New WarMoth Tele Body and Hardware

[JPOL007]

Thinline Tele with Walnut top and contoured heel Black Korina back. Rear routed, Schaller black 474 bridge, Schaller black strap locks and black neck plate with black screws for contoured heel. P90 neck and humbucker bridge routing. :turtle:

 

[BigSteve22]

Nice......  :headbang:

 

[JPOL007]

Nice......  :headbang:

Thanks, Now I need to find some birds eye maple for the inlay work.

 

[rgand]

That's going to really come alive when you put a finish on it.

 

[rauchman]

Wow, that is a gorgeous body.  I'm not familiar with this model, but really like the control layout.

Looking forward to seeing this completed.  Will this also get the trem you put on the other one?  What pickups are you planning?

 

[BroccoliRob]

I wanna build a house and live inside that bomb-ass Walnut top.

 

[JPOL007]

That's going to really come alive when you put a finish on it.

Thinking about grain filler, sanding sealer then a lot of Tru-Oil coats. Does that progression sound right? Or would filling the grain diminish the overall look?

 

[Verne Bunsen]

What a gorgeous combination!

 

[JPOL007]

Wow, that is a gorgeous body.  I'm not familiar with this model, but really like the control layout.

Looking forward to seeing this completed.  Will this also get the trem you put on the other one?  What pickups are you planning?

Thanks, It's a thinline with a rear rout and the control layout is for thinline Teles. I'm using a Schaller 474 hardtail bridge on this one. The neck will be a P90 (noiseless), looking hard at JBE models. The bridge is going to be a humbucker...maybe a JBE two tone. That might be the wrong name but is a humbucker you tap and it cuts the output in half to give a single coil output. May go with a SD 59 or JB bridge. :icon_scratch:

 

[JPOL007]

I wanna build a house and live inside that bomb-ass Walnut top.

Was suprised at how good the grain looked when I opened the box. If things work out right...I will be using maple to do an inlay on the Walnut top.

 

[JPOL007]

What a gorgeous combination!

Thanks, I'm thinking about using walnut to replace the control cavity cover. Good or bad idea?

 

[rgand]

That's going to really come alive when you put a finish on it.

Thinking about grain filler, sanding sealer then a lot of Tru-Oil coats. Does that progression sound right? Or would filling the grain diminish the overall look?

I'm not the guy to ask. I haven't used Tru-Oil before, or either of the woods you have. Ask that in the DIY Finishing section and you'll probably get lots of good information. I can appreciate good-looking wood, though.

 

[stratamania]

That's going to really come alive when you put a finish on it.

Thinking about grain filler, sanding sealer then a lot of Tru-Oil coats. Does that progression sound right? Or would filling the grain diminish the overall look?

Birchwood Casey makes a sealer and filler product. I would use that prior to the Tru-oil.

 

[JPOL007]

That's going to really come alive when you put a finish on it.

Thinking about grain filler, sanding sealer then a lot of Tru-Oil coats. Does that progression sound right? Or would filling the grain diminish the overall look?

Birchwood Casey makes a sealer and filler product. I would use that prior to the Tru-oil.

Cool, Thanks

 

[Cagey]

Thinking about grain filler, sanding sealer then a lot of Tru-Oil coats. Does that progression sound right? Or would filling the grain diminish the overall look?

Walnut usually needs to be filled, and as with any wood that has a somewhat open grain if you don't fill it, you run the risk of having an oil-based finish not cure properly. Oil finishes really need to be applied very thin, and the nooks and crannies of an open grain don't really allow for that.

 

[JPOL007]

Thinking about grain filler, sanding sealer then a lot of Tru-Oil coats. Does that progression sound right? Or would filling the grain diminish the overall look?

Walnut usually needs to be filled, and as with any wood that has a somewhat open grain if you don't fill it, you run the risk of having an oil-based finish not cure properly. Oil finishes really need to be applied very thin, and the nooks and crannies of an open grain don't really allow for that.

Thank you