Mahogany SG for jackpax non-Warmoth

[Tonar8352]

I'm doing a SG for jackpax. I had to mix the filler using Neutral Filler from LMI along with the powdered aniline dye. I have to use a mortar and pestle to grind the color into the filler to get the color I'm after. Here it is being filled and after it is wiped off with the burlap.

 

[Cagey]

Looks good! What color dye is that?

 

[Tonar8352]

Luthiers Mercantile International FSTR.  http://www.lmii.com/products/finishing/dyes/aniline-dyes-alcohol-soluble I ground it with paint thinner before I put the paste filler in and ground that all together. This is the neutral filler I used. http://www.lmii.com/products/finishing/filler/chemcraft-pore-filler. The key is doing it in the mortar and pestle so you can grind the pigment into the filler. 

 

[Cagey]

Thanks!

I have a 7 string Mahogany SG body/neck that's still raw and I'm torn between a finish like you're doing here and going radical with with an opaque caution yellow, or maybe white. The grain is nothing outstanding, so hiding it under a solid color wouldn't be much of a loss. But, maybe filling it that way would bring something out.

Actually, the more I think about it, I could color the filler like you're doing here and see what happens. Worst case, it's already filled and ready for a solid color coat.

 

[Tonar8352]

Since its a 7 string, not a typical SG animal I respectfully submit that you do it in a Doghair finish. I can walk you through it. I think that finish kills!

 

[Cagey]

Interesting. I've seen that sort of thing done with red/black on an Ash body, but of course the grain is much more prominent in that wood. You're right - since it's an unusual guitar, it should probably have an unusual finish. What's involved with getting that effect?

 

[Tonar8352]

Once the finish sanding is complete  blow the surface clean and make sure there is no sanding dust in the open grains, you want them as clean as possible. After that you do a wash coat of black lacquer and really let that dry in. Next shoot the black lacquer until the surface is opaque but do not get it on too thick or you will start filling some of the grain with finish. Let that set for a couple of weeks so the finish has a chance to really cure and shrink in to the surface. Now comes the fun! Take the same neutral filler that I used and get some white UTC colorant like this http://www.lmii.com/products/finishing/dyes/universal-tints and use that mortar and pestle trick to grind the tint into the filler until it is white. Then apply it just like you would with any job that needs grain filler. The hard part is being careful not to burn through the black lacquer when you wipe off the excess filler with the burlap. Let it set for a couple of days and give it a couple of wash coats of clear and if it needs more filler hit it again. Now just shoot it with clear until it is level and ready to wet sand and rub out.

 

[Cagey]

Excellent. Thanks! I think I can handle that.

 

[Tonar8352]

Neither I or Jack was happy with the cherry filler and how I felt it would get me close to the actual color he wants in the end on this guitar so I sanded back the Cherry Red filler and switched to the Seagraves Mahogany. This looks good and will be a base color for the blood red that I am shooting for in the end. Here it is getting lacquer dropped into some wood blemishes that I could not get steamed up. Once this is all level I'll get the color coat on it.

 

[Cagey]

I thought the cherry filler looked good. What was the concern? Gonna be too dark in the end product?

 

[Tonar8352]

The cherry red was to bright and clean of a red.  We are after more of a dark blood red.

 

[Cagey]

Ok. Well, just so you know, you can tint lacquer  :laughing7: