recessed top jack plate loose on chambered body

[chriseh]

Just finished my latest project which is a Jazzmaster inspired guitar. I have one issue which I am not sure how to address: Where I needed  to drill holes for the top jack plate to be screwed in there wasn't a whole bunch of wood there in terms of depth as I assume I hit one of the chambers from the chambered construction but nonetheless when I had screwed the plate down it seemed solid enough.

After practise the other day I went to pull my cable out and that side of the plate came up and away from the body; it didn't take much force so I am thinking there just isn't enough wood there for the screw to keep a firm hold.

Any ideas on how to rectify this? 

   

 

[bagman67]

Is the guitar rear-routed?  If so, perhaps you can use a machine screws to hold the jackplate in place, and on the inside of the guitar use nuts and washers.  That way you don't have to rely on the depth of the wood to provide sufficient purchase for the wood screws.

 

[swarfrat]

If you have enough meat there, just too much hole, you can drop superglue in and run the screw in. It will still come out, but provide a form fitting thread match

 

[leo12.]

Pics would give more info, is it a rear routed control cavity? Does it have a strat top jack
rout?  :dontknow:

 

[jackthehack]

Had this issue on a chambered Strat body, solution is simple = longer screw...

 

[Cagey]

Had this issue on a chambered Strat body, solution is simple = longer screw...

Does that get a better grip on the air below the top? <grin>

The hole's too big, and there's nothing behind it. A larger diameter screw might work, but not longer. Problem is, the head is likely to be larger as well and stand out.

The other option would be to drill it out slightly larger still, fill it with dowel, then re-drill for the original screw but use the proper size bit.

 

[bagman67]

Had this issue on a chambered Strat body, solution is simple = longer screw...

Does that get a better grip on the air below the top? <grin>

The hole's too big, and there's nothing behind it. A larger diameter screw might work, but not longer. Problem is, the head is likely to be larger as well and stand out.

The other option would be to drill it out slightly larger still, fill it with dowel, then re-drill for the original screw but use the proper size bit.

I see that option working well into a solid body, but how thick is the top?  How much do you really have to work with?  Seems dodgy...

 

[Cagey]

I'm not finding a definitive answer. The laminates are only 1/8" thick, but I think the tops on chambered/hollow bodies are at least 1/4", more if they're carved tops. At 1/8", you're right. There's probably no filling that hole and re-using it. But, if it's 1/4", it'd work fine.

 

[Jumble Jumble]

I had a similar problem to this.

I drilled out a slightly bigger hole, all the way into the chamber. Then I put in a dowel that was cut to a reasonable precise and flat right angle at the end. I put glue on the end of the dowel and around the side too. Slid the dowel in all the way so it hit the other side of the guitar, and clamped it. Once the glue was done, I drilled into the dowel for the screw pilot hole. Worked out fine.

 

[chriseh]

Thanks for the replies all, I like the dowel idea but think I'm going to get my local luthier to do the actual work!!