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Plans for my first warmoth project - DONE AGAIN (new pics!)

I just looked at the circuit diagram provided and your suggestion I think you will still run into a bit of a logic conundrum.

The suggestion earlier of using a five way super switch is a good idea because three positions could be set up to give the same result as  the Seymour Duncan diagram and the other two positions could be bridge bypassing tone control or neck bypassing tone control.

There is quite a useful playlist here that goes through guitar circuits in a logical progression that may be useful for understanding of wiring schemes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PN2yxIBX0jQ&feature=c4-overview-vl&list=PL20AF3FB2CD739CD9



 
stratamania said:
I just looked at the circuit diagram provided and your suggestion I think you will still run into a bit of a logic conundrum.

The suggestion earlier of using a five way super switch is a good idea because three positions could be set up to give the same result as  the Seymour Duncan diagram and the other two positions could be bridge bypassing tone control or neck bypassing tone control.

There is quite a useful playlist here that goes through guitar circuits in a logical progression that may be useful for understanding of wiring schemes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PN2yxIBX0jQ&feature=c4-overview-vl&list=PL20AF3FB2CD739CD9

I've thought about a five way super switch, but I've had too many blade style switches go out on me for one reason or another so I'm sticking with a 3 way toggle.

After thinking about my original idea, it's starting to make sense that it probably won't work, I'll stick with two SD triple shots, into phase switches, 2 volume, 1 tone and a 3 way
 
:headbang1:

Ordering the remaining parts tonight!

Neck from Warmoth ordered will list the rest when I'm done later.
 
Incoming parts:

GFS
H62 Loudmouth Pickup- EXTRA POWER with vintage Tone! Neck Position
H63 Loudmouth Pickup- EXTRA POWER
USA Gibson fit Chrome Tuneomatic Bridge- BRASS Saddles
USA Gibson fit Chrome Stop Tailpeice with Studs

Warmoth
Custom Neck
Style: Vortex
Construction: Warmoth Pro Angled
Orientation: Right Handed
Neck Wood: Maple
Fingerboard Wood: Indian Rosewood
Nut Width: 1-3/4"
Back Shape: 59 roundback
Fret Size: SS6150 (Stainless)
Tuner Ream: Schaller (25/64" 11/32")
Radius: 10-16" Compound
Scale: 25-1/2"
Fret #: 22
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Pre-Cut Installed String Nut: GraphTech White TUSQ
Inlays: No Inlay
Side Dots: White Side Dots
Finish: No Finish

3 Capacitor, Ceramic Disc, .001uf, 50 Volt
3 Capacitor, Ceramic Disc, .022uf, 50 Volt
WK1 Wiring Kit
Warmoth Decal with Turtle Logo
Chrome neck plate
Neck screws

Amazon
Hipshot 6GLO Grip Lock Tuning Keys Chrome

Been curious about those loudmouth pickups, next year I plan on switching them out with a couple roadhouses.

Finally decided that I'll stick with just two volume controls, a 3 way toggle, and the two Triple Shots. I'll build a tone pedal since I have a few extra pedal enclosures laying around somewhere.

The body is at Brian Pauls waiting to be cut, hopefully soon, but Incan wait since the neck will be here in a few weeks.
 
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Ok ok ok here sorry been tired and was waiting on the body to be completed

Body, routed by Brian at www.brianpaulguitars.com, awesome guy, awesome job.
9C4D2EAD-FEFB-4D01-94D8-0F5A675DB400-1377-00000125D508862C_zps65913691.jpg


Body with the brass saddled bridge and tailpiece just laid in to do a rough test fit
F0270A3B-EC27-40F9-B50F-AA9D1AA4073F-1377-00000125E23D244C_zpsa431f441.jpg


Body with my bullet strat squire neck fitted in. Slipped in perfectly, nice and snug, can't wait for the neck to come in.
C6B81777-5A99-40A7-BD49-E5243DCB910B-1377-00000125E6CAD837_zps3df4fb17.jpg


Body sitting next to the Loudmouth pickups from GFS slipped into cream Seymour Duncan Triple shots.
5324D866-9FF6-4118-BE52-45C2CE9EC2D9-1377-00000125DD30CB53_zpsc65bf7e3.jpg


Now just waiting on the neck, ordering the rest of the electronics, then wudtone stain and finish the neck and body with tru oil. For a second I almost bolted the squire neck on...but no I resisted.

Ordered the hipshot locking tuners, but in my laziness I didn't realize they ere 6-in line, so exchanging them for the 3x3 since I'm going with a vortex 2 headstock.
 
Yeah, that's gonna end up nice.

I think if it was me, I'd at least break the corners on that body with a 1/4" roundover. Otherwise, they're gonna show a helluva lotta abuse without really even taking any.
 
Cagey said:
Yeah, that's gonna end up nice.

I think if it was me, I'd at least break the corners on that body with a 1/4" roundover. Otherwise, they're gonna show a helluva lotta abuse without really even taking any.

I'm gonna take some sand paper and tone down the edges on it, I knew I should have asked him to do it. But, no biggie, in also gonna put a carve on the lower horn so I can get better access to the upper frets,
 
The neck came in today, now waiting on the rest of the electronics.

The headstock (little birdseye maple there...got lucky I guess):


The rosewood fretboard...no dots on the top:


TMNWT:


The neck fitted into the body, a perfect fit:


And started marking the holes on the body, I did the rest but I'm too tired to take more photos. The piece of cardboard is my poor man's wiring harness.


Rest of electronics should be in Tuesday, then after turkey day, I'll be getting everything together sans-finish and doing a quick play test. Then going to order my Amaranthine stain from Wudtone.

SO CLOSE!!!!
minions-excited.gif
 
It looks like you're planning to drill your control holes from the inside of your cavity, based on the pencil lines I see there.  I would do the final drilling from the top of the guitar, using a Forstner bit.  Drilling small holes from the inside to locate them and then drilling from the top woul but you have a strong likelihood of tearout if you drill from behind.  Another choice is to securely clamp the body to a sacrificial board so when you drill through you don't break into open air, and tearout likelihood is eliminated.  I would recommend you do that no matter which side you're drilling from, actually.


Maybe you know all this, but not everyone does.  I've made this mistake myself on non-guitar projects.
 
Yeah I bought the brad point drill bit set from Stewmac and I will be using the 1/8" bit to start from the inside, then finish it off on the other side.
 
The brad point... is it the "brad"? No, the "point", still needs to hit a small hole to stay centered. It's really always a good idea to go from top in, and also ease way, way up on the pressure when you get to the last itty bit.

Throw AWAY dull drill bits immediately! Or sooner - they will only come back to haunt you! Far, far away - or they just keep crawling back, like an abused cockroach.

Of course you want to locate holes in relation to the interior cavity wall, but once you've got that, jeez, it's what? 2 minutes with a a ruler, divider, caliper, compass, whatever, you can stick tape all willy-nilly to wrap lines up around the edges. I maybe even cut a few pieces of cardboard first to the size of the cavity plate, then down to the sized of the cavity?

Besides just not boning yer boardies, there are actually aesthetic reasons why holes need to go where they need to go. And they look different on the front than on the back, sounds like a "well DUH" moment and yet... and yet.... And once you commit on the wood, even a bitty one/sixteenther, you're committed (firsts one say she got my child, but it don't look like me)

Drill bits are cheap. Cardboard is cheaper. Tape is cheap. Paper, cheaper than that! Measuring 14 times, cheaper still. Endless, agonizing nights, sweating and muttering and tossing and turning, nightmares of Dremels all through my mind - Priceless! :toothy12:

 
Stubby, you're weird and I like you. After careful deliberation and translation, I'm taking your advice to just tracing a piece of cardboard to the size of the body and taping it to the front to ensure I get the holes where I want it.

You're like Mr. Miyagi.
 
Ok sorry for taking a while for updates, but a couple weeks ago I did a hole-drilling, pre-fitting, electronics-testing on the guitar when all parts were in, and holy shnikey's it sounds awesome. Those GFS Loudmouths sound great with all four options on the Seymour Duncan Triple Shots.

Anyway, since it's around 60 degrees here it's been cold, so slow going with the Wudtone finishing process. I applied the deep color Amaranthine coat last week, now I applied the base coat to the body.

1E91C932-ABF1-4D7F-85DB-826259EBD20B_zpsi31bu4o5.jpg
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Did the base coat for the neck and first coat of top coat:
AC55D88B-F688-46CD-B917-88E870039983_zpsvogbdwxf.jpg
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Was VERY close to just leaving it the way it was with an unfinished ash body and unfinished maple neck but I didn't want to risk humidity messing with it. Anyway, I'll have to settle for my Gibson SG and Shine WT440 while the finishing process takes place, and yes I am taking my time since weather here in Texas is cold and we keep at apartment at a nice 60 degree temp.

Cheers!  :occasion14:
 
FINALLY! All done.
Man this thing sounds so sweet, once I finish writing this song I'll have some sound samples.
I know they look pink, but it's purple in the light. Once its nice and sunny out Ill take some better photos.



 
I agree with Marty - very nice work!  I really like that vivid purple-magenta color.  Great job!

 
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