Recommend a good dual range solder station

[TBurst Std]

My current dual range soldering station was never that great, and now a decade later is starting to lack. Being that I also need to replace the tip, but there are none as the mfg is no longer in business, I am looking for suggestions. $75 tops preferably.

 

[Verne Bunsen]

I use a Weller WLC100 with a couple of different chisel tips. It isn't dual range, but it's adjustable from 5w to 40w which will handle anything a guitar will throw at you. I've had mine for, geez, 8 or 10 years, bullet proof. Set you back about $50. There might be better ones out there for the price, but I haven't shopped around in years 'cause... I haven't needed to!

http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458514260&sr=8-1&keywords=weller+wlc100

 

[Cagey]

Parts Express sells a unit by Stahl that looks identical to the Weller WLC100 Verne uses, but it's only $20. I have one of those, and it works well for most stuff.  Unfortunately, if you're in a hurry, you'll have to wait a bit. they're out of stock until mid-April.

For heavier work such as soldering ground wires to trem claws and such, I prefer the American Beauty Model 3112-40. It's also a 40 watt unit, much simpler, but for some reason it just seems to work better. It's getting to the point where I use it for nearly everything as I've never found the variable output feature of the Stahl's (or any other) unit to be of any value. I find it's actually better to have two irons with different tips that are suited to task rather than one with a variable temperature. An American Beauty may well be the last iron you ever buy - they're designed to last forever in a production environment, and they sell renewal parts for them. But, they're pricey little rascals. This one is $80.

 

[TBurst Std]

Well if I hear a reply that is there a 2nd cold solder joint , then I will bring out the 120 Welller gun. Just never ran into this issue which seems to me to be trem claw related. 

 

[Verne Bunsen]

Be wary with a soldering gun, the transformer can degauss your pickups!

http://www.seymourduncan.com/blog/swd-qa/can-a-large-weller-or-other-soldering-gun-effect-the-sound-a-pickup

 

[mayfly]

I've got more than one iron - a 30 watt weller and a 60 watt weller.  Both have their place and have served me well.  Cheap (ish) too.  The 60 watter is temperature controlled.

I'd get a different iron for a different purpose.  IMHO and all that

 

[Hbom]

I bought this one a couple of months ago. Works really well. They have a several others too.
https://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi-premier-75w-Soldering-Station.html
:rock-on:

 

[Guitarsan]

After my experience with soldering during my first build, I'm seriously considering one of these. A "third" hand with a weighted base that could even sit beside an upside down guitar body and reach into the cavity and hold a wire to solder, plus the magnifying glass where needed. Anyone use one of these or have a "better" one to recommend, given my desired application that doesn't cost a fortune? (Don't mean to hijack the thread....)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171787294664

 

[Logrinn]

I bought one just like the one in the picture, but it feels flimsy and the screws are really tight and hard to adjust.
I found that if I clamped a wire or something in the crocodile clip and grabbed the soldering iron in my right hand and the solder in my left, I might need to adjust the clip. That proved almost impossible using my left hand only and required me to let go of everything, readjust to my liking and grabbing the tools to try again.
My guess is that it's a really good thing if you find a high quality version.

 

[Cagey]

As an aside to "holding wires, etc. in place", it's good to keep in mind that a good solder joint usually begins with a good mechanical joint. In other words, the solder isn't supposed to be a structural component of the joint. As much as possible, the wire/part should stay in place on its own before you try soldering it. Leads/wires should be wrapped or bent over their mating points where ever you can so there's already an electro-mechanical connection before you solder. Heat should be able to conduct between both items to be soldered so the solder can flow properly. If you get the sense that the solder is acting like a glue or caulk in/around the joint or the items are just laying against each other, then the only thing maintaining the joint will be the solder and it'll be weak. Solder is soft and somewhat friable, so it has very little structural integrity. That's the cause of many "cold" or failed joints.

 

[stratamania]

I have a helping hands like in the picture, it's quite useful but I am probably going to remove the magnifying glass as I find it easier to use my optivisor which also has lights around it.

I use it more for holding things like a Tele control plate so I've got my hands free for wiring.  +1 on mechanical joints where possible. Pre tinning and a clean tinned  iron is a good idea too.

 

[Guitarsan]

As an aside to "holding wires, etc. in place", it's good to keep in mind that a good solder joint usually begins with a good mechanical joint. In other words, the solder isn't supposed to be a structural component of the joint. As much as possible, the wire/part should stay in place on its own before you try soldering it. Leads/wires should be wrapped or bent over their mating points where ever you can so there's already an electro-mechanical connection before you solder. Heat should be able to conduct between both items to be soldered so the solder can flow properly. If you get the sense that the solder is acting like a glue or caulk in/around the joint or the items are just laying against each other, then the only thing maintaining the joint will be the solder and it'll be weak. Solder is soft and somewhat friable, so it has very little structural integrity. That's the cause of many "cold" or failed joints.

Well, I'm mostly thinking things like this:

 

[bagman67]

I bought one just like the one in the picture, but it feels flimsy and the screws are really tight and hard to adjust.

DItto.  Plus the base is not heavy enough to keep things steady.  I reckon one could screw it down to a piece of plywood or something, but if you can avoid the hassle with a better-built tool, you might as well.

 

[TBurst Std]

Well the soldering iron died.

What are your thoughts on these 2?

http://www.parts-express.com/stahl-tools-ddss-digital-display-soldering-station--374-300

http://www.parts-express.com/stahl-tools-tcss-temp-controlled-soldering-station-esd-safe--374-200

Also thinking of this as an accessory
http://www.parts-express.com/30-watt-electric-automatic-desoldering-pump-tool-with-pushbutton-action--370-325

 

[Cagey]

I would buy the second soldering iron, and get a wedge tip for it. Those pointed conical tips are right next to useless. As for the automatic de-soldering tool, I've never had good luck with those, but I didn't have that particular model. Maybe it's different.

 

[lafromla1]

Just purchased this one (60w variable temp) with the added holder and magnifying glass (which i can use for fly tying) - $28.76 for the whole thing

My son-in-law has a heavy duty one (as well as a welder), so there was no need to spend a fortune as it wont get used as much as the last one did.

http://www.amazon.com/60w-Soldering-Jewellery-Adjustable-Temperature/dp/B019590A1K/ref=sr_1_14?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1462305316&sr=1-14&keywords=soldering+iron+60w

 

[Timmsie95]

About the degaussing pickups thing,

I have a Solomon SL-30 from StewMac. Do I have to worry about degaussing with this, and how far away should I keep rhe the base from the pickups? I never even considered it before.

 

[Cagey]

No, that's a just a little iron. The ones they're cautioning you against are the big guns like this...

... that can run anywhere from 150-300 watts and up. Even then, I suspect they're erring on the side of caution rather than any real risk. Besides, if you ever used one of those it would probably be the last time, as it would likely destroy the components you were trying to solder. They're designed for brazing, sweating pipes and things of that nature.

 

[Timmsie95]

Sweet, good to know.

 

[TBurst Std]

I would buy the second soldering iron, and get a wedge tip for it. Those pointed conical tips are right next to useless. As for the automatic de-soldering tool, I've never had good luck with those, but I didn't have that particular model. Maybe it's different.

Why the second? Pricing?

I am planning on ordering a set of different tips for the one I get as well.

For the de-soldering tool, I already have a bulb as well as wick. Wanted to try something different as that is my weakness in my soldering skills. Removing previous solder and obtaining a clean platform.