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Neck Finish Newb

Gecko 5

Newbie
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Hey all.
New here, first post.
Although for MANY years my main bass was a Gecko. I just ordered and today received my first new Warmoth purchase.
A 4 string Jazz neck.
I'm doing my project on a real tight budget. Therefore I bought it unfinished, thinking I would finish it myself.
After getting the neck, I REALLY like the feel of the raw wood. Its maple with rosewood.
I know my warranty is "'null and void" if I don't finish it.
Will I harm the neck by not finishing it?
I bought 2 cans of Nitro from Stew-Mac.
What is the easiest, least messy ways to finish the neck?
I've read about some of the wipe-on finishes here.

Whats a "newb" to do?
 
We were just discussing the odds on that the other day, and even Warmoth says the number of unfinished necks that do the "pretzel act" is about 10%. So, you've got a pretty good chance that it won't go south on you. But, for what they cost and how attached you can get to one, even a small risk is probably unacceptable. Maple, in particular, is funny. For as hard and dense as it is, it's surprisingly squirmy stuff.

Why not shoot it with the nitro you bought? It's just a neck. It's not like you'll make a huge mess finishing it. Just be aware that you have to let it cure for at least a week, preferably two, before you start manhandling it.

You could also finish it with Tru-Oil, which is a wipe-on finish. You'll probably end up spending a lot more time doing it that way, though.
 
The easiest finish on the planet has to be Behlens Master-Gel.
3 hours between coats and 1 day wait to play. Wipe on with a rag. Feels and looks great.




 
I did 4 on my maple / ebony neck ( strat ) and it's been great for over a year. Maybe 2 yrs. Can't remember.
No need to go extra thin on the coats. Just don't make any runs or be excessively thick and it dries really smooth.
I buffed it very very VERY lightly with a scotch brite light grey pad ( 1000 grit ) in between coats, just to make sure there were no dust bumps.

I play it every day without fail. If it gets sticky I just wipe it down with a damp towel. MG is alcohol and water resistant.

It's no messier than any other finish I suppose. I didn't have any problems with it, but I make a point of wearing non latex type gloves so I've never really gotten it on my skin. I just throw the wipe on rags away. I use little 2" to 4 " square cloth, folded once or twice and just hold that to the top of the can and turn the can over to wet the rag.

Pictures here:  http://www.sightsea.com/renders/maple_neck/



 
I'm gonna try this stuff. If I can find it now.

Is it okay to do the back of the neck with the Behlens and leave the headstock bare?
 
Anything is OK ... but it's so easy to do the headstock and make it match I'd see no reason to leave it bare.
I'd worry about it getting dirty, even dust getting into the pores, and if it got something spilled on it ... I'd much rather have it finished.
 
Gotcha. Great help. Thank you.
Last question(I think). What do I need to mask off?
Do you just stop at the face of the fingerboard?
On the headstock where the fingerboard tapers off, that generally is done right up to the nut, right?
 
Gecko 5 said:
Gotcha. Great help. Thank you.
Last question(I think). What do I need to mask off?
Do you just stop at the face of the fingerboard?
On the headstock where the fingerboard tapers off, that generally is done right up to the nut, right?
That is how they are usually done, yes. It's really personal preference if you're doing it yourself.  My Warmoth finished neck has the finish on all of the core wood, plus the fingerboard edges (side dot territory) and above the nut.
 
Here's a few links to Behlen Master Gel:
http://www.amazon.com/Behlen-Master-Gel-Finish-12-oz/dp/B004K2STBQ
http://www.garrettwade.com/behlen-self-sealing-master-gel-finish-top-coat/p/99P15.24/
http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=packard&Category_Code=finish-behlen-gf
http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12382
 
I sent an email to sales asking what they reccomend.
I got a response from Spike.
He said Tru Oil Gunstock Finish, which someone mentioned here
aswell as on talkbass.com.
I can find that locally.
Will that give me the same results?
 
I've never finished my own wood before, but I have heard great things about Tru Oil, and that's what I would use if I had a neck that needed a finish.
 
The reason I switched my plan from Tru Oil to Master Gel was not wanting to have to wait so long for curing.

I think T O is a much more demanding finish in the work and wait dept.

I didn't mask anything.
 
Heres an update.
I decided to go with the Nitro in a sprat can.
Soooo easy to work with.
Came out perfect(to me).

Heres my question....
I masked off the fretboard. What is the best way to clean the edges of tge fretboard?
There is some nitro on the edges, and some residue from wetsanding and maybe some of the polishing compound I used right up to the frets.
Is there something I should use?
Steel wool? Fine sand paper? Any chemical?
 
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