Mustang Build.
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dmraco
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BigSteve22
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My pleasure Brother.DMRACO said:
You say that like it's a bad thing. Think of it as taking the deer and making venison stew at the same time! Real time saver, that......... :icon_jokercolor:Cagey said:
Cagey
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Hehe! Point taken.
The only real downsides to using high working voltage caps are size and cost. If neither of those are issues for the user, then by all means, whatever's in the Drawer of Misfit Parts is fair game, from little matchhead-sized ceramics to paper and oil parts the size of a roll of dimes. It's the capacitance of the part that's important to proper circuit operation.
The only real downsides to using high working voltage caps are size and cost. If neither of those are issues for the user, then by all means, whatever's in the Drawer of Misfit Parts is fair game, from little matchhead-sized ceramics to paper and oil parts the size of a roll of dimes. It's the capacitance of the part that's important to proper circuit operation.
dmraco
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I have the neck. I think I am going to keep the CBS shape since the vintage mustangs came that way.
I am debating two things.
1. Should I put some amber on the neck? I think it would look good with the Wenge fretboard. It will also give a more vintage feel.
2. Knobs. This photo shows some cream knobs. I have some black ones too. Thoughts??
I enclosed this photo of a vintage unit for reference. The photo of mine does not show the cream color well. It looks more white in the photo.
I am debating two things.
1. Should I put some amber on the neck? I think it would look good with the Wenge fretboard. It will also give a more vintage feel.
2. Knobs. This photo shows some cream knobs. I have some black ones too. Thoughts??
I enclosed this photo of a vintage unit for reference. The photo of mine does not show the cream color well. It looks more white in the photo.
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Logrinn
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Cagey
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Yeah, sometimes knobs can be like shoes - you really have to try them on for size to know if they're gonna work out. Luckily, they're usually not expensive, so the losers can go into the Drawer of Misfit Parts for some future project, or as goodwill generators for the friend who needs something that'll work RFN.
Day-mun
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I played around with knobs for mustang, including the creme colored ones pictured above, white witch-hats, and chrome Tele knobs, but it really seems that on a 'stang, they ought to be black IMO. other than the J-bass/Jag/Mustang style knobs, I kind of like the '72 custom/deluxe amp-knob-lookin' things, -which I have installed on my 'stang currently. The control plate is wide enough to provide enough of a framing background for the larger, skirted knobs. -Plus, they might go nicely with that big CBS headstock!
dmraco
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I have the black mustang knobs. Maybe I do one of each? 
I put the amber on the neck. Clear will have to wait until I get home from Nashville. The back of the neck will be a satin poly. The front will be gloss. I ordered some Fender Mustang water slides for the headstock. I figured since I am going as true to form as the Fender, ( except for the pickups) I should put a proper water slide on.
I put the amber on the neck. Clear will have to wait until I get home from Nashville. The back of the neck will be a satin poly. The front will be gloss. I ordered some Fender Mustang water slides for the headstock. I figured since I am going as true to form as the Fender, ( except for the pickups) I should put a proper water slide on.
dmraco
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dmraco
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I wired it like this and it seems to be making clean sounds on all the spots of the switch positions.
Can someone explain the series/parellel switch.
For example, when I have the bridge pickup selected, if I have move the series preset switch shown on diagram, to the middle or top position, it activates the neck pickup too in combo with the bridge. I assume it activates both pickup regardless of the pickup selector switch.
I never really under stood this wiring...Thanks in advance.
By the way I used 330 pots since I have both Humbucker and single coil. Trying something new.
I also could not use that MASSIVE orange cap. It was too big for the tiny controller cavity. I tried to squeeze it between the tone knob and jack but it was constantly hitting the input jack.
Can someone explain the series/parellel switch.
For example, when I have the bridge pickup selected, if I have move the series preset switch shown on diagram, to the middle or top position, it activates the neck pickup too in combo with the bridge. I assume it activates both pickup regardless of the pickup selector switch.
I never really under stood this wiring...Thanks in advance.
By the way I used 330 pots since I have both Humbucker and single coil. Trying something new.
I also could not use that MASSIVE orange cap. It was too big for the tiny controller cavity. I tried to squeeze it between the tone knob and jack but it was constantly hitting the input jack.
dmraco
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I just looked it up. This is what I did.
So how can we make the wiring more user-friendly while serving up sweet tones? There are many mods out there, but my favorite is shown in Fig. 1. We’ve configured several guitars this way and our customers have been pleased. In this wiring, we skip the pickup phase options and convert one of the switches into a conventional pickup selector switch. This yields three combinations:
• Bridge pickup alone
• Bridge plus neck pickup in parallel and in phase
• Neck pickup alone
This is the same switching matrix you’ll find on almost any Telecaster and it offers classic Fender single-coil tones.
The second switch is converted to a preset switch. When set closest to the neck, the preset switch overrides the 3-way pickup selector switch. This override setting engages both pickups in series (in phase) for a fat and loud solo tone that’s also suitable for some nice jazz playing. The remaining two positions on the preset series switch are inactive and don’t affect the 3-way pickup selector switch.
So how can we make the wiring more user-friendly while serving up sweet tones? There are many mods out there, but my favorite is shown in Fig. 1. We’ve configured several guitars this way and our customers have been pleased. In this wiring, we skip the pickup phase options and convert one of the switches into a conventional pickup selector switch. This yields three combinations:
• Bridge pickup alone
• Bridge plus neck pickup in parallel and in phase
• Neck pickup alone
This is the same switching matrix you’ll find on almost any Telecaster and it offers classic Fender single-coil tones.
The second switch is converted to a preset switch. When set closest to the neck, the preset switch overrides the 3-way pickup selector switch. This override setting engages both pickups in series (in phase) for a fat and loud solo tone that’s also suitable for some nice jazz playing. The remaining two positions on the preset series switch are inactive and don’t affect the 3-way pickup selector switch.
dmraco
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Ok so I have been playing this thing for a few hours tweaking the action and adjusting the neck (which is pointless since I will have to string it up lefty to the future owner. A few points.
I have these ferrite magnet pickups from GFS. On the clean channel that have suck a great twang to them. the neck could be a little hotter but I may need to raise the pickup height a bit too. When you throw some gain at them they sing! They are very quiet too considering.
The wiring is growing on me. Essentially it is working like a normal guitar with a three position switch. When I move the other with to the 1st position it over-rides the pickup selector and give me a massive boost. Both pickups are on but this is much more "power" when I use the pickup selector in the middle position for both pickups.
Since two if the positions are not being used, and I have a coil tap wire for the humbucker I would like to see if I can get that thing tapped. I contacted the author of the article in Premier Guitar that had the diagram. We will see what he says.
The Bridge that Day-Mun provided is very cool. Little slits on the saddles allow for PERFECT string alignment allowing you to move them over a few mm at a time. Very slick.
The wrong neck is fast too. Stainless frets and it feels very quick.
Right now this Mustang rocks and the short scale is very cool to play.
On a down note the whammy sucks. It never returns to a "home" position unless you give it a slight tug up. The hardtail may be the way to go.
I have these ferrite magnet pickups from GFS. On the clean channel that have suck a great twang to them. the neck could be a little hotter but I may need to raise the pickup height a bit too. When you throw some gain at them they sing! They are very quiet too considering.
The wiring is growing on me. Essentially it is working like a normal guitar with a three position switch. When I move the other with to the 1st position it over-rides the pickup selector and give me a massive boost. Both pickups are on but this is much more "power" when I use the pickup selector in the middle position for both pickups.
Since two if the positions are not being used, and I have a coil tap wire for the humbucker I would like to see if I can get that thing tapped. I contacted the author of the article in Premier Guitar that had the diagram. We will see what he says.
The Bridge that Day-Mun provided is very cool. Little slits on the saddles allow for PERFECT string alignment allowing you to move them over a few mm at a time. Very slick.
The wrong neck is fast too. Stainless frets and it feels very quick.
Right now this Mustang rocks and the short scale is very cool to play.
On a down note the whammy sucks. It never returns to a "home" position unless you give it a slight tug up. The hardtail may be the way to go.
