Removing Tru-oil

[ildar]

I grabbed a soloist body from the 'bay, I'm pretty sure it's been Tru-oiled. I want to get rid of that and go nitro. What's the best way to do so?

 

[Rickgrxbass]

I just sanded it, came off pretty easy.  Get some 3M sandblaster paper and have at it.

Wait, you do mean Tru-oil, not tung oil, right??

 

[ildar]

Yeah, it's definitely not tung.
Didn't know if there was some other way I should know about.

A futher question: must it be removed, or can I prime it over with shellac, then shoot the lacquer?

 

[m4rk0]

interesting question... I would like to know too..
I have a tru oiled body, and want to stain it in a darker color..
can I stain over the true oil, and then add another coat of oil?

 

[Rickgrxbass]

If you're shooting over it, I'd imagine you can just leave it be, maybe scuff it with some 320 grit paper so the new finish has something better to stick to.  I wouldn't bother with the shellac, you've already got a substantial base on there.

M4rk0, you'll have to sand back to wood to stain.

Remember, guys, Tru-oil = varnish.  it does penetrate a little better than, say, Valspar or Minwax, just enough to get a better prismatic effect on the grain, but it polymerizes and hardens like any other varnish.

 

[jmohil]

I'm kind of in the same boat...on my first warmoth build I used tru-oil, but the finish is just beat to hell now so I'm contemplating stripping it and redoing in tung oil (which I should be able to repair as I go).  Is sanding the only way to go for a thick tru oil finish?  I put a million coats on this thing and I think it would probably take me a month to sand it all off.  Are there any chemical compounds I could let it marinate in that would speed up the process?  Sorry in advance if there's an easy answer to the "chemical stripping of a varnish product" question....I'm totally clueless on the removal aspects of any kind of finish.

 

[-CB-]

The problem.....

The varnish may just melt, when lacquer is applied.  Lacquer solvents (acetone mostly) will soften, craze and melt varnishes.

The solution.....

Get some acetone at Home Depot.  Dont get lacquer thinner.. just plain acetone.  Wash the body with it.  Just have at it.... in a very short time, you'll know if what you have is compatible.  Makes no difference - if it IS - then you got a nice clean and degreased body on which to nitro - if it ISN'T - then you have begun a stripping process that you'll need to do.

Since "oil" finish is seldom fully leveled, you might just want to sand first, wash with acetone, then fill remaining grain and pores.  Level that with 320.  It would be a good idea to hit it with two coats of shellac under nitro, sand back the shellac very lightly... 400 grit just to level it out and give the lacquer a nice smooth surface.  Shellac will provide a barrier between the underlying finish and the nitro, but if the existing finish is not nitro safe, its best to acetone it and shellac it.  I'd trust shellac over a decal or sharpie signature to be a good barrier.  But over an entire body... there's bound to be a place that you missed, or was thin, or had a hole in it... so acetone it first, then shellac.

Shellactoids:
Shellac is a really interesting thing to work with.  It sticks to damn near everything with even the littlest bit of tooth.  So, it wont stick to polished (clear) glass, or chrome, but will stick to frosted glass and aluminum, and unfinished steel, etc.    Ya ever want to paint in a place that was smokey?  Give it two coats of shellac over the existing smokey paint, and then paint normally.  Assuming the carpet was changed.... you'll have zero odor, as it provides a near perfect barrier to the underlying stench.  Paint a metal door... like an aluminum or prefinished steel door?  Shellac it first.  Give it two coats or three even, then paint away.  Just amazing stuff. 

So, shellac is both cheap and effective in this instance - but the real thoughts should be regarding the pores, and compatibility with nitro.   

 

[ildar]

Shellactoids:
Shellac is a really interesting thing to work with.  It sticks to damn near everything with even the littlest bit of tooth.  So, it wont stick to polished (clear) glass, or chrome, but will stick to frosted glass and aluminum, and unfinished steel, etc.    Ya ever want to paint in a place that was smokey?   Give it two coats of shellac over the existing smokey paint, and then paint normally.  Assuming the carpet was changed.... you'll have zero odor, as it provides a near perfect barrier to the underlying stench.   Paint a metal door... like an aluminum or prefinished steel door?  Shellac it first.  Give it two coats or three even, then paint away.   Just amazing stuff.  

As always, thanks for your help, CB. As far as knowing the wonders of shellac, I'm well versed. I'm a painting contractor by day.  :icon_thumright:
It is great stuff.
One fact about shellac I always found interesting-shellac is what lends sheen level (gloss) to latex paints. Don't know why, I just think that's cool, somewhat counter-intuitive.

 

[-CB-]

shellactoids = when finishing is a pita

 

[Rickgrxbass]

Thanks CB.  From now on I'll defer finish questions to someone who knows what the hell they're talking about  :toothy11:

 

[-CB-]

Dont mind me.

Hey, also bro, no offense - and what you said MIGHT be ok.  <--- key word "might"

I just... well I got carried away (as usual).  One thousand pardons please (for all my associates in the slammer...)

 

[Rickgrxbass]

Hey, none taken.  If it were my guitar and I melted the varnish I probably would've said "DEAR LORD NOT AGAIN" before realizing I wasn't on an acid trip  :toothy12: