[Neck] Finish = greater stability?

[Bruno]

If I understand, someone on the forum said that mahogany, maple neck (or other woods that require finish) without finish has an increased risk of less stablility or twisting.
I misunderstood?
More stability is also given with a oil finish (tung o true oil o simply **oil finish* ?
Thanks



ps.:
I read Warmoth page *finish or not*, but I ask you for a real feedback, based on direct experience

 

[jackthehack]

That is correct for any neck wood choice labeled "requires finish for warranty" from Warmoth. Those woods proclivity to absorb moisture can lead to warpage without a hard finish.

 

[Bruno]

Right on time!
To better understand: if those woods haven't hard finish certainly will lead to warpage?
If not, you know in what percentage?
Thanks

 

[AutoBat]

really depends on usage, weather conditions, and luck.

 

[Bruno]

especially  luck  :blob7:


I would apply:
-  2/3 hands of *tura pori* (primer in English?)
- oil (olio paglierino) and wax

(not tung or true oil, simply vegetal oil).

So... "primer", oil and wax (suggestions of a restorer)
What do you think?

 

[DangerousR6]

really depends on usage, weather conditions, and luck.

This is probably the best explanation. I have 2 all birdseye maple necks that have relatively no finish on them, I've just put a light rubbing of lemon oil on them. And have had them for years with no problem at all, still straight as an arrow.

 

[Bruno]

It' s true, best explanation is: LUCKY
I don't know really... I don't know

My real problem is the budget.
I could buy a Goncalo neck and I resolved... but I've never seen and I ask me: if it's smooth as I hope?
I already bought a raw neck (pauferro) and is fabulous, but it costs much.
Finish neck...no, because I like to modify the headstock.
So maple/indianrose unfinish (tura pori + olio paglierino + wax) or Goncalo.
Or nothing...

p.s.:
ok, i know that all wood sounds different... but never mind at the moment)

 

[-CB-]

goncalo is a great wood for necks - its a softer toned attack, somewhat warmer neck than maple or mahogany.  I like it Tele's with solid bodies and bright pickups.

I've got one goncalo neck that is very tight grained at the fret board, and another that is not.  They both play very well, but based on that - I can see going a dark rosewood or ebony on the fretboard for a goncalo neck, if the fretboard texture is important to you .  It bothers me not, as both are very smooth.


Smooth feeling finishes can be had with lacquer from a rattle can.... and a little light sanding after a while.  They come out feeling like silk.

If you do a very thorough job with 100 percent tung oil, you'll have a pretty good seal on the wood - but no warranty.  It also feels like silk, but be prepared to grain fill, and put on many very thin layers of oil over a period of maybe several weeks to a month.

 

[Bruno]

If you do a very thorough job with 100 percent tung oil, you'll have a pretty good seal on the wood - but no warranty.   It also feels like silk, but be prepared to grain fill, and put on many very thin layers of oil over a period of maybe several weeks to a month.

Thanks.
Only a thing: If I buy a raw maple neck, I'll not use the TUNG oil.
I'll use only *turapori* (primer? I don't know in English, sorry) and *olio paglierino* (vegetal oil) + Cera d'api (Wax)

To be honest, my problem is not a guarantee of Warmoth (30days or 1 years).
If unfortunately the neck (raw or finish) should have a problem... shipments in U.S. (go and back) costs almost more than buy it again (or more....)
So, let 's return to our starting point: **TO BE LUCKY**

 

[-CB-]

100 percent pure tung oil is a better item to use

The product you describe is known here in the USA as one form of "danish oil", which is a light solvent, and dissolved wax.  The solvent carries the wax into the pores of the wood where the solvent evaporates, leaving the wax behind.

If you get pure tung oil, and dilute it half or more, it will soak in.  Use that for coat #1, all the rest use full strength.

To be fair, I use dissolved wax Danish oil on the neck of my Adamas (high end Ovation, about two thousand these days).  Thats what the factory used, and thats what they recommend using from time to time to keep the finish fresh.  On the other hand, its a five piece neck, mostly mahogany, with maple stiffener and ebony accents... and as such has more stability due to the opposing grain structure.

 

[stubhead]

There 's a gunstock finish called "Tru-Oil" that Warmoth counts as a hard finish, and offers somewhere around 3 times the moisture protection of a simple oil. It's made by Birchwood Casey, and one little 3 oz. bottle would do at least two necks, so even if the shipping is expensive, it's not. Expensive. The only downside is, you really can count on it taking a month or so to cure. You wipe it on 5 or 6 times over a week, then wait. And wait. And wait some more. You can do a wipe-on poly finish over a couple of days, and it'll be hard in two weeks.

 

[bagman67]

100 percent pure tung oil is a better item to use

The product you describe is known here in the USA as one form of "danish oil", which is a light solvent, and dissolved wax.  The solvent carries the wax into the pores of the wood where the solvent evaporates, leaving the wax behind.

If you get pure tung oil, and dilute it half or more, it will soak in.  Use that for coat #1, all the rest use full strength.

To be fair, I use dissolved wax Danish oil on the neck of my Adamas (high end Ovation, about two thousand these days).  Thats what the factory used, and thats what they recommend using from time to time to keep the finish fresh.  On the other hand, its a five piece neck, mostly mahogany, with maple stiffener and ebony accents... and as such has more stability due to the opposing grain structure.

And what does one cut the tung oil with to dilute it?

Bagman