Questions

GoDrex

Senior member
Messages
3,619
So since it looks like I'll be putting my guitar together myself I have a few questions.

1) How can I find out the sizes of the various screws? Warmoth doesn't say what they are (unless I've missed something). Or do I have to take each of the screws to the hardware store and try and figure out what drill bits I need? Or can I just use any bit I've got that's a little smaller than the screw. I've read to use tapered bits and I don't think I have that type.

2) To prevent messing up the finish I read that people use tape like the blue painters tape. Are they drilling right through the tape?

3) Any tips for sanding the inside of the hole in the headstock for the tuners? I tried to put one of the tuners in the the holes and they're too tight. Like what kind number grit should I get?
 

SkuttleFunk

Senior member
Messages
1,156
here's where StewMac and AllParts become your friend for things you can't find at the big W (or forgot to order)

- for drill sizes, I use a dial caliper to measure the screw shaft diameter (NOT the thread diameter). I make sure to drill holes within 1/64" of the screw shaft diameter

- use brad dit drill bits unless you're drilling a really large hole (like 1/2" or bigger)

- don't sand the tuner hole ... it's tight so you can press the trim ring into the hole and have it snuggly stay in place. some people use a rubber mallet to gently tap the busings in place, and others use a busing press. personally, I only use Hipshot tuners that screw together


all the best,

R
 

GoDrex

Senior member
Messages
3,619
- use brad dit drill bits unless you're drilling a really large hole (like 1/2" or bigger)

I looked at stew mac and the smallest brad point one is 1/8"  The shaft of the neck screws looks like it's 1/8" by my ruler. I'm mainly concerned with all the really small screws - like the tuner screws and the pick up rings.
 

SkuttleFunk

Senior member
Messages
1,156
for brad point drill bit, Home Depot and Lowe's are a great place to go

I use regular bits for holes under 1/8"


all the best,

R
 

tfarny

Senior member
Messages
4,481
Non-professionals alternative take: get a full set of the standard drill bits, if you don't have them already. from around 1/16 to 1/4 I guess. A set is inexpensive and useful all over the house. Then eyeball them; just whatever is a bit smaller than the screw. If in doubt, go small and if it's too tight, back the screw out and go the next size up. i'm sure skuttlefunk is way more of a pro than I am, and no disrespect, but you can easily do this without a micrometer and all that. Finally, if you're not feeling confident, do your drill-bit choosing by drilling holes and screwing into a piece of hard scrap wood. Practice anything you're not sure on the scrap wood first.
 

-CB-

Senior member
Messages
5,427
SkuttleFunk said:
- don't sand the tuner hole ... it's tight so you can press the trim ring into the hole and have it snuggly stay in place. some people use a rubber mallet to gently tap the busings in place, and others use a busing press. personally, I only use Hipshot tuners that screw together

Do sand the tuner hole.  The bushings are slightly tapered and attempting to force them into a hole thats made sort of minimum spec to start with, then has perhaps some finish in it... and you might just split the headstock.  Instead, I've found the smallest size dremel sanding drum - run slow, or even better, run on a drill motor, not a dremel.... is good for easing the bushing holes just a little.  Get them in about 1/3 to 1/2 way by finger pressure when sanding, THEN press them in the rest of the way.  Yes, W has stories of split headstocks.
 

GoDrex

Senior member
Messages
3,619
Like I wrote in my other thread (because I need multiple threads to keep track of my stupendous self :laughing11:) I'm using Planet Waves tuners - so, no bushings. Just tuner, washer, nut and little screw. I rolled up some sandpaper and wiggled it around in there and got them all to go on nicely. Because the PW tuners are threaded, I wasn't about to try and force them in. Just needed to remove a little of the finish that got inside the holes and it was smooth after that.

Drilled holes for just about everything that needs screws (haven't done the truss rod cover yet) and just need to do the electronics soldering and the nut and I'll be basically done. Just waiting on some wire, felt washers and some files. I'm sure glad I'm not paying $325 plus tax. :)
 

-CB-

Senior member
Messages
5,427
GoDrex said:
I rolled up some sandpaper and wiggled it around in there

Works for me!~ (on the threaded bushing types).

Ya know... threaded bushings are THE way to go if you want smooth tuners.  The alignment of tuner body to bushing is critical for smoothness, to the point that modern press bushing tuners have nylon (or some synthetic) bearing surfaces to try and keep things straight and get around the inadequacy of the design.  This results in a harder to turn tuner, although.. they are usually smooth... just stiff.  But a set of Grovers, even modern ones... is a thing of joy to use.
 

jackthehack

Senior member
Messages
5,630
General guide for drill bits for pilot holes not predrilled by Warmoth:

Tuner hold down screws = 1/16
Pickguard/PU mounting rings/top mount jackplate = 3/32
Strap holders = 7/64

If doing your own controls placement, Vol/tone pots = 3/8 Gibson 3 way toggle = 1/2 Note that rotary switches can come in both 3/8 and 1/2, measure before drilling. Mini-switches are usually 1/4, but can vary, check those as well before drilling.

 

GoDrex

Senior member
Messages
3,619
jackthehack said:
General guide for drill bits for pilot holes not predrilled by Warmoth:

Tuner hold down screws = 1/16
Pickguard/PU mounting rings/top mount jackplate = 3/32
Strap holders = 7/64

If doing your own controls placement, Vol/tone pots = 3/8 Gibson 3 way toggle = 1/2 Note that rotary switches can come in both 3/8 and 1/2, measure before drilling. Mini-switches are usually 1/4, but can vary, check those as well before drilling.

Thanks! Cool but... too late! hahaha.

I did use a 1/16 for the tuners but I think I used a 5/64 for the pickup rings since those screws seems rather small. And I used 3/32 for all the bigger stuff I think. Should be nice and tight hehehe.
 

jackthehack

Senior member
Messages
5,630
GoDrex said:
jackthehack said:
General guide for drill bits for pilot holes not predrilled by Warmoth:

Tuner hold down screws = 1/16
Pickguard/PU mounting rings/top mount jackplate = 3/32
Strap holders = 7/64

If doing your own controls placement, Vol/tone pots = 3/8 Gibson 3 way toggle = 1/2 Note that rotary switches can come in both 3/8 and 1/2, measure before drilling. Mini-switches are usually 1/4, but can vary, check those as well before drilling.


Thanks! Cool but... too late! hahaha.

I did use a 1/16 for the tuners but I think I used a 5/64 for the pickup rings since those screws seems rather small. And I used 3/32 for all the bigger stuff I think. Should be nice and tight hehehe.

My bad; I usually use pickguard screws for the PU mounting rings so I can match the color of the other hardware/screws used; if using the chrome screws that come with most rings you would need the smaller bit. If you're unsure, check the screw against the hole the bit resides in from the bit set's box. It's always cheaper to buy a set of std. bits 1/16 to 3/8 than buy individual bits.
 

-CB-

Senior member
Messages
5,427
jackthehack said:
If doing your own controls placement, Vol/tone pots = 3/8 Gibson 3 way toggle = 1/2 Note that rotary switches can come in both 3/8 and 1/2, measure before drilling. Mini-switches are usually 1/4, but can vary, check those as well before drilling.

May I humbly suggest a UNI-Bit step drill for the pickguard controls?  If you make a small pilot... maybe 1/8... in the spot you want the control, the step drill will cut the hole you need WITH HAND PRESSURE... no drill motor needed...  The reason I like them is they are self centering and dont wobble in the hole, and when using hand pressure, cannot melt the pickguard.
 

jeffmt

New member
Messages
2
I have a question somewhat related to this. Has anyone bought a finished body from Warmoth? Do they predrill screw holes for the pick guard, neck, and bridge?
 

blue313

Senior member
Messages
2,824
jeffmt said:
I have a question somewhat related to this. Has anyone bought a finished body from Warmoth? Do they predrill screw holes for the pick guard, neck, and bridge?
Neck, yes to Fender specs. 
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodies/Options/NeckPocketPop.aspx

The bridge, some. 
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodies/Options/BridgeRoutingOptions.aspx

There's too much variety in pickguard manufacturers for them to cover them all.  Plus its easy.
 

jeffmt

New member
Messages
2
Blue313 said:
jeffmt said:
I have a question somewhat related to this. Has anyone bought a finished body from Warmoth? Do they predrill screw holes for the pick guard, neck, and bridge?
Neck, yes to Fender specs. 
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodies/Options/NeckPocketPop.aspx

The bridge, some. 
http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Bodies/Options/BridgeRoutingOptions.aspx

There's too much variety in pickguard manufacturers for them to cover them all.  Plus its easy.

Thanks Blue313. I plan on ordering the pick guard from them as well (because their prices are very reasonable) so hopefully they'd be willing to predrill the holes as an added option. If there are no mounting holes for the bridge that's a little concerning. I'm really nervous about doing my own drilling.
 

tfarny

Senior member
Messages
4,481
They won't predrill pickguard holes for you, they're busy boys up there. If you pick one of the standard bridge options, and make sure you get a bridge that's compatible, you won't need to drill anything for the bridge.

You need to be confident that you can drill a hole in a guitar body before you take on a custom assembly - if you can't do that comfortably you really should pay somebody else to assemble it for you. You at least will need to drill pickguard screw holes and strap button holes, assuming you don't get into a bunch of customizing stuff. You can do it!
 

Superlizard

Senior member
Messages
2,514
=CB= said:
SkuttleFunk said:
- don't sand the tuner hole ... it's tight so you can press the trim ring into the hole and have it snuggly stay in place. some people use a rubber mallet to gently tap the busings in place, and others use a busing press. personally, I only use Hipshot tuners that screw together

Do sand the tuner hole.  The bushings are slightly tapered and attempting to force them into a hole thats made sort of minimum spec to start with, then has perhaps some finish in it... and you might just split the headstock.  Instead, I've found the smallest size dremel sanding drum - run slow, or even better, run on a drill motor, not a dremel.... is good for easing the bushing holes just a little.  Get them in about 1/3 to 1/2 way by finger pressure when sanding, THEN press them in the rest of the way.   Yes, W has stories of split headstocks.

+1  :icon_thumright:  Had to do the exact same with my 1/4-sawn maple/maple vintage-tint-finished neck and vintage tuner bushings.  Dremel - it's not just for breakfast anymore!
 
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