On using rattle-can lacquer...?

[ORCRiST]

Hi all... well my W strat headstock has all of my decals in position and has been dried for at least 72 hours.

My neck was finished in satin nitro when I ordered it, and I have a rattle-can of Satin Nitro from Stew Mac.

The decal instructions say I should give it a couple of 'mist' coats (with appropriate drying time between each
coat).

Just wanted to ask for general advice going foward so I don't mess up my beautiful neck, so if anyone wants
to make me aware of any particulars or advice - its greatly welcome! I've never used lacquer before so I'm kinda
nervous!  Thanks!

ORC

 

[Cagey]

Just some generalities...

Lacquer uses acetone as a reducer/vehicle, which is extremely volatile. When they say "well-ventilated area", they mean it. And no open flames, including things like pilot lights in furnaces/water heaters.

Also, because it's so volatile, it boils off pretty rapidly. Lacquer dries almost as fast as you shoot it. But, don't let that fool you. You need some time between coats to let it dry completely. Finding the sweet spot between where you're blowing dust and hosing the part down is the trick, so it's worthwhile to practice on something. Almost doesn't matter what - you just want to find the right rhythm and distance to shoot at/from.

 

[ORCRiST]

Just some generalities...

Lacquer uses acetone as a reducer/vehicle, which is extremely volatile. When they say "well-ventilated area", they mean it. And no open flames, including things like pilot lights in furnaces/water heaters.

Also, because it's so volatile, it boils off pretty rapidly. Lacquer dries almost as fast as you shoot it. But, don't let that fool you. You need some time between coats to let it dry completely. Finding the sweet spot between where you're blowing dust and hosing the part down is the trick, so it's worthwhile to practice on something. Almost doesn't matter what - you just want to find the right rhythm and distance to shoot at/from.

Thanks for the reply Cagey. Well, due to the weather (raining atm, prolly all weekend) and the temps droping, I'll probably end up shooting
it indoors in my finished basement. Yes, the furnace is down there, but its in a seperate room behind a vented door, seeing as how its just
the face of a headstock (vs something larger) I should be ok, should'nt I?

ORC

 

[-CB-]

Lacquer over a decal is always a bit iffy...unless... you follow the recipe.

First thing is to level the existing finish in the decal area with some fine paper, like 600 or 800 grit. 
Clean it well, no dust, no nothin'.
Clean it again with naphtha to degrease it
Apply the decal (waterslide).
Let the decal dry at least an hour, if not more.
Apply very sparingly CLEAR shellac over the decal area.  Its ok to get the shellac on the lacquered areas.
Apply another coat of clear shellac over the decal area.  The shellac will be a barrier between the lacquer and decal, and also, its alcohol solvent will take any remaining water out of the decal membrane - VERY important to do, or you can cloud/lift/bubble the decal.
Apply a light coat of lacquer, let it dry an hour or more
Apply another, let it dry an hour or more
Apply a medium wet coat of lacquer, dry an hour or more.
Apply a medium wet coat of lacquer, dry a day.
Use 600 or 800 grit paper to level out the finish over the decal only.  Do not level (yet) over the other areas.
Two more medium wet coats, dry a day.... level again, just over the decal area.
One more medium wet coat - and inspect to see that the decal has "leveled" into the finish, after that coat is allowed to dry for an hour.
If it has sunk in, one more wet coat, let dry two days or more.
Final level of the entire headstock and bufff out. 

You'll have as good a job as can be done.  No decal outlines, just letters that are "in the finish". 

You  can get Zinsser Bullseye shellac in small cans and rattle cans.

 

[ORCRiST]

Lacquer over a decal is always a bit iffy...unless... you follow the recipe.

First thing is to level the existing finish in the decal area with some fine paper, like 600 or 800 grit. 
Clean it well, no dust, no nothin'.
Clean it again with naphtha to degrease it
Apply the decal (waterslide).
Let the decal dry at least an hour, if not more.
Apply very sparingly CLEAR shellac over the decal area.  Its ok to get the shellac on the lacquered areas.
Apply another coat of clear shellac over the decal area.  The shellac will be a barrier between the lacquer and decal, and also, its alcohol solvent will take any remaining water out of the decal membrane - VERY important to do, or you can cloud/lift/bubble the decal.
Apply a light coat of lacquer, let it dry an hour or more
Apply another, let it dry an hour or more
Apply a medium wet coat of lacquer, dry an hour or more.
Apply a medium wet coat of lacquer, dry a day.
Use 600 or 800 grit paper to level out the finish over the decal only.  Do not level (yet) over the other areas.
Two more medium wet coats, dry a day.... level again, just over the decal area.
One more medium wet coat - and inspect to see that the decal has "leveled" into the finish, after that coat is allowed to dry for an hour.
If it has sunk in, one more wet coat, let dry two days or more.
Final level of the entire headstock and bufff out.   

You'll have as good a job as can be done.  No decal outlines, just letters that are "in the finish". 

You  can get Zinsser Bullseye shellac in small cans and rattle cans.

Drying times for the shellac CB? Thx!

 

[-CB-]

Shellac dries up VERY fast.  Faster than lacquer which must "gas off" the solvent (acetone+other stuff).

Shellac uses ethyl alcohol as the solvent... and that evaporates very quickly, leaving a workable finish in short order.  Shellac is very fragile though.  It works ok on some stringed instruments like violins and mandolins when applied as the "french polish".  In our case, we're using it as a barrier layer, and to allow the alcohol to desiccate the decal to avoid milking of the decal.

Dry time - give it an hour to be safe, but really... its less than that (and I'm saying an hour to cover my extra wide behind)