NGD 1990 Robin Raider II

[muttznmongrelz]

A couple of days ago, I bought a USA 1985 Guild S-282 w/Original EMGs & Kahler for $80.00 which I was going to keep, but just sold after finding the Robin.

Well...the Guild is/was missing 2 tuners and the sales guy mentions that they have tuners...I told him I might come back tomorrow.

So, on the way home last night from my daughter's final basketball game this season...I stopped to look at the tuners. I noticed a hard case sitting by the parts section. It's got a big stencil of Texas on it and says..."Robin"... :drool

To make a long story short...I open it up to a see a Reverse HS Maple Board Neck (BEAUTIFUL & CLEAN NECK) Guitar with a Shaller Floyd (Arm Included), Twin HBs, Vol/Tone/3 Way & Orig. Hard Case..."how much", I asked..."$200.00...cause it's got an amateur Metallic Blue "Refinish"... :yikes ...needless to say...it's now MINE!!!

1990 Robin Raider II - "Hand Crafted In Houston, TX"
- 24 Fret Birdseye Maple Neck w/Gotoh Tuners
- Schaller Germany Floyd
- Pickups are "unknown" in the neck/EMG Select Bridge (they'll be going in favor of something else)
- Ahh...the finish..."Rattle Can Blue"...although it looks like some good wood underneath. Probably disassemble her and start sanding tomorrow.

 

[whyachi]

I like how the lower horn is longer than the upper. I've designed a few scratch basses like that, but they never made it past the graph paper.

 

[muttznmongrelz]

Very "Mosrite" influenced. Kind of reminds me of Alex Scolnick's Ibanez 540 as well.

 

[big bob]

Good grab. robin makes the best feeling necks, and how hard is a refinish?

 

[muttznmongrelz]

Thank goodness for Robin's Inteview Notes in their "History" Section...

Per Robin's Website:

A Medley of Raiders  

In around 1984 Robin introduced another new series that would have some legs in the line, the Raider, made by ESP.

The Raiders were inspired by Mosrites, basically a reverse Strat body. Made of ash, the initial '84 Raiders had full rounded, contoured bodies and horns. Fingerboards were either rosewood or maple with dots. They came equipped with a traditional vibrato, but you could have a Kahler as an option. The Raider I had a single top-mounted humbucker at the bridge. The Raider II added a neck humbucker. The IIs had a reverse hockey stick headstock. The Raider III added a pickguard with three single-coils in a Strat-style layout, plus the reverse Strat-style headstock like a Ranger Custom. Later Raider I and II models changed to a reverse blade head.


Raiders, Tedleys and Rawhides

In addition to the new Machete, an old fave the Raider joined the American Robin line probably in 1989. This had the old Mosrite shape, but now with squared-off edges, slimmer body, more pointy horns, and a Floyd. Heads were the ubiquitous reverse blade. The Raider I had a single humbucker, the Raider II two. These may have been only available that year. In around 1991 these changed into the Raider Standard I and IV. Like the Medleys, these had 24-fret rosewood fingerboards, and either two humbuckers or hum/sing/sing. These lasted through 1992.

 

[muttznmongrelz]

And the refinishing has begun... :friday:

 

[erogenousjones17]

Looking good so far.  :icon_thumright:

Since I'm considering a refinish myself, can I ask how you went about stripping off the old finish? Chemicals, or a good ol' sander?

 

[muttznmongrelz]

Thanks. I wound up using a small Hand Held Power Sander.

 

[erogenousjones17]

Good to know. Thanks.  :rock-on:

 

[muttznmongrelz]

Progressin'..."COBALT BLUE METALLIC" Refinish

 

[exaN]

Looking good

 

[mmarino92]

Reminds me of an Ibanez RG1527 with the body shape + metallic flake paint job. I like it  :headbang1:

MM

 

[muttznmongrelz]

Thanks gentlemen. I too see a bit of the Ibanez Skolnick Model in the body shape w/the extended lower horn.

It is not done yet...and by no means will it be a "perfect" finish...but it will be much better than the f'd up finish that was on it!

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

Do you own any of the Robins with the 4+2 V headstock?  In the early 90s, Rockin' Robin's in Houston was the only Robin dealer I knew of.  They had tons of them.  I haven't seen one since, and the only Pro endorsement I ever knew of with Robin was Tim Kelly of Slaughter, now deceased. 

 

[muttznmongrelz]

No, I just have the one. They really don't turn out too man. The whole "Handcrafter in Houston , TX USA" Motto/Logo. I'm fairly sure that Dave Wintz, who started/owns Robin, was or still is a partner in Rockin' Robin.

As for endorsers, there were a few, as I run across an ad in an old guitar mag or being offered up on eBay w/some 80s Hair Band player in it.  arty07:

 

[muttznmongrelz]

FINISHING QUESTIONS....

1 - Wet Sand the Metallic Paint or not? I've heard it could reduce the "metalic nature" of the finish...

  or

2 - Buff it out w/a 3M Fine Rubbing Compound (Fine Cut) that is to reomove, smooth and shine anything finer than Grade 1200 Scratches, etc.? 

 

[DesmoDog]

The only metallics I've used were a base/clear system. Sanding the base would scratch the flakes and was a no-no... sanding the claer was ok as long as you didn't go through to the base.... if you're using a single stage metallic I'd say no... don't sand it...

 

[muttznmongrelz]

Thanks. That makes perfect sense, as I've sanded metallics before and it "cut" into the flakes...so...next questionS...

*** What do you do with any "rough spots"?

*** Is a *LIGHT* Hand Rubbed Buff N Cut equally detrimental to a Metalic Flake Finish?  

 

[muttznmongrelz]

http://home.flash.net/~guitars/solids.html

Spraying Metallics

The metallic colors can be applied using the steps noted above. However, because of the nature of metallic colors a somewhat different color coat application is required. Metallics have small silver or colored aluminum particles in the color coat. It is these particles which give metallic paints their ability to show different colors when viewed from different angles.  Metallic paint also contains what is called a "flop control" agent. This agent helps to hold the small aluminum particles in random angels to the surface. It allows the particles to "stand up". Without the flop control agent the particles would lie flat and the color would lose it's iridescence.

When spraying metallics too wet of a coat will overcome the ability of the flop control agent to stand the powder and may cause a spot that appears to reflect light differently than the surrounding area. To prevent this it is best to spray the color coat slightly dry. You may find that hanging the guitar is not the best for spraying metallics. Try laying the guitar flat and spray holding the gun or aerosol a little further away than is needed for a non metallic solid color. Rather than going for a good flow "dust" the paint on. Spray and let gravity work for you. As with non metallics if you have a run or "flat" area you can repair the area by lightly sanding and spot spraying just that area.  

Sanding will also disturb the reflective qualities of the particles. Therefore, it is best to not sand a metallic color coat. Once the color is consistent spray four coats of clear coat (note: this is a revision to the original instructions. Two coats of clear may offer too little protection against sand throughs in some cases). Lean toward the dry side for the clear coats. If the unprotected color coat is sprayed with too wet of a clear coat the clear coat can also flatten the metallic particles. When dry sand the clear coat smooth. If needed now (or any time after clear coating has begun) any imperfection can be repaired, color coated and re clearcoated. The guitar is now ready for the series of clear coats that will protect the color and give the deep shine you expect.