So what would this sound like?
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Cagey
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.022µF capacitor, not .047µF. The larger cap presents a range that's outside of useful and makes small adjustments have large effects.
Neck profiles are personal preference. Myself, I prefer the "Standard Thin", which isn't particularly thin. It's roughly equivalent to a Fender American Standard. Some people like them a bit thinner or thicker, or with different shapes to the profile. I just happen to be used to the standard thin, so that's me. You can get used to anything, although some complain about cramps from necks that are too thin, too thick, or too lopsided. In my experience, cramps come from inadequate practice, not neck profiles. Don't use a muscle a certain way very often, it's going to complain when you do.
Neck profiles are personal preference. Myself, I prefer the "Standard Thin", which isn't particularly thin. It's roughly equivalent to a Fender American Standard. Some people like them a bit thinner or thicker, or with different shapes to the profile. I just happen to be used to the standard thin, so that's me. You can get used to anything, although some complain about cramps from necks that are too thin, too thick, or too lopsided. In my experience, cramps come from inadequate practice, not neck profiles. Don't use a muscle a certain way very often, it's going to complain when you do.
bagman67
Epic Member
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I have two standard thin necks in service right now, and one boatneck. They are very different from each other, but both are quite serviceable. My guess is the Ricky you played is gonna be closer to the Standard Thin than to the Boatneck, which really is quite a thick slab of lumber.
I'm learning so much. Cool. What I liked about the Rickenbacker I played, and maybe it was just that particular one, but the neck felt kind of U-shaped, a little thicker than a Les Paul I used to have that had a supposed "50s style" neck. I certainly like the idea of a thicker neck than normal. I've played a number of Standards, American Standards, and one Baja and if memory serves I liked the Baja neck the most.
So here's a rejiggered parts list.
Body
Warmoth: Chambered alder body with alder top, front rout, tummy cut, 7/8" jack rout, vintage Tele bridge holes. $287 for body + ($185 for alpine white or gloss black) or ($210 for Lake Placid Blue) + shipping
Guard
Warmoth vintage 5-hole pick guard, Tele neck rout with holes. $25 for gloss black or white.
Strap buttons
Warmoth: Standard strap buttons, chrome. $3 + shipping.
String ferrules
Warmoth: Chrome ferrules, $0.84 X 6 ($5.04) + shipping.
Neck plate
Warmoth: Chrome neck plate, $5 + $2.60 for 4 screws + shipping.
Tuners
Gotoh vintage tuners, 11/32". $35 + shipping.
Jack plate
Warmoth: Chrome Electrosocket with Switchcraft jack, $12 + shipping.
Neck
Warmoth: One piece maple neck. 1-11/16" nut, right handed, white Graphtech Tusq XL. 21 frets. 9.5" radius. Boatneck profile. Stainless steel medium jumbo frets (6105?). 11/32" tuner holes. Clear gloss: $327. Vintage tint gloss: $347. + shipping.
Bridge
Callaham bridge: Vintage T bridge with three brass enhanced vintage compensated saddles. $125 + shipping.
Control assembly
Warmoth: Chrome control plate, $12 + 500K pots by CTS ($5 X 2) + 0.022uf capacitor ($0.50) + Chrome flat top knob ($4.25 X 2) + CRL 3-way blade switch ($14) + Tele switch knob, black ($1.50) = $46.50 + shipping
Pickups
Bill & Becky Lawrence Wilde Keystone Deluxe T set, $72 + shipping.
Strings
Dunlop: 9-42 nickel plated, $5.99 + tax.
Total (white or black body, clear gloss neck): $1136.13 + shipping/tax
Add $25 for Lake Placid blue, add $20 for vintage gloss neck.
One thing I'm starting to get curious about - the contoured heel. I'm just wondering on if the screws would bother me. I assume that the four bolt holes are all straight through the neck, so if the screws go in straight then two of them will have a slight lip where the straight screw head meets the angled plate. True? Bothersome?
So here's a rejiggered parts list.
Body
Warmoth: Chambered alder body with alder top, front rout, tummy cut, 7/8" jack rout, vintage Tele bridge holes. $287 for body + ($185 for alpine white or gloss black) or ($210 for Lake Placid Blue) + shipping
Guard
Warmoth vintage 5-hole pick guard, Tele neck rout with holes. $25 for gloss black or white.
Strap buttons
Warmoth: Standard strap buttons, chrome. $3 + shipping.
String ferrules
Warmoth: Chrome ferrules, $0.84 X 6 ($5.04) + shipping.
Neck plate
Warmoth: Chrome neck plate, $5 + $2.60 for 4 screws + shipping.
Tuners
Gotoh vintage tuners, 11/32". $35 + shipping.
Jack plate
Warmoth: Chrome Electrosocket with Switchcraft jack, $12 + shipping.
Neck
Warmoth: One piece maple neck. 1-11/16" nut, right handed, white Graphtech Tusq XL. 21 frets. 9.5" radius. Boatneck profile. Stainless steel medium jumbo frets (6105?). 11/32" tuner holes. Clear gloss: $327. Vintage tint gloss: $347. + shipping.
Bridge
Callaham bridge: Vintage T bridge with three brass enhanced vintage compensated saddles. $125 + shipping.
Control assembly
Warmoth: Chrome control plate, $12 + 500K pots by CTS ($5 X 2) + 0.022uf capacitor ($0.50) + Chrome flat top knob ($4.25 X 2) + CRL 3-way blade switch ($14) + Tele switch knob, black ($1.50) = $46.50 + shipping
Pickups
Bill & Becky Lawrence Wilde Keystone Deluxe T set, $72 + shipping.
Strings
Dunlop: 9-42 nickel plated, $5.99 + tax.
Total (white or black body, clear gloss neck): $1136.13 + shipping/tax
Add $25 for Lake Placid blue, add $20 for vintage gloss neck.
One thing I'm starting to get curious about - the contoured heel. I'm just wondering on if the screws would bother me. I assume that the four bolt holes are all straight through the neck, so if the screws go in straight then two of them will have a slight lip where the straight screw head meets the angled plate. True? Bothersome?
Great Ape
Hero Member
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If you want ''medium jumbo'' frets, better go with 6150; the 6105s are more like Fender's vintage wire, which is considerably thinner than medium jumbo...best of luck, and have fun with the project--you'll have yourself a very cool, totally personalized guitar!!
Cagey
Mythical Status
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I agree with The Great Ape: vintage frets make baby Jesus cry. Make 'em as big as you dare. You won't be sorry. Lot more control.
Also, I'd recommend the Gotoh Tele bridge w/ Graphtech saddles over the Callaham. This unit...
...is only $44 from Warmoth, and a set of Graphtechs for it...
...at $45 from StewMac puts you at $89 all told, and you'll actually be able to adjust your intonation accurately, rather than just getting it close. Plus, you save $35. THAT'S ALMOST 2 CASES OF BEER!
Also, I'd recommend the Gotoh Tele bridge w/ Graphtech saddles over the Callaham. This unit...
...is only $44 from Warmoth, and a set of Graphtechs for it...
...at $45 from StewMac puts you at $89 all told, and you'll actually be able to adjust your intonation accurately, rather than just getting it close. Plus, you save $35. THAT'S ALMOST 2 CASES OF BEER!
Hey, whatever fret size Fender uses on the Standard Tele is fine by me. I had an American Special Strat with the jumbos, and those were way too dang big. And as archaic as it may be, I've got a soft spot for the 3-barrel bridge. I'm still on the fence between making this guitar and just straight up buying a Rickenbacker 330. Odd choice to make, huh?
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