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Mod Tele bridge to be toploader?

Floyd_Argus

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Is it a reasonable DIY mod idea to drill my own string holes on the backside of this Gotoh Tele style bridge to enable top-loading of the guitar strings? Or more tricky than it seems? I have a Dremel so I could smooth/de-bur the new holes to mitigate string breakage on the new holes.



I already own a set of 6 barrel style saddles that are designed to accomodate top loading, that could replace the stock saddles on this bridge. On these barrels, the string passes over to the right of the center point, so I'm thinking the new string holes should be located to the right (and lower) of each pre-existing saddle screw. Can anyone confirm? Any insights?

 
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As long as you can drill those holes accurately, there's no issue with just drilling out your ashtray bridge.

No comment on exactly where to drill as your setup is probably different from mine...
 
Those are some of the worst saddles ever designed... make sure you can drill them such that they make good contact with each other and/or consider using a small dab of shellac/lacquer/nail polish between them to keep them from leaning and rattling.
 
Those are some of the worst saddles ever designed... make sure you can drill them such that they make good contact with each other and/or consider using a small dab of shellac/lacquer/nail polish between them to keep them from leaning and rattling.
Are you saying all saddles of this design-type are terrible, or just this specific product? What are the reasons? And what would you recommend instead?
 
Are you saying all saddles of this design-type are terrible, or just this specific product? What are the reasons? And what would you recommend instead?
That design type. That is a relic of CBS era Fender design and it’s best left in the past IMHO.

Because the screws are offset from the string path, and there’s no grooves in the bridge plate for the intonation screws, the saddles like to migrate sideways. On top of that, the wound strings contact the springs, so you have to be careful during string changes to not bind them up.

If you’re retrofitting a bridge that has the typical Strat style saddles or block saddles (screw location and string path are the same) the holes won’t be in the right location so you’ll NEED the saddles to lean sideways to get the strings lined up on the fretboard. You also won’t have a ton of room between the screw heads to drill the new holes, and you’ll need to drill the new holes as low as possible to get a good break angle.

Once all is said and done you’ll also notice they like to flip themselves over during string changes and have a propensity to rattle, hence why many people learned to glue the together with the aforementioned lacquer.

TLDR leave those bad boys in the 70s and get a proper top loader with three intonated barrels. I scoured eBay for a takeoff J.Mascis bridge, which is the only Fender stamped, top-loader-only (no string thru holes) bridge in production currently.


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That design type. That is a relic of CBS era Fender design and it’s best left in the past IMHO.

Because the screws are offset from the string path, and there’s no grooves in the bridge plate for the intonation screws, the saddles like to migrate sideways. On top of that, the wound strings contact the springs, so you have to be careful during string changes to not bind them up.

If you’re retrofitting a bridge that has the typical Strat style saddles or block saddles (screw location and string path are the same) the holes won’t be in the right location so you’ll NEED the saddles to lean sideways to get the strings lined up on the fretboard. You also won’t have a ton of room between the screw heads to drill the new holes, and you’ll need to drill the new holes as low as possible to get a good break angle.

Once all is said and done you’ll also notice they like to flip themselves over during string changes and have a propensity to rattle, hence why many people learned to glue the together with the aforementioned lacquer.

TLDR leave those bad boys in the 70s and get a proper top loader with three intonated barrels. I scoured eBay for a takeoff J.Mascis bridge, which is the only Fender stamped, top-loader-only (no string thru holes) bridge in production currently.


View attachment 68132

Great info, thanks. Not TLDR by the way.

If I instead get a more traditional set of barrel saddles that uses 2 strings per barrel - so 3 barrel saddles total, drill new holes for these 3 new barrels (which will locate btw each if the 3 pairs of existing saddle screw holes) and then use the existing saddle screw holes as the string holes, that could work but I am worried that the existing 6 saddle screw holes aren't located far enough down on the backplate to create sufficient break angle. Thoughts?

EDIT: found a pic online of tbe backplate of that bridge you posted. Looks like the string holes ARE located lower on the backplate than the saddle screw holes are. Darn, so my idea of using the existing saddle screw holes as string holes probably won't work, not low enough for string break angle.

 
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Yup. However your idea of reusing the screw holes could work, especially if you shim the neck pocket. It’s a question of how much you want to modify to get the existing plate to function outside of its original intent
 
Yup. However your idea of reusing the screw holes could work, especially if you shim the neck pocket. It’s a question of how much you want to modify to get the existing plate to function outside of its original intent
I am pretty committed to using this particular Gotoh bridge because it is heavy in weight - its made of brass - which is going to offset the current neck dive the guitar experiences because its semi-hollow body is light compared to the neck.

To the point that I will use this bridge as a string-thru-body config if I have to. Was just hoping to not have to.
 
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