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Reaming the "step" in the tuner hole.

electramone

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Hi All,

Just wanted to hear some opinions.  I'm ready to put together another Warmoth Esquire project.  I've read so many great tips and tricks to install tuner bushings into the tight painted holes.  I've always used a tapered reamer and just enlarged the hole a hair and then gently tap them in using a hammer and a soft block of wood. 

Now most companies who drill holes for Klusons or even Waverlys put that "step" ream in the hole making the front for the bushing larger than the back for the shaft.  Now I've always reamed the hole open one size straight through.  I recently read a post on another forum that this is a no no because the tighter ream in the back helps support the tuner shaft more.  Does anybody see a problem with that?  I can't see the tuner shaft getting less support since the shaft will be held solid in place by the bushing anyway.  I've always done my tuner installs this way and never had a problem. I guess I answered my own question but always like feedback.

Great Forum!  Glad I found it.
 
I'll respond, since you're building an esquire.
My guess is if the bushing is tight, there will be no problems. If you've got to hammer them in, I'm sure it's tight enough.
 
I suppose a case could be made for either way, but I would say as long as the bushing is tight everything will be fine.  If the extra step makes you feel better about things, go ahead.
 
Welcome!
Actually Stewmac makes a counterbore bit for this purpose. http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Reamers/Rear_Peghole_Reamer.html
I think its a different diameter than you need, though.

You're right, a lot of builders use the "step" to fully support the post.
I feel its a fancy extra, cool if you have it, but I don't have the step on any of my guits and they still hold tune and do shows well. studio, no prob, etc. I don't feel its needed.
 
Fully support the post?  Wha?  The post is not fully supported on a step ream, otherwise it would be rubbing on the wood, and it doesn't do that.  Its a close fit, but it doesn't actually "rub" and be supported by the wood.

Knowing that, I've always figured that the step ream was to give more wood at the hole, so when you hammer the damn things in the headstock doesn't split.  Having a hole of the correct size for the bushing is the key.  Most bushings are tapered and should enter the hole about 1/3 to 1/2 way, then be "pressed" (please, not hammered) into the hole.  Its up to the assembler to make sure the holes are fit properly - but some folks rush the job and just hammer the bushings in... sometimes results are bad.

The only fully supported shafts are those on tuners with screw in bushings, where the body of the tuner and the bushing are held by fine threads, and stay in almost perfect alignment.

On Kluson press fit tuners - the tuner-to-bushing alignment is critical for smoothness.  On old tuners there was lots of slop in the shaft and you had to finagle the thing to get it aligned perfecto.  Mis alignment caused binding on one section of the ring gears rotation - something we have all encountered if we've tried to tune an old Fender or cheaper Gibson.  Todays tuners... usually are set tighter, some with nylon or other plastic inserts to hold things really firm, and alignment is not too bad of an issue, assuming the bushing is set flush with the top of the peghead (not tilted).

FWIW, Dremel makes a really small sanding drum (the smallest of the three sizes) that "just fits" a tuner bushing hole.  Or, just use sandpaper on a dowel.  The Dremel will usually give you a slightly tapered hole, and those work pretty well to hold things really tight on the slightly tapered bushing.
 
Yeah I phrased it poorly...In my head it sounded different.  :icon_jokercolor:
I dont really mean, "support the post"  :toothy11:
I really meant,"...to have the correct diameter for each part of the tuner. The bottom part is sized for the housing, and the top part is sized for the bushing."

-edit- I still dont think it's needed. Probably due to the tuners I use are of a uniform diameter, so there's no need to counterbore anything.
 
Gotcha!

If you or I were doing it, we'd just drill the tuner hole, and then redrill the bushing hole to some adequate depth.
 
You guys rule!  Great forum.  I have a beautiful Santa Cruz that I did a Waverly conversion on.  I reamed through the "step" and was told I screwed up.  Like you all mentioned even on the step ream the wood doesn't hug the post anyway.  I'll keep doing it the way I always have.  Thanks guys!!!  I'll post pics when it's done.  Doing a Vint-mod boat or Clapton rosewood board  60's style green guard Esquire.  Still haven't decided on color yet.  Any suggestions?  Thinking vintage or oly white. 

Rock Out!     
 
Ya know... sometimes folks do things just because they can.  And that step might be one of 'em.  I can tell ya... my OLD Warmoth necks didn't have no step, and I have no idea when they started it.  My old necks... from mid 90's, 10-12 years old now.
 
=CB= said:
Gotcha!

If you or I were doing it, we'd just drill the tuner hole, and then redrill the bushing hole to some adequate depth.

There we go! I'mg glad i got my brain back, hahahaa ...Fancy Schmancy Tuner step, Ha :laughing7:

ELECTRAMONE, that's an interesting build you got planned. I'm partial to vintage white to match with the mint green pickguard. Maybe the Olympic white will be to "POW" bright.
 
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