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Question For Floyd Users

Dan025 said:
i dont understand why there is so much confusion here. floating trems find the point where pull is equal in both directions, if you reduce the pull on one string the trem moves pulling more tension on the other strings, not rocket science.

Yeah, I'm thinking Dangerous R6 misunderstood my post. That's what I was saying, if you unscrew the nut and loosen the string, with a floating trem, it will go out of tune. With the D-Tuna it doesn't because it's designed for guitars that have non-floating trems. I believe it even says that in the book that comes with it.
MULLY
 
mullyman said:
Dan025 said:
i dont understand why there is so much confusion here. floating trems find the point where pull is equal in both directions, if you reduce the pull on one string the trem moves pulling more tension on the other strings, not rocket science.

Yeah, I'm thinking Dangerous R6 misunderstood my post. That's what I was saying, if you unscrew the nut and loosen the string, with a floating trem, it will go out of tune. With the D-Tuna it doesn't because it's designed for guitars that have non-floating trems. I believe it even says that in the book that comes with it.
MULLY
Even if you loosen one string , that still isn't enough to overcome the tension of the other five strings. That is why it doesn't go out of tune....
 
the first idea of a preloaded spring is probably better, the setup should look kinda like a "tremsetter" from hipshot but they preload the spring with another spring and that just doesn't work, it may work better than factory but not exactly what i have in mind.

i think the other idea is simpler and can work but may be hard to sell people on, there would be a distinct feel to it, not smooth at all.

i just need to get a mill (im actually in the process of that) and a place to put it (still working on that detail), i could have done it a while back but now i work in more of a factory than a machine shop. i do have a lathe though.
 
DangerousR6 said:
The most logical solution would be to have a ball bearing pivot point...

now you bring logic into all this, and that's the problem, zero friction to let it return on it's own doesn't help when you break a string....
i would want a defined return point...

and i had a couple guitars with floating trems, i couldn't even tune a string to pitch without all others changing, never mind go to drop d!
some times it was subtle but i didn't like it. one was a yamaha with there cheap cast bridge that had fine tuners and was lockin but not nearly the quality of a floyd and another was a heartfield i got from a friend, more springs help, tremsetter may help but the best design i've seen is the tremking and i want to be able to retro fit that idea in any cavity on any bridge
 
DangerousR6 said:
mullyman said:
Dan025 said:
i dont understand why there is so much confusion here. floating trems find the point where pull is equal in both directions, if you reduce the pull on one string the trem moves pulling more tension on the other strings, not rocket science.

Yeah, I'm thinking Dangerous R6 misunderstood my post. That's what I was saying, if you unscrew the nut and loosen the string, with a floating trem, it will go out of tune. With the D-Tuna it doesn't because it's designed for guitars that have non-floating trems. I believe it even says that in the book that comes with it.
MULLY
Even if you loosen one string , that still isn't enough to overcome the tension of the other five strings. That is why it doesn't go out of tune....

Fair enough, I trust your word, man. I haven't had a floating trem in a long time. I gave up on them fairly quickly because of how much of a pain in the ass they are when you change strings. I don't like sitting there too long tuning and retuning and retuning until everything is balanced out.
MULLY
 
As to Jay's OP...

I had an idea, although Ive never delt with a D-Tuna - so feel free to shoot this one down... IF you had a Schaller Floyd, the string-lock screws are much
shorter than a standard FR. So... if you got a body recess routed for standard FR, but used a Scahller FR in the same cavity, you might have room for
the extended D-Tuna to fit in the route as well?  :icon_scratch:

ORC
 
ORCRiST said:
As to Jay's OP...

I had an idea, although Ive never delt with a D-Tuna - so feel free to shoot this one down... IF you had a Schaller Floyd, the string-lock screws are much
shorter than a standard FR. So... if you got a body recess routed for standard FR, but used a Scahller FR in the same cavity, you might have room for
the extended D-Tuna to fit in the route as well?  :icon_scratch:

ORC

definitely something to think about... and thanks for all the replies so far! it's looking more and more like i might want to just suck it up and go with a non-recessed floyd. if i block it off i could then tune to whatever i'd want, and return to standard pretty easily. probably with one of these

tremolostopper_lrg.jpg


inside the tremolo cavity. that it, just so i don't knock a big gash into the body's top wood by lifting up on the trem bar or something. which i probably would  since my old floyd was fully floating. i'd just pull the bar up without even thinking.
 
If you have a floating vibrato, and you loosen 1 string, the others will go out of tune. There is NO exception.

If you have a flush mount or blocked off vibrato, and you loosen a string, it will stay in tune. If you tighten the string, however, it will go out of tune.

As for a vibrato bridge that would stay in tune if one string were to be detuned or break, you would need a separate system for EACH string. I would say a cam system would be the way to go.
 
Paul-less said:
If you have a floating vibrato, and you loosen 1 string, the others will go out of tune. There is NO exception.

If you have a flush mount or blocked off vibrato, and you loosen a string, it will stay in tune. If you tighten the string, however, it will go out of tune.

As for a vibrato bridge that would stay in tune if one string were to be detuned or break, you would need a separate system for EACH string. I would say a cam system would be the way to go.

no your wrong,, it the vibrato springs are loaded against the body in the rest position tightening a string will need to exceed that tension first then the trem wiil move up. it's all a matter of preload... but kudos for the proper termonology.
 
I understand what you are saying. I set up my flushmounts very loosely, I like the action of the bar much more that way.

Thank you for showing me my error in a positive way. There seems to be a little hostility on this board at times, something I am new to.
 
Paul-less said:
I understand what you are saying. I set up my flushmounts very loosely, I like the action of the bar much more that way.

Thank you for showing me my error in a positive way. There seems to be a little hostility on this board at times, something I am new to.

i dont know why i said it that way, im starting to think im bipolar...

now that i look at photos i think the tremsetter may be exactly one of the things i was designing in my head but i always heard it helped but was not a cure, i assumed it worked a certain way but it looks like it could work like the idea i had. maybe do to the weak construction, brass where you need steel, plastic where you need metal, sheet metal where you need a bar, just not up to my standards.

i think the cam idea works if the cam is correctly designed i only know one guy with a kahler he and says it does the same thing anything else would do but i think a simple mod with a file could give the desired result..

at this point im not even being helpful, i go off on tangents to the point i dont even know what the question was.. i really have ADD, well i'd think i do anyway.
 
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