Neck heavy?

[rdb93]

After going to several local stores, I’ve decided I’m going to opt for the 1 3/4” fatback in roasted flame maple neck and get a Lollar Imperial standard for the bridge and Lollar Imperial low wind for the neck.

It will be a roasted chambered Strat style body with F-hole. I’m just wondering, what would people say are the main differences between roasted alder and roasted ash? I know alder is the more traditional choice for a Strat, but I’m keen to get opinions as I’m guessing there may be differences for roasted/chambered woods?

Any experience with either wood type would be really appreciated. Thank you in advance.

 

[Rick]

I haven't found much difference between ash and alder except that ash seems to be incrementally brighter if you can get a heavier denser piece of ash and then have it chambered.  Based on my experience, I go with whichever looks prettier.

 

[rdb93]

Thanks Rick. Appearance shouldn’t be an issue, since it will have a maple cap due to chambering.

I’ve heard ash can be slightly more mid scooped and less congested/clearer? I’m not sure how this would play out with chambering and roasted wood though?

 

[Rick]

The difference is really de minimis.  Somewhere on this website is a link to a shoot out "The Aaron" did on youtube with mahogany, alder and swamp ash.  And I couldn't tell the difference, well maybe with the mahogany played clean.  It would be worth a look and listen.

 

[rgand]

Rick nailed it. To my ears ash is a bit snappier sounding. Alder has a fuller sound without loosing the highs. Alder is my favorite wood to work with as it cuts easily and cleanly. Swamp ash is lighter in weight than Northern ash. If I want grain to show, swamp ash for sure. For a solid color or burst finish I'd choose alder.

 

[rdb93]

Thanks both. Is there any difference in sustain/resonance?

 

[musicispeace]

Thanks for all the input everyone.

As Cagey suggested, it seems unlikely that a Strat could end up neck heavy due to the overall architecture of the guitar and position of the strap button on the horn, but I just wanted to check.

A couple of other questions:

1) I know it’s almost entirely a personal thing, but I am looking into the fatback neck profile. I am somewhat torn as to whether to go for the traditional 1 11/16” or to go for the 1 3/4” nut width? Does anyone have any experience of either specifically with the fatback carve? My concern would obviously be that the 1 3/4” could be too wide or have too much girth. Any thoughts would be welcome.

2) Are the Earvana nuts worth it? Have people who have tried them noticed a difference (for better or worse) in intonation not only near the nut but across the neck? It also looks like the nut slot is cut somewhat differently for these than a regular Strat nut. Is it possible to buy replacement aftermarket Earvana TUSQ nuts for the nut slot that Warmoth cuts if the original wears out?

Thank you for all the help and advice

The link below should take you to the forum picture I posted showing a fatback and a standard thin side by side in Neck Woods. I have both necks. I went with 1 5/8 width because I figured that would work with the added depth into the palm of the extra wood in the fatback. I feel I slightly notice the added space between strings from 1 5/8 to 1 11/16 but it is subtle. I imagine that a wide fatback would indeed be more like a classical guitar feel. The fatback is a chunk of timber for sure but I now feel comfortable on either it or the standard thin. They are very different but that is OK so far. As to "neck dive", for a strat with a roasted maple neck I don't think you should have an issue.


https://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=29557.0

 

[Rick]

I really recommend that you hunt down "The Aaron"'s shoot out vid.  As to which has more sustain, you'd need to be scientist.  It's like there are incrementally different flavors.  You gotta watch that viddy.

 

[rdb93]

Hi all,

I’m now ready to finalise my order.

One final question. Do people have recommendations on good high gear ratio machine heads/tuners? From what I can see, I can get any size hole drilled.

They would need to be 6 in line, available in left handed, and ideally non-locking.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Rick]

Hip shot open back locking tuners with ump plate staggered posts if possible.  Reviews on this website.  They have non locking which look awesome.  I just put a left handed set on jazzmaster and they are great. 

 

[rdb93]

Thanks Rick, do you have a link please?

 

[BroccoliRob]

Dawg have you considered the G-Tech (Graph Tech) Ratio tuners? Theyre calibrated per string and seem straight BOSS af. 've read nothing but good things. Anne Frankly my dear, I crave them .

 

[Rick]

Sorry only using my phone, can’t do links.  Search for hipshot tuner under my name I did a review 5 years ago.