Neck Adjustment

[Ozopart]

My Warmoth Tele build (built in fall of 2022) with a maple neck and fretboard has the following issue:
The strings are noticeably closer to the fretboard near the headstock than they are closer to the body. Do you think this is a truss adjustment, or do I need to do some adjustment of the bridge?
Thanks!

 

[Rick]

For me getting the action right is a dance between how does it sound coming out of the speaker and how does it feel when I play. On the guitar in my signature it took me 2 years to get it perfect. I wish I had a checklist, but I don't. Take measurements then fiddle with it and see what happens. If it's not going the way you want then bring it to tech. I'd probably start by lowering the bridge.

 

[Ozopart]

Thanks, I will do some work on the bridge today. It seems to play well but has some issues at times with staying in tune.

 

[triple jim]

If a guitar's nut is cut properly, the strings are always closest near the head.

 

[Scab Pickens]

Hold the neck sideways against a bright light from both directions. Look at the top of the frets as they go along the length of the neck. Do you see an obvious curvature upwards from the heel to the nut? If so, that might need a truss rod adjustment.

It seems to play well but has some issues at times with staying in tune.

I think you might have "other" issues, then. I can't see tuning stability being linked to a truss rod adjustment.

Since you provide absolutely no information about which bridge you are using, which strings you are using, which tuners you are using, what the actual neck/nut is, etc., it is extremely difficult to provide any advice.

 

[Ozopart]

Hold the neck sideways against a bright light from both directions. Look at the top of the frets as they go along the length of the neck. Do you see an obvious curvature upwards from the heel to the nut? If so, that might need a truss rod adjustment.



I think you might have "other" issues, then. I can't see tuning stability being linked to a truss rod adjustment.

Since you provide absolutely no information about which bridge you are using, which strings you are using, which tuners you are using, what the actual neck/nut is, etc., it is extremely difficult to provide any advice.

Here is some additional info:
(1) Bridge: Gotoh Vintage Tele® Bridge with “In-Tune” Saddles
(2) Hipshot Tuners
(3) Stringjoy Strings: Stringjoy Signatures Balanced Medium Gauge (11-50) Nickel Wound
(4) Standard Nut - GraphTech Black TUSQ XL
(5)





Tele® Replacement Neck

Construction

Modern

Shaft Wood

Maple

Fretboard Wood

Indian Rosewood

Nut Width

1-11/16" (43mm) - Modern Medium

Right / Left Handed

Right-Handed

Neck Back Profile

Boatneck

Fretboard Radius

10" - 16" Compound

Number of Frets

22

Fret Size & Material

SS6150 - Wide & Tall (Stainless)

Tuner Hole Size

Schaller/Modern Fender/Sperzel (25/64")

Inlay Shape

Standard Dots

Inlay Material

Cream

Side Dots

White Side Dots

String Nut

Standard Nut - GraphTech Black TUSQ XL

Mounting Holes

Standard 4-Bolt

Neck Heel Shape

Tele® Shape

 

[TBurst Std]

Just measure your relief. Grab 2 capos. Place one at fret 1, place the other highest up as possible. If you only have 1 capo, use your finger about fret 15. Measure the difference at fret 7 between the top of the fret and bottom of the string. If it’s more than .007 (easily measured with a feeler gauge), then yes you may have too much relief.

Now measure your action. Leave the capo on fret 1. Measure your action at fret 12. A safe setting is E at 3/64 progressing to 2/64 at your e.

Your tuning issues, as noted are unrelated to your initial issue.

 

[TBurst Std]

You failed to note of your tuners are locking. If not are you doing the cross over lock before the 1st wind?

 

[Scab Pickens]

Stringjoy Strings: Stringjoy Signatures Balanced Medium Gauge (11-50) Nickel Wound

Have you ever adjusted the truss rod? With a heavier set of strings like that (especially at standard tuning) it wouldn't surprise me if it needed a little tweak. However, you don't mention anything about high action being a problem, so ... I don't know exactly what the issue is. Do you see an obvious upwards bow in the neck? It sounds like if you think it plays fine, there is no issue. So, the real issue is that it won't stay in tune? If that's the problem, you might need a little nut work for the heavier gauge strings or at least a little lube (Nut Sauce!) if you haven't been using any. Hard to tell what your problem actually is.

 

[Rick]

What big T said.

 

[Ozopart]

You failed to note of your tuners are locking. If not are you doing the cross over lock before the 1st wind?

Hi Mark, hope all is well with you. They are locking tuners.

 

[Ozopart]

BTW, I don't really have a significant issue with staying in tune, just occasional. I probably shouldn't have even mentioned that. Really the only issue, and even that maybe isn't one if it isn't causing a problem, is that the action is higher further up the neck towards the body. It really isn't causing a problem for me, I was just wondering if it was unusual, or indication of an issue needing adjustment.

 

[ruscio]

On the tuning stability, the pre-cut TUSQ nut may need some filing to accommodate the string gauge you're using. I think they intend them for 9s, and 8s or 10s may work alright, but 11s could be binding in some of the nut slots.

 

[ruscio]

I don't think it's unusual for action to be higher at higher frets. To some extent it has to be that way so that strings can vibrate w/out buzzing when you play on the lower frets. Hard to say, w/out pics or being able to feel it, whether the difference in action across your neck is too much, just right, or even too little.

 

[TBurst Std]

Measure it as I laid out earlier.

 

[aarontunes]

It's 100% normal for the action to be higher towards the body, and lower towards the nut. The action can also vary along the length of the neck depending on how the relief is set. It's a balancing act.

Check if the nut is cut properly by placing a capo at the third fret. Once in place, your strings should just barely clear the first fret. Next, MAY-SURE the relief following the instructions @TBurst Std provided.

Once those are sorted, it's matter of making adjustments until everything is balanced to your individual preferences. Sometimes it takes a while with new guitars. There is a settling-in period.

 

[TBurst Std]

Oh and as a sub note, make all the measurements in a playing position