Sitar like Buzzing on High E String...

wolf

Junior Member
Messages
78
Hi!

I have a problem with my new neck.
The high E string buzz when played open. When I fret it the buzz vanish.

I adjust the neck so now it have only a little relief, but my suspect goes to the nut.

I have a corian nut installed by Warmoth, and I use 0.10-0.50 strings.

The action at the nut seems ok.
I use a callaham bridge.

Any hints?
 
I almost solved the problem rounding the edge on the end of the slot.


ps  http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=7973.0  this guy had the same problem, solved cleaning the slot.

 
Sounds like your on the right track. I am having the same issue. I thought at first I didn't put the string tree close enough, but it turns out the high E string is just being pinched in the nut. Just a little sanding and it should go away.

It sounds like yours is on a Tele. That's where mine is. Hmmm I wonder if W has different setups for these, I would doubt they would.
 
I had same issue.  loosen the string, take a small blade and try to remove some material...not much.  Sting up and see if resolved.  Repeat if necessary.
 
You might wanna invest in a good set of nut files.  They make life a bit more pleasant!~  Learning how to fix, adjust, correct, and set-up a nut is something within the skill level of most people - ESPECIALLY when doing the final setup on a Warmoth cut nut.

Frank Ford has a GREAT nut filing tutorial over on his www.frets.com website.  I've used a bunch of different nut slot files... they all have good and bad points.  I like the big rigid ones for the E and A, and then the smaller flex files on the D, G, B and E. 

Frank tends to be a real stickler on filing slots only a few thousandths wider than the string, but you can go a little wider on the larger strings, which grow considerably if you ever change gauges.  Make sure your files are nice round bottom ones.  Thats about it really... just go slow.
 
=CB= said:
You might wanna invest in a good set of nut files.  They make life a bit more pleasant!~  Learning how to fix, adjust, correct, and set-up a nut is something within the skill level of most people - ESPECIALLY when doing the final setup on a Warmoth cut nut.

Frank Ford has a GREAT nut filing tutorial over on his www.frets.com website.  I've used a bunch of different nut slot files... they all have good and bad points.  I like the big rigid ones for the E and A, and then the smaller flex files on the D, G, B and E. 

Frank tends to be a real stickler on filing slots only a few thousandths wider than the string, but you can go a little wider on the larger strings, which grow considerably if you ever change gauges.  Make sure your files are nice round bottom ones.  Thats about it really... just go slow.

Indeed I spent a lot of time on stewmac site. I found this: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Nuts_and_saddles/Gauged_Nut_Slotting_Files.html
and I'm considering it (including some other tool like this http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Neck,_fingerboard/Basic_Setup_Kit.html).
 
The files warmoth sells are just as good and far cheaper than the stew mac ones. Get all 8 that warmoth sells, for setting up a guitar they are extremely useful.
 
Frikkin EIGHTY SIX DOLLARS for a "set up" kit??????

Ya dont need a custom straight-edge.  You dont need the fancy ruler.  You dont need the nifto radius gauges.

You need a machinists ruler (Sears Craftsman, about $7), and if you're over 30, you need an eyeloup (camera stores, about $10 for a cheapie).

Those guys make me laugh at how they continually find solutions for problems that dont exist.
 
I bought an excellent set of nut cutters off the evilbay made by a guy in Texas.Theyre feeler guage size and his system covers most aspects of a setup,not expensive either.
Really impressed,I just turned my two good playing W necks into GREAT players!

Not affiliated in any way,just thought I`d pass useful info on to fellow Warmothaholics!!!
 
=CB= said:
Frikkin EIGHTY SIX DOLLARS for a "set up" kit??????

Ya dont need a custom straight-edge.  You dont need the fancy ruler.  You dont need the nifto radius gauges.

You need a machinists ruler (Sears Craftsman, about $7), and if you're over 30, you need an eyeloup (camera stores, about $10 for a cheapie).

Those guys make me laugh at how they continually find solutions for problems that dont exist.

86 dollars doesn't seem outragous this day and age. but yer right. why use a radius gage if you can measure string height individually? you can get a strait edge anywhere. if you need radius gages for speed you probably have the skills to make them.
 
Dan025 said:
=CB= said:
Frikkin EIGHTY SIX DOLLARS for a "set up" kit??????

Ya dont need a custom straight-edge.  You dont need the fancy ruler.  You dont need the nifto radius gauges.

You need a machinists ruler (Sears Craftsman, about $7), and if you're over 30, you need an eyeloup (camera stores, about $10 for a cheapie).

Those guys make me laugh at how they continually find solutions for problems that dont exist.

86 dollars doesn't seem outragous this day and age. but yer right. why use a radius gage if you can measure string height individually? you can get a strait edge anywhere. if you need radius gages for speed you probably have the skills to make them.

Damn straight.
 
=CB= said:
You might wanna invest in a good set of nut files.  They make life a bit more pleasant!~  Learning how to fix, adjust, correct, and set-up a nut is something within the skill level of most people - ESPECIALLY when doing the final setup on a Warmoth cut nut.

Frank Ford has a GREAT nut filing tutorial over on his www.frets.com website.  I've used a bunch of different nut slot files... they all have good and bad points.  I like the big rigid ones for the E and A, and then the smaller flex files on the D, G, B and E. 

Frank tends to be a real stickler on filing slots only a few thousandths wider than the string, but you can go a little wider on the larger strings, which grow considerably if you ever change gauges.  Make sure your files are nice round bottom ones.  Thats about it really... just go slow.

Agreed.  Your nut slots need to be re dressed.  As long as you have proper string tension pulling the string down on the nut, That should fix your buzzing troubles.  The space between the first fret and the bottom of the low E string should be about .025" and should decrease by .002" every string until you get to the high e string at which point the action should be about .015".    When you go to re dress your nut slots, remember to follow the angle of the strings so that the last contact point of the string to the nut is at the front of the nut.  That way you will have an easier time setting the intonation.  I bought my nut slot files at stewmac.com
 
Hey thanks for offering some numbers so that a person can use feeler gauges to make an accurate assessment rather than winging it.  BTW do you remember where you got those numbers from?  Does anyone have any books they can recommend that would include such tolerances?  I'll definitely check out the Frank Ford site; thanks.
 
The EASY way

**** from www.frets.com ***
If the nut is too low, the string will bump into the first fret when it is played and it will "buzz," even if the rest of the instrument is properly set up and working well.
If the nut is too high, playing at the first fret will be seriously impaired. I frequently see guitar on which it is impossible to bar a first position "F" chord because the nut is way too high. This is extremely common because most new instruments only receive a cursory "set up" at the factory. We hope (sometimes in vain) that the more expensive instruments won't have this problem.
Is there an ideal height? In theory, yes. The ideal height would be just about the same as a fret's height in the same position as the nut. In practice, I've found that there are some musicians whose playing attack is so vigorous that they require the nut to be higher to avoid the open string buzz.
Can I check my own nut action?
Easy! Here's how. . .
With the guitar, banjo, mandolin or any other fretted instrument tuned to pitch:
First, grab the neck and mash down on the string just in front of the nut.
mash.JPG

Pretend your thumb is a capo, and just squeeze down. Don't give it the King Kong grip, though. The idea is to avoid having the string elevated artificially, as it is when first put on. A string that has never been fretted strongly at the first fret tends to stand just a little high. I'm only talking about the stiffer bass strings because they seem to have minds of their own.
This is just a preliminary exercise, and is only a minor precaution.
Here's the real stuff:
Press the string in question down between the second and third frets:
press.JPG

The string is at full tension and it strikes a straight line from the nut to the second fret. There's no need for a straightedge here, the string is straight!
Get down and look CLOSELY under the string above the first fret. It pays to be nearsighted. For the unfortunate non-myopic, magnifying reading glasses may be necessary.
If the nut is at its ideal height, you should see a very tiny space between the string and the first fret:
6th1.JPG

How much space? Well, it varies with need, but generally, I like to see just enough space to tell there is any at all. I'm talking the thickness of a hair! Notice the string in this picture, IT IS CLOSE. This guitar plays well for the average musician.
Here's the first string:
1st.JPG

If there IS a gap that's too small to see, you'll hear a little click as the string hits the frets. Cute trick, eh?
tap.JPG

Bear in mind that nothing is absolute when it comes to instrument set up. It is, after all, a matter of adjusting instruments to the player's needs. Action at the nut is one of the more easily described and yet more overlooked aspects of set up.

**********************
Remember, you want a break angle, then a bit more of an angle (relief) toward the posts.  The break angles should all be the same.  The releif angles can vary with the angle of the string to the post.  Anyone wanting to learn how to set up a nut should saunter on over to www.frets.com and read the several good pages on the subject.

 
zogoibi said:
Hey thanks for offering some numbers so that a person can use feeler gauges to make an accurate assessment rather than winging it.  BTW do you remember where you got those numbers from?  Does anyone have any books they can recommend that would include such tolerances?  I'll definitely check out the Frank Ford site; thanks.

Got em' from the the fender rep for our store.  He gave us a piece of paper with all the measurements for each guitar that the Fender company produced (jackson charvelle gretch fender etc.) on it and what I threw up on the thread was just an average of those measurements.  Each guitar will actually have different allowances for each adjustment.
 
This is some excellent info.  Thanks for your generous contributions.  I can't wait to give my nuts a proper grooming.
 
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