Marshall cab clone/they shoulda made a....

[swarfrat]

So I started combing FB/CL/Ebay/Reverb for Marshall 1965a's and 1966a's. I briefly considered 1936's but apparently they're beamy/tubby, and they're not often priced aggressively. Same with the 65/66's. I JUST missed a white 1965a for $150 because someone had painted it black and it looked like crap, but appeared to be in decent shape otherwise.

But it's got me thinking. Other than the occasional beat to crap 1960A for $350ish, which is still kinda big, it's not looking like a multi-speaker box around 24x24 that looks appropriate with a head (I have a Marshall Lead 12, and a JCM800 2204 project I've been thinking about pulling out of the closet) for under $300.  So maybe build? I found some drawings for dimensions and getting the baffle looking right.  But I'm kind of torn. So far the options rolling around my noggin are:

1) 1965a clone (4x10, probably use Warehouse ET-10's in it)
2) 1966a clone (2x12 diagonal, probably use ET-65 or greenbacks)
3) A vertically aligned 2x10 in a 1965a/1966a size box. (25"x25")
4) A vertically aligned 2x12 in a 1965a/1966a wide box that's 1960a height (25"W x 30"H)

I'm really most drawn to the last two options, which to my knowledge have never been made by Marshall, but especially #3. (They did make a 1960 sized 2x12 called the 1961, but I'm really not interested in that - vintage collectible drawbacks with none of the advantages, and it's as big as the real deal.)

Curious as to the collective opinion, particular if you have experience with the WGS 10" options.  I tend to run my 800 tones on the tight side (who doesn't?)  What think ye? A straight up 1965A clone is probably the LEAST attractive option to me, as 1) it's easily the most available, 2) also has the highest parts cost, and 3) between 1 and 2 is also teetering way too close to the build vs buy argument.  The 1966 is a bit harder to find, so 2 vs 4 really boils down to OCD/Diagonal speakers/dispersion/aesthetics of taller cab.  I don't really have a dog in the 10 vs 12 fight, except for the fact that you have a lot less options to chose from if you go 10.

 

[pabloman]

Check out Sourmash Guitar Cabs. Almost not worth building your own with their prices and options.

 

[swarfrat]

So it turns out option 4 is really the 2061cx, how did I miss that one? Too bad they don't make a smallbox sized head. Oh well,it means there's one less project.

 

[Kostas]

The cost effective factor in building a 4x12 is not the build itself but the cost of 4 good speakers. If you buy 4 new speakers they will cost more than a used cab.

If you are in the USA there are tons of options. Mojotone makes a 2061cx and they probably do a matching head. If they don't I believe you can custom order it. Just one of several US shops that do custom work, over the years I have seen quality work from many different small brands.

I would choose a 4x12 over a 2x12 everytime if I didn't need to move it, I actually have one for years and I'll never get rid of it. I had all types of cabs, even now I have an 1x12 that sounds bigger than it is, it sounds spacious and much bigger than a 2x12 I sold. Still, it's not a 4x12, nothing is.

 

[swarfrat]

Yeah... floor space is at a premium right now in the music room. And I've always loved those 1965 size cabs. But I'm thinking about selling or storing the drum kit, setting up with an electronic drum kit and real snare/cymbals so - that would free up a ridiculous amount of space.

Going back to my 800 project. It's in an 18w head chassis already. Sourmash makes a 21" w head for that chassis. Which has me thinking about building again. A 21" W, 2x10 combo, either vertical or diagonal, could be really cute. I really wanted to do white tolex, but that looks best in the JC800 style head with black grille cloth and white logo. The gold logo on white tolex versions I can't decide if they look classy or pretentious. oh well, black still looks sharp.

I'd probably never need a second cab, but a pair of such cabs could be a sweet ticket.

 

[swarfrat]

So I dug out my chassis, faceplate, and have done some more digging around. It really makes the most sense to use what I have. But ... I just can't get past that I like the JCM800 style head baffle better than the JMP.  Unfortunately, my chassis has lips bent outward, which kind of forces me into a JMP style. That and my Ceriatone faceplate is ink/paper behind plexi, so it's not going to look like silkscreen on brushed anodized aluminum. But I think I do like the look of the cloth baffle over the tolex baffle on the head. Surely the inside radius on the baffle is easier in cloth than tolex.

I've pretty much gotten around build vs buy by telling myself I kind of want it to look factory except that Marshall never made one exactly like it. But I have a 17"W x 2.5H" x 8"D chassis, a matching faceplate, and I'm thinking I want a head matching the cabinet and a cabinet about 22-24" Square.

 

[pabloman]

How far do the wings stick out on the chassis? I bet you could get away with using 1/2" sides and then use two 1/2" strips to get you back up to the 1 1/2" thickness for aesthetics while providing you with an inch to cover up the wings and the edge of the chassis. You'd need a new faceplate that extends the full length of the chassis but that just gives you an excuse to get an anodized one.

 

[swarfrat]

Theh're 1.5" per side? Yeah i can do that. they stick out about 3 /4" per side. I can notch it at the front. My drawings don't show that and i just didnt think it could possibly be that thick.

 

[swarfrat]

Doh. I have a Lead 12 sitting right here in the music room. Head cabinet is 1.35" thick in front including tolex, but only 1/2" thick shell, so.. yeah. Lips out can still work in a JCM800 style head/baffle. And I was *this* close to buying a 27" steel chassis on the theory 'ah screw it, the gold standard is the 412 anyway.'

 

[swarfrat]

Trying to decide if a 4010 on a closed back 112 would be the ticket. Also trying to decide if Boogie style cane and white tolex would look cool, awesome or just 'whatever floats your boat'.

 

[BigSteve22]

Trying to decide if a 4010 on a closed back 112 would be the ticket. Also trying to decide if Boogie style cane and white tolex would look cool, awesome or just 'whatever floats your boat'.

Aside from the "Whatever floats your boat" angle, (which I fully support), I think if you can get some white piping between the gold face and the cane, it would look awesome! See attached pic.....

 

[swarfrat]

More sketches - the black sure don't look bad, and the fabric is probably easier to work than wicker.
Not settling, just not sure which I like better (4010's also look awesome with a large check grille)

 

[TBurst Std]

White/wicker cane/ gold always looks good.  I redid an old Carvin X100 like that. 

 

[swarfrat]

Yeah, it does. I updated to include a black grille with white tolex, and it does look quite sharp, (I can't get to like the black Marshall logos for some reason.) But after looking this over I think I like the wicker better. I'll probably ditch the Marshall logo too, since the knobs and corners are about the only parts which are genuine. I don't think it really works on the cane grill.

Current plan is for a WGS Reaper 50. But the search committee is still out on that. Not all speakers do well in either open or closed, and I'm really looking for something that does a nice tight Marshall clean without being too shrill, and I can just add the extension cab when I want it to chunk. This is definitely a lower gain 800 type project and not a high gain (even by 80's standards) project. This amp should live between 3 and 6, occasionally in the 8-10 range.

 

[BigSteve22]

Current plan is for a WGS Reaper 50.....

I just ordered a Reaper 30 for my VHT. Spoke to the guys at WGS, (very helpful, BTW), that was their recommendation for a low watt, open back combo, playing classic/progressive rock and blues. Got generally good reviews, we'll see. Good luck with yours!  :icon_thumright: