Minwax Polycrylic?

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

I'm considering using this on my Baritone tele neck.  Maple Shaft, rosewood fingerboard.
Obviously, the fingerboard will be taped off and left unfinished.

Any thoughts or experience with this product?
Is this considered a catalyzing, or hard finish?

Even though I've painted before, it ain't my bag baby, so I could use some councel.

Thanks,

http://www.minwax.com/products/interior_clear_protective_finishes/polycrylic_protective_finish.html

 

[mayfly]

I used this finish on this:

Was easy to apply and turned out well.  I'm pretty careful with this guitar so can't comment on durability.

 

[Watershed]

I have used it for furniture.
It's definitely not catalyzed.

I found it easy to work with and reasonably durable.
I'd probably go with the spray option.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

I have used it for furniture.
It's definitely not catalyzed.

I found it easy to work with and reasonably durable.
I'd probably go with the spray option.

Any recommendations or links for rattle can catalyzing clear finishes?

 

[Watershed]

I have used it for furniture.
It's definitely not catalyzed.

I found it easy to work with and reasonably durable.
I'd probably go with the spray option.

Any recommendations or links for rattle can catalyzing clear finishes?

Hmm, if I remember correctly, this place should have one:
http://www.tcpglobal.com/
If not, it's still a great resource.

These guys also have a catalyzed clear in rattle can form:
http://www.alsacorp.com/

Both are urethanes though; very different animal than waterbased.
I know CB had been plugging one as well.

If you don't mind me asking, why catalyzed?
Yes, it is very durable stuff, crosslinking, etc.
Perhaps there is another reason though.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

My TFS6 is a catylized acrylic finish, been my main guitar for 15 years, had well over 500 gigs, plus rehearsals, recording and even playing in church worship services.
There's barely a ding on the front and the only reason there is one on the back is because of a particular belt buckle.
It's proven itself over the years and that's why I like it.
Just a preference thing is all.

The Alsa Corp stuff looks interesting though.

 

[Cletus]

My TFS6 is a catylized acrylic finish, been my main guitar for 15 years, had well over 500 gigs, plus rehearsals, recording and even playing in church worship services.
There's barely a ding on the front and the only reason there is one on the back is because of a particular belt buckle.
It's proven itself over the years and that's why I like it.
Just a preference thing is all.

The Alsa Corp stuff looks interesting though.

It's a good thing you had that guitar well finished for the church service, you need to protect it from SATAN!

 

[Watershed]

My TFS6 is a catylized acrylic finish, been my main guitar for 15 years, had well over 500 gigs, plus rehearsals, recording and even playing in church worship services.
There's barely a ding on the front and the only reason there is one on the back is because of a particular belt buckle.
It's proven itself over the years and that's why I like it.
Just a preference thing is all.

The Alsa Corp stuff looks interesting though.

Hmm, catalyzed acrylic.
I've used some of the ML Campbell products:
http://www.mlcampbell.com/products/categories/clear_topcoats
Problem is that none of it is in an aerosol.

Perhaps I am misusing the term "catalyzed" when applying it to a 2 part urethane.
Here's one:
http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm
I'm just calling the 2nd part the catalyst.
That's probably like calling 2 part epoxy "catalyzed."

But, the SprayMax is about as tough as you will get in an aerosol can.
Likely different than a catalyzed acrylic, though.

 

[tangent]

Minwax polycrilic is an acrylic urethane hybrid..  it is not 'catalyzed' in the same way that a catalyzed polyurethane is, but it does not need to be because the nature of the acrylic resin makes it cure much faster than a traditional uncatalyzed poly. 

Polycrilic and other acrylic/urethane products are cross linked and have durability/hardness equal to or better than to standard polyurethanes, they also have better clarity and gloss than any polyurethane (acrylic has higher gloss potential than any oil based finish).  The downside of acrylic modified urethanes is that they have less resistance to strong solvents and less resistance to heat.. but unless you often spill toluene/xylene on your guitar or expose it to temperatures above 150C that shouldn't be a problem. 

Catalyzed polyurethan has more hardness than standard polyurethane because the acid catalyst both speeds curing and increases the prevalence of cross linking, however true catalyzed poly is much more difficult to work with and involves more hazardous chemicals.  Also you will never find a true catalyzed poly in a rattle can because they have very short pot life once the catalyst is added, true catalyzed poly is always a 2 part system which you mix right before use.. many of the things sold as catalyzed poly are actually acrylic or alkyd modified urethanes.  =)

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Very helpful info, thanks guys.

 

[Watershed]

Minwax polycrilic is an acrylic urethane hybrid..  it is not 'catalyzed' in the same way that a catalyzed polyurethane is, but it does not need to be because the nature of the acrylic resin makes it cure much faster than a traditional uncatalyzed poly.  

Polycrilic and other acrylic/urethane products are cross linked and have durability/hardness equal to or better than to standard polyurethanes, they also have better clarity and gloss than any polyurethane (acrylic has higher gloss potential than any oil based finish).  The downside of acrylic modified urethanes is that they have less resistance to strong solvents and less resistance to heat.. but unless you often spill toluene/xylene on your guitar or expose it to temperatures above 150C that shouldn't be a problem.  

Catalyzed polyurethan has more hardness than standard polyurethane because the acid catalyst both speeds curing and increases the prevalence of cross linking, however true catalyzed poly is much more difficult to work with and involves more hazardous chemicals.  Also you will never find a true catalyzed poly in a rattle can because they have very short pot life once the catalyst is added, true catalyzed poly is always a 2 part system which you mix right before use.. many of the things sold as catalyzed poly are actually acrylic or alkyd modified urethanes.  =)

Good stuff, although it does seem to me that there are some 2K urethanes in a rattle can.
http://www.alsacorp.com/products/killercans/sc/speedclear.htm#2ktech

But in all fairness, this is a $40.00 can and a rather specialty product.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Well, now I'm wondering if just using the Minwax Polycrylic would be the best bet and simplest?  Hard finish, wipe on/wipe off, rub out.  I don't play out as much as I used to but I still want good protection and a decent gloss finish.

 

[Watershed]

The finish on my table is holding up well.
It would be an east start.

I also found KTM-9 (available at LMI) to be easy to work with (it's waterbased) and durable.
No rattle can option, but you can run it through a Preval unit.

Some of these waterbased finished have come a long way.
Woodcraft also carries a decent range of finishes that may suit your needs.