Mahogany Neck w/Rosewood Fretboard finishing

[fishbonetabby]

First of all, the build quality on the neck I got from Warmoth is absolutely stunning. I’m going to start the finishing process tomorrow. One thing I’m really unsure about is the neck heel. I was planning on masking the neck heel where it screws into the body until the last final coats of clear nitro where I’ll cover it lightly just to protect the wood.

I’ll be filling the grain with Z poxy and finishing the neck with clear nitro. I’m anticipating at least 2-3 coats of grain filler before I start building the nitro. Is there any benefit to putting down a coat of vinyl sealer between the z poxy and nitro? I’d love to hear how others would approach finishing this neck.

 

[Rick]

Me ... sides get finished but ... I leave the base where the heel mates with the body unfinished. Wood against wood.

 

[teleme01]

I learnt a little bit of stuff in the pocket can cause a chip breaking off

 

[fishbonetabby]

Me ... sides get finished but ... I leave the base where the heel mates with the body unfinished. Wood against wood.

Def was going to finish the sides but mask the face of the fretboard. Been watching the Driftwood finishing videos pretty closely.

 

[stratamania]

A finish too thick on the sides can also interfere with the neck being able to fit into the pocket.

I have used Z Poxy to fill grain on a body, followed by a primer before building the colour coats. So, dependent on whether using clear or coloured nitro, I would use a primer or sealer after grain filling. The benefit of a sealer or primer is you can get a level surface with it quicker and more efficiently than wasting a lot of nitro that will sink in more and, over time, can continue to do so.

But for a neck, I would go for something else such as Birchwood Casey Sealer and Filler followed by Tru Oil.
Even if I used nitro for a neck I would not use Z Poxy as a filler as due to the shape of a neck I don't think it is a suitable medium.

 

[fishbonetabby]

A finish too thick on the sides can also interfere with the neck being able to fit into the pocket.

I have used Z Poxy to fill grain on a body, followed by a primer before building the colour coats. So, dependent on whether using clear or coloured nitro, I would use a primer or sealer after grain filling. The benefit of a sealer or primer is you can get a level surface with it quicker and more efficiently than wasting a lot of nitro that will sink in more and, over time, can continue to do so.

But for a neck, I would go for something else such as Birchwood Casey Sealer and Filler followed by Tru Oil.
Even if I used nitro for a neck I would not use Z Poxy as a filler as due to the shape of a neck I don't think it is a suitable medium.

I was planning on using tru oil originally but after contacting Warmoth they told me that it would void the warranty so that’s why I went with nitro. Also, I’m in the final stretch with the body and at this point starting to feel really confident with my spraying technique. My plan for the sides of the neck heel was to essentially only pass over it lightly. I’m looking to protect the wood only in that area. I’ll also be sanding in between spray days so I don’t anticipate it building up to that point if I’m careful enough.

 

[stratamania]

@fishbonetabby okay please let us know how you get on.

 

[fishbonetabby]

@stratamania for sure! Decided to spend another few days researching and testing on scraps. My first two choices were Tru Oil and wipe on poly. I read too many bad reviews on the feel of the poly. At the end of the day the warranty is only one year so I’m not sacrificing a whole lot using Tru oil esp if it’s adequate for protecting the wood. I’m really drawn toward the idea that you can just re apply is whenever you want down the road to touch up or refine.

 

[bagman67]

I have a couple necks finished with Tru Oil and have found them comfortable to play and as steady as one might hope from a non-warranty-voiding coating. I am, of course, merely a single data point (technically, three data points); but I have had good luck. That said: I have only had these guitars in a fairly dry climate (SF Bay Area, San Diego, and Nevada). If you live someplace where the humidity fluctuates wildly, you may want to see how others in similar circumstances have fared.

But really, the tru-oil-voids-the-warranty admonition is for Warmoth's comfort in the long term over many, many sales. Chances are slim you would have any issues.

 

[fishbonetabby]

I have a couple necks finished with Tru Oil and have found them comfortable to play and as steady as one might hope from a non-warranty-voiding coating. I am, of course, merely a single data point (technically, three data points); but I have had good luck. That said: I have only had these guitars in a fairly dry climate (SF Bay Area, San Diego, and Nevada). If you live someplace where the humidity fluctuates wildly, you may want to see how others in similar circumstances have fared.

But really, the tru-oil-voids-the-warranty admonition is for Warmoth's comfort in the long term over many, many sales. Chances are slim you would have any issues.

Single or triple datapoint aside I appreciate your insight and you taking the time to share your experience. Despite Warmoths policy it seems Tru Oil is reliably tested and proven to be adequate.

 

[bagman67]

Happy to share whatever I can with our new members. Give us some time, we'll grow on you. Like mushrooms on a downed tree. Or something.

 

[NedRyerson]

I personally would not use Zpoxy on a neck. It'll be too plastic-like, and the risk of poor application technique is too high*. My personal preference (and please note that this is the 2nd occurrence of the word "personal" in this post which should provide a clue ) would be to leave the wood raw if I had to choose between raw & Zpoxy.

Adding nitro or any kind of lacquer or polyurethane or polyester on top of the epoxy would be just a waste of material and nothing more than a placebo effect. As well as introducing more steps where mistakes could be made.

(though placebo effects would be perfect for TGP, but I digress )

I agree with Bagman in that WM has to put the disclaimer out there to protect themselves contractually, but to me, it's like that California Prop 65 thing where they have to say that everything has the statistical chance of causing cancer, no matter how insignificant that statistical probability may actually be. I've finished both WM and non-WM necks in Tru-Oil and I've yet to be disappointed from a player perspective.


* not intending to be aimed specifically at the OP, but more for posterity's sake in that I assume future readers will pop into this topic 10 years later and think, "I could totally do that....."

 

[stratamania]

@fishbonetabby most of my Warmoth necks are done with Tru-oil. Even the one in my signature, which is mahogany. It originally had a gloss Warmoth finish, which I removed first. You can see what happened in the build thread, which is linked in the signature.

 

[Spud]

I prefer a few coats of satin wipe on poly and have had no problems.

 

[fishbonetabby]

I had some de waxed shellac laying around and decided to give this method a rip and commit to finishing with the cans of nitro I already have. Nothing is set in stone yet until I test on some scraps. I was able to acquire a mahogany plank to test on/harvest saw dust from. I'll be testing the z poxy as well just as a comparison but after the feedback and a little more research I don't think that stuff is ever going to touch this neck. I'll post pictures of my testers and keep the board updated with my progress. There isn't a whole lot of info that I've come across regarding finishing mahogany necks so hopefully I can add to that discussion by sharing my experience.


Here is the method I'll be testing:

 

[Spud]

I had some de waxed shellac laying around and decided to give this method a rip and commit to finishing with the cans of nitro I already have. Nothing is set in stone yet until I test on some scraps. I was able to acquire a mahogany plank to test on/harvest saw dust from. I'll be testing the z poxy as well just as a comparison but after the feedback and a little more research I don't think that stuff is ever going to touch this neck. I'll post pictures of my testers and keep the board updated with my progress. There isn't a whole lot of info that I've come across regarding finishing mahogany necks so hopefully I can add to that discussion by sharing my experience.


Here is the method I'll be testing:

Well mask up and hope you have heated shop!

 

[fishbonetabby]

Well mask up and hope you have heated shop!

I got a mask alright. That goddamn nitro is no joke. I do not have a shop but I do have a front porch, a space heater and a very understanding wife. I warm the porch up to where it needs to be, remove anything that could ignite the nitro then I spray. When I’m done I exit the front door and leave it open a bit to air out. 5-10 mins later when it’s dry to the touch I bring the guitar inside to a drying room that’s warm and safely ventilated. It’s not ideal but it works!!

 

[Spud]

I got a mask alright. That goddamn nitro is no joke. I do not have a shop but I do have a front porch, a space heater and a very understanding wife. I warm the porch up to where it needs to be, remove anything that could ignite the nitro then I spray. When I’m done I exit the front door and leave it open a bit to air out. 5-10 mins later when it’s dry to the touch I bring the guitar inside to a drying room that’s warm and safely ventilated. It’s not ideal but it works!!

I am not a scientist doctor, but be careful spraying in an enclosed area with a space heater. There is possibly a flash point that could be reached.

 

[fishbonetabby]

I am not a scientist doctor, but be careful spraying in an enclosed area with a space heater. There is possibly a flash point that could be reached.

Oh it’s bad alright. You are absolutely correct. I take the heater out when I spray as well as the electric cable and anything else really. I even make sure the incandescent light is off also. 5-10 mins after I spray I bring the guitar inside to dry then I’ll open the porch door all the way to air out for another 10 mins. After that I’ll bring a fan out to the porch to air it out even more. About 15 mins before I spray I close the door and bring the heater back in. I’ve been spraying in the 68-70F range with humidity in the low 40% range. It would be nice to have a booth with an explosion proof fan but I only spent like $7 to whip this spot together so I feel like it’s a decent compromise.