Refinishing Warmoth Mahgony body

[DarkPenguin]

So an incident occurred why trying to fix a spot on my warmoth strat body. This ended with me sanding all the finish off the body. I've sanded through the pore filler on the sides, I think. My question is what do I use for this that matches what warmoth uses? I actually like the hunk of wood under all this and am trying to figure out how to do this the easiest way.

I intend to fill the pores, sand appropriately and use 9,345 coats of thinned wipe on poly.

Thots?

(This isn't taking the place of the tele build; just fixing stupidity.)

 

[Cagey]

I'm not sure what Warmoth uses, and they won't say. They've been asked numerous times over the years and the answer is always "go scratch glass and turn blue", or words to that effect.

I suspect what they use is some sort of clear spray-on self-levelling polyester filler that's not generally available to us regular folks. I can't imagine they do the tedious fill/sand routine your average DIY guy does. It would be cost/time prohibitive.

The usual instrument builder suppliers wanna sell you something tinted, or "neutral" at best. An alternative filler I've found but haven't tried yet is called "Crystalac" It's supposed to be water clear, so you don't know it's there other than your wood is now smooth instead of textured. From the description, it sounds like the perfect thing for woods that are inherently beautiful like Mahogany. My only concern is they say it's "environmentally safe", which is usually code for "doesn't work worth a damn". But, who knows? One of these days, probably this summer on a Swamp Ash body I have, I'm gonna try it.

 

[rgand]

My only concern is they say it's "environmentally safe", which is usually code for "doesn't work worth a damn".

:laughing11: :icon_thumright:

 

[Steve_Karl]

Minwax Satin wipe-on poly works well for me.
6 coats was enough for my last mahogany body.
The filling part wasn't easy but I started from scratch.

 

[dmraco]

shellac

 

[DarkPenguin]

Thanks for the tips. I'm not sure about the environmentally friendly bit. I tried some kinder/gentler stripper on the paint and it did absolutely nothing.

Shellac to seal or for the finished instrument?

Wipe on poly has been great for me. Only concern has been my patience.

 

[Cagey]

"Kinder, gentler" stipper is an absolute waste of money, unless you need to strip dust or watercolors off of glass. Somebody ougha to sue them for fraud.

As for the filler, I think they call it "environmentally safe" because it's water-based rather than solvent base. As if water isn't a solvent. I imagine it still works ok, but as I said, I haven't tried it yet. When I do, I'll be on some scrap first so I can see if the acetone in lacquer is going to dissolve it. Most of the reducers used in other finishes aren't nearly as aggressive.

 

[bagman67]

In defense of environmentally safe fillers, Timbermate works just fine for me.  It appears to be neutral or pigmented kaolin clay, which has a very fine particle size, suspended in good ol' tap water.  It is opaque.  I have had good luck tinting it with universal pigments such as Mixol.  I have filled two mahogany bodies and two ash bodies with neutral Timbermate tinted with black Mixol and I have liked the contrast very well.

No opinion regarding Crystalac but I've seen it praised in some fine woodworking and guitar building fora.

Peace

Bagman

 

[Frankencat]

Citristrip works fine on lacquer.