Mooncaster guys - which switches fit this d**n guitar

kbobb

Newbie
Messages
21
OK so a standard switch doesn't work/fit.  got an L-shaped Gibson brand switch - did the string thing to get it up to the switch hole but it won't " make the turn" once it gets up in the cavity - the switch lever comes part way out but it will not turn the full 90 deg. to get the threads up thru the hole. Yes I did remove the plastic switch lever cover.  can't reach up thru the access cavity to grab the switch and force it thru.
So what exact brand and exact model of switch did you all get to work in this body?

This guitar is a PITA - why doesn't warmoth just cut a d**n access hole under the switch area like the Les Paul has been doin for a million years?  Also trying to find a jack plate that matches the contour of the body is seeming to be impossible. 
 
It definitely seems that an access hole for the lower horn switch would be a no brainer... I've seen a few threads like this, but none that ever landed on a solid solution. I'll be watching this thread with interest. In the meantime, if I pull the trigger on the Mooncaster I've been mulling over I'll probably go for the main cavity switch location. Sorry for your frustration, this seems like a very sticky wicket in an otherwise killer design.
 
Verne Bunsen said:
...if I pull the trigger on the Mooncaster I've been mulling over I'll probably go for the main cavity switch location...

We await with baited breath!

(Would love to do one of these gits myself one day.)
 
Gotta tag this thread to follow!!!
I have a Mooncaster sitting in my storage unit just waiting for the time and parts to complete. 
Good luck and keep us posted...
:rock-on:
 
Can you get to the threads on the switch handle? If so, drill and tap a 3/16 steel rod to the correct size and thread it on through the hole. Then you may be able to work it out safely.
 
Verne Bunsen said:
if I pull the trigger on the Mooncaster I've been mulling over I'll probably go for the main cavity switch location.

That would be best - wish I'd have known about the problem with the switch prior to ordering this body.  Am going to take it to a pro luthier and see what they can do.
 
gentlemen,

There is a thread on the board about what switch works best and how to get it in there.  I'm at work right now so I can't do a search, but please have a look around before you give up.
 
Best method I've seen yet.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxr9E56qyjg
This is part one, all the rest can be found at
http://www.tvjones.com/how-to-videos.html
 
Mayfly said:
gentlemen,

There is a thread on the board about what switch works best and how to get it in there.  I'm at work right now so I can't do a search, but please have a look around before you give up.

Read the prior threads on this topic - tried exactly what they recommend but not sure if the switch is the same make/model.  And if getting the switch in is a bear getting it out requires breaking the switch (as per the prior posts)

Also it's not my guitar, trying to help someone out, so I really don't want to screw anything up.
 
TonyFlyingSquirrel said:
Best method I've seen yet.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxr9E56qyjg
This is part one, all the rest can be found at
http://www.tvjones.com/how-to-videos.html

These are good videos - only difference is this guy has a guitar with about a 2" deep cavity to turn the switch around in.  The mooncaster cavity is about 15/16" deep in the lower horn and the switch needs 13/16" clearance (that's just the part in the cavity - doesn't include the nut threads and lever -total height is more than 1.5") - an awfully tight fit and getting it to turn is tough and it can't go in straight.  I grabbed the switch lever with forceps but had to pull/squeeze so hard on the threads I did not want to ruin those.  As stated - not my guitar and I don't want the switch to get in there with ruined threads - sound even worse trying to get it out.  if this was my guitar I'd just cut an access hole in the back and be done with it.

I hope Leo Fender didn't design the Starcaster - seems really impractical compared to his prior practical designs.
 
the above post should say " pull/squeeze so happy face the threads"  don't know where that "happy face" came from?  it won't edit that out though.

edit - did it again - the words that should go in there are "hard"  and  "on" - when you put those 2 words together it must be an automated edit.  now I see what happened
 
kbobb said:
the words that should go in there are "hard"  and  "on" - when you put those 2 words together it must be an automated edit.  now I see what happened
But you can say wood.....  :icon_scratch:
 
kbobb said:
if this was my guitar I'd just cut an access hole in the back and be done with it.
Joe Gore had the same problem with one he built. He mentions that his luthier did just what you are talking about to bail him out. He even has a photo of the back of the guitar showing the cover on the back (paragraph 3). If i had one, that's what I'd do. Joe Gore Kischcaster article
 
Rgand said:
kbobb said:
if this was my guitar I'd just cut an access hole in the back and be done with it.
Joe Gore had the same problem with one he built. He mentions that his luthier did just what you are talking about to bail him out. He even has a photo of the back of the guitar showing the cover on the back. If i had one, that's what I'd do. Joe Gore Kischcaster article

Would be quite easy with the appropriate sized bits and a simple LP rear access control plate.
 
Rgand said:
Joe Gore had the same problem with one he built. He mentions that his luthier did just what you are talking about to bail him out. He even has a photo of the back of the guitar showing the cover on the back (paragraph 3). If i had one, that's what I'd do. Joe Gore Kischcaster article

I really like with he did with the Kitschcaster.  :icon_thumright:
 
Glimmer said:
Rgand said:
Joe Gore had the same problem with one he built. He mentions that his luthier did just what you are talking about to bail him out. He even has a photo of the back of the guitar showing the cover on the back (paragraph 3). If i had one, that's what I'd do. Joe Gore Kischcaster article

I really like with he did with the Kitschcaster.  :icon_thumright:
Yeah, he got it right with those TV Jones pickups.
 
kbobb said:
So what exact brand and exact model of switch did you all get to work in this body?

I recently put one together that used that L-shaped Switchcraft part that Gibson uses, and while it wasn't any fun getting it in, I managed it. Did the string thing, fishing it through that way. The switch had to be switched to one side or the other rather than straight up in the center position to get the angles right, but that was it. Only thing I didn't like was it doesn't sit flush to the top. It's not bad, but once you know about it you can't unsee it. If there were an access panel, something could have been done to prevent that. 
 
Cagey said:
kbobb said:
So what exact brand and exact model of switch did you all get to work in this body?

I recently put one together that used that L-shaped Switchcraft part that Gibson uses, and while it wasn't any fun getting it in, I managed it. Did the string thing, fishing it through that way. The switch had to be switched to one side or the other rather than straight up in the center position to get the angles right, but that was it. Only thing I didn't like was it doesn't sit flush to the top. It's not bad, but once you know about it you can't unsee it. If there were an access panel, something could have been done to prevent that.

Thanks - I did switch the lever upward to induce it to go thru the hole but was pulling so hard I thought I'd ruin the threads or splinter the wood/chip the finish on the top- what did you use to pull it thru - needlenose or forceps or..?.

Also I looked up inside there and the wood is not routed/cut smooth and flat so yes that would explain why it doesn't sit flat - I am expecting that on this one also.  A shame cause the rest of the guitar is so nice.
 
Back
Top