Newbie questions

[Neo Fender]

I’m looking to order an Olympic White replacement body for my ’98 Strat Plus and transfer the neck and all hardware over to it.  To avoid any additional drilling, I’d like to have it as “turn key” ready as possible.  Some questions:

Will the neck bolt holes align?

Will Warmoth drill the holes for the strap buttons and tremolo claw? (yeah, I know – “man up” but I am not willing to attack a new $280 - 360 body with a drill unless I know the hole’s correct diameter, angle and depth – the way Leo and Yngwie intended it.

The original body has a universal “swimming pool” rout.  I will go with that or an H/S/H rout.  Any pros or cons for either one (no, I would probably never put a full size humbucker in the middle position…).  I think in recent years, Fender has gone away from the universal rout on production guitars and is using the H/SH rout.  Do either of these ever show up in the showcase?

If I go for a showcase body, my understanding is that the rout will be unfinished.  Should I:
Finish it by hand with Olympic White?
Finish it w/ shielding paint?
Finish it and line it with copper foil?
Leave it unfinished and line it copper foil?
Leave it unfinished?

Thanks.

 

[MikeW]

In order:
1. Yes.

2. Strap button and claw holes you'll have to do yourself. I've found that strap button holes are one of the easiest jobs during a build. Claw holes really aren't a big deal either, just be sure to take a shallow angle, almost parallel with the bottom of the spring cavity and you'll be fine.

3. They both show up in the showcase, but what is more likely is that you'll see a body you want that is routed S-S-S. When you purchase the body you can have Warmoth rout it to your specifications. H-S-H routs are listed in the choices available and the extra routing won't cost anything else. You'll also be able to specify which bridge rout you want on the body as well. American Standard and Vintage 6-Hole bridges are options for bridge routs too.

4. There's quite a bit of difference of opinion on this topic. My $0.02 is this: If it's a rear-routed body, leave it unfinished and line it with foil. If it's a top-routed body, leave it unfinished and line the back of the pickguard with foil. That should be enough to prevent any EM interference.

 

[Cagey]

Yes, the neck bolt holes will align.

The trem claw holes will be drilled, but not the strap button holes. They're really a no-brainer, but if it truly frightens you, I can't imagine any guitar shop charging more than $10 to do it for you. Some of them might do it if you buy the straplocks from them.

If you don't want to worry about the pickup cavities now or in the future, Warmoth can do the "swimming pool" route, too. It's a standard choice right in the builder, although I don't think I've ever seen one in the Showcase.

If you buy a finished Showcase body and have any fresh routing done, it will expose bare wood. I'd leave it bare, but that's just me. You could paint it yourself if it bothers you, but there's little point to it. Shielding paint/foil are a waste of time/money/effort. Use that money and energy to improve your beer supply <grin>

 

[drewfx]

If your Strat Plus has a tremsetter, you will need a super long drill bit to drill the hole for that if you're going to move it over (you can find an installation video/instuctions on the Hipshot website).

Personally, I'd go for the swimming pool route if it's a top route and you're doing anything other than S-S-S. And I believe they can still do the swimming pool route even if the Showcase body is already routed for some other PU configuration.

 

[Cagey]

Just as a point of information - those long drill bits are commonly called "aircraft drills" if you're going to go shopping. They're designed to put holes in deep, hard-to-reach places but are also handy if you want to be able to lay your drill motor down farther without interference from the chuck or motor body to get a more parallel hole in something you can't get exactly perpendicular to.