Satin clear to seal waterslide decal on satin clear nitro maple headstock

Indianrock

New member
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8
Which clear coat spray to use?  I've had my Warmoth maple strat neck with clear satin nitro finish for several years with just a blank headstock.  I've now applied a quality waterslide decal and want to spray over with a very light coat of clear satin just to make sure it stays put ( not concerned with decal edges as they're already nearly invisible).  This is a partscaster so not worried about vintage or other resale considerations.

 

Rick

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Oops ... Read terms of service on counterfiting.  I think the pic is over the line.
 

stratamania

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9,204
The guidelines being referred to are:

* Counterfeiting. Do not post content that facilitates counterfeiting. This includes links to other sites. For example, posting instructions on how to affix Fender decals to non-Fender guitars is forbidden. It does not matter whether it is being done for profit or personal use.
https://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=26498.0

It is something that is not discussed on this forum.
 

Indianrock

New member
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8
I've removed photos etc.  Just looking for clear satin spray suggestions on said neck to lightly seal a waterslide decal.
 

Indianrock

New member
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8
Looking at clear satin acrylic lacquers, how low does humidity have to be before spraying?  We're not getting below about 58% these days.
 

TBurst Std

Senior member
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2,591
58% with a blush reducer should work.  Your other choice is to wait for below 40% -45% OR get a controlled environment
 

Indianrock

New member
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8
Blush reducer is something you can use with an aerosol spray?
I Checked with krylon support... they told me ideally humidity should be below 50% to spray something like clear satin but where I live we won't see that for a few months The downside they said is longer drying time and potentially a slightly different final appearance.
 

Rick

Senior member
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4,311
Since you’re just doing the headstock you could make a booth in the basement out of cardboard, actually just a backdrop and turn on a dehumidifier.
 

TBurst Std

Senior member
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2,591
Indianrock said:
Blush reducer is something you can use with an aerosol spray?
I Checked with krylon support... they told me ideally humidity should be below 50% to spray something like clear satin but where I live we won't see that for a few months The downside they said is longer drying time and potentially a slightly different final appearance.
Ahh missed you were using a can.
 

Indianrock

New member
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8
I checked with my local luthier and he said he's no longer using sprays, preferring to finish guitars he builds with shellac ( brushed on I presume). Not sure if this is a toxicity concern or environmental concern or both.    I may look up the humidity requirements for shellac -- of course if it's brushed on you have to have to be pretty good at it to avoid leaving brush marks.
Doesn't have to be perfect.  People are paying good money for "relic" guitars with fake wear.
If it looks normal from 10 feet away I'm good.
 

DuckBaloo

Senior member
Messages
281
Solvent-base acrylic lacquer should be able to be shot over nitro, but probably not water-based.

Since you aren’t buffing, you can shoot 3 coats  of nitro in a day and be done. Just buy a can of Mohawk or Stewmac satin nitro and wait until the humidity breaks or Autumn. 

If you rush a finishing job, there is a good chance it will come back to haunt you. Do it right and it’ll last your lifetime. I know the frustration with humidity, I spray April-June and Oct-Dec, everything waits until those periods or rare exceptional days in-between.

Trivia: Back in Leo’s day, they didn’t spray over the decal. That was something CBS started after switching to urethane clear.
 

jay4321

Senior member
Messages
1,278
All you need is a can of Minwax lacquer, gloss, black rattle can, and spray on days under 50% humidity (and don't leave out overnight). Done it a million times. You can get into blush eraser if you're rushing and trying to spray on higher humidity days but that's more cost and more potential problems.

So despite wanting satin I'm suggesting the gloss lacquer. Why? Because you can polish it to a satin point, and without unnecessary solids added like in the semigloss and satin varieties. More or less, wet sand/sand to the point you want and stop, you're not going to "accidentally" get a showroom high-buffed shine by accident. I've found this stuff for as little as $6 in Lowes but that was a while ago. Amazon usually has in stock

https://www.amazon.com/Minwax-15200-Brushing-Lacquer-12-25-Ounce/dp/B0002YOPOG/ref=asc_df_B0002YOPOG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193184886406&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11420564240574443059&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007455&hvtargid=pla-332269640634&psc=1

I go about 2 coats/day 8 total (each coat a couple passes). First coat nice and easy. That's enough for you to gently sand level if you're not heavy handed but I would start no higher than 800 grit.

Do NOT spray in the house. There are tons of other options low VOC if you want but lacquer, nope. Not even a little for a headstock, don't ask how I know I just know
 
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