Removing pickguard from a warmoth strat

[eiopago47]

Hi,

I haven't tried yet and I thought about asking first.

Differently to a Fender strat, a warmoth neck fretboard extends over the pickguard. Does it mean I would need to remove the neck to be able to remove the pickguard?

Thanks in advance

 

[mayfly]

Yep.  Especially if you've got a neck pickup installed.

 

[Cagey]

Right. Not all, but most traditional Strats/Teles only had 21 frets, while popular demand had Warmoth necks being built since forever with 22. That extra fret needs an overhanging fretboard in order to make everything work out, which means getting the pickguard on/off involves removing the neck. It's no biggie - have to undo an extra 4 screws is all. Actually makes working on either the neck or body a lot easier.

 

[rolloman]

Put a capo's or masking tape around the strings and neck at the second and 12 frets to keep the strings in place. Loosen the tuning keys a little bit. Remove the tremolo springs which will release all the string pressure. Remove the neck screws and flip the neck end to end keeping all the strings intact to the headstock and the bridge. This will expose the entire pickguard for you to work on.

 

[Verne Bunsen]

This is a nice advantage of locking tuners as well, just de-tune till the strings are fully slack and you can pull the neck and everything stays put.

 

[rolloman]

Also, when you are finished, put the neck back into place and just snug the screws up firm but not tight. Put the tremolo springs back on. Tighten the 1st and 6th strings both just tight enough that you know there is no slack in them. Eyeball at the 22nd fret the distance from each of these strings to their corresponding side edge of the fretboard. Gently grab the neck and push it from side to side to achieve equidistance from them to each edge of the fretboard.Then finish tightening the neck screws.

 

[eiopago47]

This confirms what I thought, removing the neck is necessary and it sucks because when I installed the neck I must have tightened the screws so hard that I stripped the phillips head.

If I manage to get them out where can I buy some replacements?

 

[Cagey]

Anywhere. They're #8 x 1 3/4" Phillips oval head wood screws. If you have a contoured heel on the body, two of the screws will be #8 x 1 1/2".

 

[rolloman]

If you buy local and not from Warmoth it will probably be difficult to find nickel plated ones, so the best option is stainless steel ones that will be at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, etc. Next time put a little beeswax or candle wax on the threads. Search for a screwdriver size that fits tight without any movement or slop in the phillips head. Usually easiest to find if you have the type that uses all the replaceable bits that readily available in the different sizes without having to buy a new screwdriver. Get someone to help you by putting lots of downward pressure on the handle while you slowly try to turn the handle. Also lay some rags around the plate and body with a tupperware lid etc. over the area in case you happen to slip you don't want a scratch or dent in the guitar body. If all else fails there are different tools and procedures to get it out, but try this first. The downward pressure is very needed though. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[Cagey]

Incidentally, it's a #2 Phillips screwdriver. The size is usually marked on the handle. Be sure the screwdriver itself hasn't had its tip damaged from wear or abuse, or you'll just tear up the new screws.

A new/good #2 Phillips might even make it easier to get out the existing screws. Don't buy a cheapie from Ace hardware or someplace careless like that, try to find a Kmart or Sears and get at least a Craftsman. They're not expensive, but they're pretty good tools. Actually, you can get a whole set like this...

...for $26 from Sears online. That'll include every driver you'll ever need for working on guitars (and other stuff) plus a few, and they're pretty robust tools. Helluva deal, really.

 

[rgand]

In addition to what Kevin and James have posted, another thing that helps with removing questionable screws is to use a longer screwdriver of the right size. I'm not sure but I think it has to do with how it delivers the torque when you twist it. You certainly have more control. Also, slightly stripped screws come out better if you put a tiny bit of valve grinding compound on the tip so it has more bite in the screw head. Careful you don't get that stuff on the finish or neck plate, though.