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Steps To A Solid Finish?

rgand

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I've been contemplating the idea of doing a scratch build. Years ago I scratch built an electric mandolin and rattle-canned it black. It came out OK but it wasn't what I'd call a super fine finish. I'm thinking of a simple solid color. If I decide to do this, I want it to be something that looks good and is durable.

Exactly what are the steps to take to get a professional-looking finish? And what kind of paint is best for a novice like myself?
 
Amateurs can get excellent professional results from lacquer without a great deal of investment. For appearance and durability, nothing else comes close other than polyurethane, which actually exceeds it but is difficult to do well without good equipment and controlled environments. All the various polymerized oils can be made to look good, but it's not a trivial task and isn't durable enough for a guitar, at least not in my opinion. On the plus side, they're inexpensive and easy to apply even indoors. But, you'll notice no professional/commercial instruments come with it.

The whole trick to lacquer is time and patience. There's no shortcutting the process without subsequent evidence that's often quite obvious. But, if you follow the rules, you can get something that'll rival anything you'll see hanging in a showroom.

Be aware that a DIY finish is not really much of a money saver, per se. Counting filler, sandpaper, dyes/pigments, sealer, reducer and the lacquer itself, you can easily have $75-$100 into one by the time you're done, and at minimum wage you'd need to be able to pull it off in less than 20 hours to break even, spread out across about 4 to 6 weeks. Unless you already have a body that's still in the raw, you're usually much better off letting the supplier finish it. In Warmoth's case, for instance, they charge roughly between $200-$250, which seems like a lot but it's a catalyzed polyurethane finish that's perfect in every way. It really does not get any better than that, and you'll never get that same job for less anywhere else. It really is a bargain, but they're set up for it. Few others are.

I know it sounds like I'm trying to talk you out of it, but I'm not. Doing your own finish is a very satisfying thing, and it'll keep you off the streets and away from the TV. I'm just warning you about the reality of it.

There's a ton of information in written and video form on the 'net, but the single most useful article I've ever read on it is at Luthier's Mercantile. Follow their schedule/recipe (pay attention to the material instead of brand names; there's blatant product placement) and you almost can't fail.

I ended up with this finish on the L5S in my sig right in my garage - the only "special" thing I used was a relatively inexpensive HVLP sprayer...

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For a single finish, it might not worth buying the sprayer, but you'll get better results and materials will cost less. For what pro finishes cost, it'll pay for itself in 2 finishes. Faster still if you use it for other things, which you can easily do. It's possible to shoot heavier material than lacquer, so you can shoot latex in the house, sealer/stain on decks/fences, etc.
 
Cagey, I have to ask. Have any of your neighbours brought home a strange looking fella with scissors for hands lately? All your photos have such beautiful lawns in the background.
 
Hehe! No, it's just that this is lower Michigan and our weather is ideal for such things. The winter is harsh but relatively short, and outside of a month or two during the summer, the weather is usually pretty moderate. Not too hot, not too wet or dry, not too sunny or cloudy. Plus, this is a private condominium complex, so it's pretty deliberately well-maintained. We have groundskeepers who spread/spray various chemical concoctions on everything to kill weeds/bugs and fertilize the desirable vegetation, automatic sprinklers to keep everything properly hydrated, everything is cut/trimmed on a regular schedule, etc.

 
Thanks for the great information. That Luthier's Mercantile article was really thorough. I figured there would be some things to address. With like with the farmlands nearby, there's always dust or pollen in the air and it gets blown under the garage doors. I can see a ventilated booth would be a necessary. I'll give this some thought. I may need to take it somewhere to be professionally shot if I can't figure something out here. This is all part of the planning process so I don't get into the project unaware.

I have an idea of what I want but it would require me to get some wood or a blank and fire up my router. Again, nothing too difficult there but the finish can make it look like a fine instrument or a POS. Many thanks for the great direction, Kevin. We'll see how this goes.
 
One nice thing with lacquer is the stuff dries really fast so the possibility of surface contamination is pretty low. Then, if it does occur it's generally eliminated right away because you're sanding between coats. Contaminants don't get a chance to become embedded. Not saying it can't happen, but it might not be as big an issue as you'd imagine. Depends on where you're at and what's going on. If it's always breezy and the air is always dusty, then maybe be concerned. My garage isn't ventilated so I shoot with the bay door open (acetone vapor is highly combustible) and I don't have a problem.

If it seems too risky overall, Tonar does excellent finishes very reasonably. I've seen his stuff in real life, and it's stellar. Like getting a Warmoth finish, only it's nitro instead of poly.
 
Cagey said:
If it seems too risky overall, Tonar does excellent finishes very reasonably. I've seen his stuff in real life, and it's stellar. Like getting a Warmoth finish, only it's nitro instead of poly.
That's a possibility. I would have to do it with the door closed and that brings its own set of problems into the equation.
 
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