LSR Nut questions
- Thread starter rauchman
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While it is technically possible for us to cut an LSR slot on a Tilt-back neck, it's a really bad idea. They weren't designed for that application. The exaggerated downward angle of the strings behind the nut causes them to lay on the back edge of the nut....which sort of defeats the whole ball-bearing/low-friction thing.
rauchman
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The Aaron said:
Thank you. Would Warmoth cut the nut slot for this https://abm-guitarpartsshop.com/ABM-GUITAR-PARTS/Accessories/Nuts/Roller-Nuts/ABM-7021c-Chrome::335.html?
If not, what is the next best option for a Strat headstock tiltback for use with a trem?
stratamania
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If you want to use a tremolo, a tilt-back headstock is contrary to having good tuning stability regardless of the nut. Unless of course, you use a locking nut.
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rauchman said:
We could, but it's expensive for Warmoth to do the R&D for something like that. You'll either have to wait until there's enough demand for us to justify the expense (not likely any time soon)....or be wiling to pay the expense yourself.
If you're looking for optimum tuning stability on a non-locking, Strat-style headstock, I would say the first, best measure would be to get a flat headstock, rather than tiltback. Then get a TUSQ nut, and locking tuners (maybe with staggered posts to avoid the need for string trees). Once your guitar is assembled, pay a local luthier to finesse the nut slots, and that's about the best you can do.
If you absolutely have to have a tiltback headstock, I would consider getting a locking trem system like a Floyd. If that's out of the question, then follow the same steps as above: TUSQ nut, locking tuners, finesse.
rauchman
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The Aaron said:rauchman said:
We could, but it's expensive for Warmoth to do the R&D for something like that. You'll either have to wait until there's enough demand for us to justify the expense (not likely any time soon)....or be wiling to pay the expense yourself.
If you're looking for optimum tuning stability on a non-locking, Strat-style headstock, I would say the first, best measure would be to get a flat headstock, rather than tiltback. Then get a TUSQ nut, and locking tuners (maybe with staggered posts to avoid the need for string trees). Once your guitar is assembled, pay a local luthier to finesse the nut slots, and that's about the best you can do.
If you absolutely have to have a tiltback headstock, I would consider getting a locking trem system like a Floyd. If that's out of the question, then follow the same steps as above: TUSQ nut, locking tuners, finesse.
Very much appreciate the help. I'm curious as to why a tilt back Strat shaped headstock, where the strings have no lateral dispersion, is inferior compared to a standard straight Strat type headstock? Sorry for all the questions, but I would have assumed having more consistent break angle for all the strings across the nut on a tilt back would have been "better".
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The popular theory is that the greater break angle over a tiltback nut results in more friction across the nut, hence a greater chance of tuning problems. Flat headstocks generally have a shallower break angle, even when using string trees. How much of a difference all that makes in practice is up for debate.
I say, why bother with any of it, when the cure for all our whammy bar tuning woes has been around since the late 70's. :headbanging:
I say, why bother with any of it, when the cure for all our whammy bar tuning woes has been around since the late 70's. :headbanging:
AirCap
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Because installing and setting up a Floyd nut SUCKS, that's why. There are almost NO setup variations possible for the player by a competent luthier. Shims are not the answer for individual string heights - only averages across the six strings. ALSO, the manufacturing tolerances are NOT acceptable in my book. Way too much variance between parts from even the same maker - let alone from different makers. If you play a guitar equipped with a Floyd nut, you will NEVER get the action just so, and by inference - the intonation will never be acceptable.
The Aaron - I love ya, man - but you are wrong on this. I've been installing Floyds since they came out, and I hate them. Nearly all experienced guitar techs will agree with me - Floyds suck, especially the nut. You work for a great company, man - and it's just your opinion.... but you are wrong on this one (just like you were wrong on tonewood not making a diff).
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My comment was in jest.
I know there all kinds of players out there, with all kinds of preferences. For example, I know there are plenty of people out there who prefer tuning to playing. May God bless them, and bestow upon them whatever kind of non-locking tremolo they prefer. :toothy12:
For me, I'll keep using my Floyds...which stay in tune better than my Les Pauls. :guitarplayer2:
I know there all kinds of players out there, with all kinds of preferences. For example, I know there are plenty of people out there who prefer tuning to playing. May God bless them, and bestow upon them whatever kind of non-locking tremolo they prefer. :toothy12:
For me, I'll keep using my Floyds...which stay in tune better than my Les Pauls. :guitarplayer2:
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AirCap said:
On this we can agree.
ccasion14: To be fair, I do understand/agree with your gripes from a luthier's POV. I just figured I would egg you on a bit and see what happened. :evil4:
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rauchman said:
Just to be clear: Warmoth will not cut an LSR nut slot on a tiltback neck. It is technically possible to do it, but we won't.
TonyFlyingSquirrel
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Locking tuners on a tilt back can stay in tune quite nicely, but you must have straight string pull to the tuner posts and a good, very well set up nut & tremolo system.
If you have a string path that splays off laterally, you'll not likely remain in tune after any tremolo use as the string will have difficulty returning to "zero". Especially the wound strings, as they will certainly bind in the side wall of the nut slot.
You want to eliminate as many friction points as much as possible, and any friction points that remain, you want to remove as much remaining friction as possible.
If you have a string path that splays off laterally, you'll not likely remain in tune after any tremolo use as the string will have difficulty returning to "zero". Especially the wound strings, as they will certainly bind in the side wall of the nut slot.
You want to eliminate as many friction points as much as possible, and any friction points that remain, you want to remove as much remaining friction as possible.
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