Next project '51 NoCaster

LoxFL

Junior Member
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I got this Swamp Ash 1 piece 5lbs Warmoth body for a steal so I couldnt refuse it. It has a few barely visible scratches and pen tip size mark so knowing I am nuts about keeping my guitars prestine I decided, against all my thoughts about people who buy relic guitars, to do a relic project. I got 99% of the hardware from Tricked out Guitars on Reverb from medium to heavy relic including

Fender Control Plate
Fender 50s volume and tone knobs
Fender vintage 5 hole pick guard
Fender Vinatge bridge with brass saddles
Fender strap buttons
Fender Tele Cup
Fender Vintage tuners
Blank Neck Plate

I then picked up a CRL 3 way switch
2 CTS 250K AUD pots
Fender Custom Shop '51 Nocaster pickups
Black and white cloth covered wire

Last thing I picked up was a Warmoth showcase Vintage/Modern maple neck with some bonus flame. It has vintage tuner holes, TUSQ XL 1 3/4 nut, 6105 SS frets and 10-16 compound radius all in a vintage gloss tint

The best part, not, so far has been doing the original vintage correct NoCaster wiring. First time soldering through the eyelets.

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That is going to be cool. I did Broadcaster wiring (same thing, basically) on a recent build and really like the simplicity. The blend pot is great for dialing in the lead (position 1). Next time I intend to solder through the eyelets, too.
 
Rgand said:
That is going to be cool. I did Broadcaster wiring (same thing, basically) on a recent build and really like the simplicity. The blend pot is great for dialing in the lead (position 1). Next time I intend to solder through the eyelets, too.

I got an extra fine tip for my soldering iron which helped. Now that the wiring is done I will say it wasnt as bad as I thought it would be. I found it harder to bend the resister wire between eyelets then it was to actually solder them.
 
LoxFL said:
Rgand said:
That is going to be cool. I did Broadcaster wiring (same thing, basically) on a recent build and really like the simplicity. The blend pot is great for dialing in the lead (position 1). Next time I intend to solder through the eyelets, too.

I got an extra fine tip for my soldering iron which helped. Now that the wiring is done I will say it wasnt as bad as I thought it would be. I found it harder to bend the resister wire between eyelets then it was to actually solder them.
I'll remember that. I already have a fine tip for mine.
 
The choice of soldering iron tip can make a lotta difference results/performance. Unless you're soldering in small parts to PC boards or small lugs on mini-switches, usually a fine tip will give you trouble. The problem is they lose heat very quickly due to their low mass. That means if you touch one to a larger part (like a pot housing or spring claw), the part acts like a heat sink and the temperature drop at the tip is too much to heat up the part and/or maintain solder in a molten state. Often, you end up holding the soldering iron on the part much longer than you should, potentially damaging components.

On the other hand, a larger chisel tip can burn up parts or insulation very quickly, which is also NFG.

An effective compromise is a screwdriver tip, like one of these...
R8725132-01.jpg
24-6094-2.jpg
41f1IKBs3gL._SX342_.jpg
It's a good general-purpose tip that will work in a wide variety of situations.
 
Cagey said:
The choice of soldering iron tip can make a lotta difference results/performance. Unless you're soldering in small parts to PC boards or small lugs on mini-switches, usually a fine tip will give you trouble. The problem is they lose heat very quickly due to their low mass. That means if you touch one to a larger part (like a pot housing or spring claw), the part acts like a heat sink and the temperature drop at the tip is too much to heat up the part and/or maintain solder in a molten state. Often, you end up holding the soldering iron on the part much longer than you should, potentially damaging components.

On the other hand, a larger chisel tip can burn up parts or insulation very quickly, which is also NFG.

An effective compromise is a screwdriver tip, like one of these...
R8725132-01.jpg
24-6094-2.jpg
41f1IKBs3gL._SX342_.jpg
It's a good general-purpose tip that will work in a wide variety of situations.

You are correct about heat disbursement. I actually have that screwdriver tip one which I use 99% of the time. I only used the fine tip one for the eyelets for the same reason you discussed above
 
The build is now done and I am very happy with it especially the "Blend" wiring with the Fender Custom Shop '51 Nocaster pickups using the original '51 wiring schematic.


Bridge

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Controls
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Body Back
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Neck Back
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Neck Front
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Neck Side (showing the bonus flame)
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Congratulations on finishing it up. I like the blend wiring. It's easy to get great tones, and at the flick of a switch. Do you have a front shot of it?
 
Rgand said:
Congratulations on finishing it up. I like the blend wiring. It's easy to get great tones, and at the flick of a switch. Do you have a front shot of it?

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