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L5s Do Over - Continued

Timv

Junior Member
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Well, some of you have seen the early pics of the L5s build and the body was nearly finished and looking good when I made a rookie mistake. I was at the final leveling polishing stage and the body was looking excellent when I inadvertently sanded through an edge. I tried my best to repair it but just could not get the color to match or blend. Being the perfectionist that I am, it's time to break out the palm sander and hit restart.

It's a lesson learned.
 
Ouch!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Don’t feel bad I had a blow up on the Mary Kaye Strat that I started when a big old black bug flew into it on a final coat of clear.  Right on the face and there was no way to get him out.  I tried to sand it out but burned through.  I tried shading and it look ok but not good enough so it is going to get stripped and redone. The worst part was the finish up to that point was flawless!
 
DAANG! that's not cool...
Well it'l be even better the second time around, right :toothy10:
 
I have found that the third time is when it really comes together.

Naa, just kidding.  I think many of us can share similar examples though.
 
Well, I sanded down to bare wood last night, cleaned up the mess and did a new dye job. Even though the last one came out really good I decided that if I was going to get a do over I would try a burst. I've always wanted a tobacco burst. So I tried this method I found in a web video by a guy who makes Mandolins. I can't remember the link off hand but have it home and will post it, because it worked.

He uses water diluted dyes and puts each different color dye in a shallow bowl. He also has a bowl of plain water. He then makes pads like the kind used in French Polishing for each color. I made mine from an old tee shirt. His secret is that he wets the body good before he starts. He claims, and is right, that the water in the wood disperses the dye so it spreads naturally and takes less work to blend. He was right. I started in the middle with vintage amber, then proceeded to the outside with the dark brown. It worked like a champ. I was able to blend the brown into the amber smoothly with little effort. I then added just a little orange to the area where the brown met the amber. If you get any streaking or places that are hard to blend, use the pad with plain water to lightly go over that area and help the blending. It looks great, just like I knew what I was doing!

Once dry, he lightly sands and seals it with shellac. Then he does a French Polish, which I may try. His finish was beautiful.

This morning after drying for a night I went down to lightly sand and much to my surprise the same spot sanded through, with 400 grit! There must be something with the wood there that just doesn't take the dye well. I easily repaired it using the same method. I guess I'll have to be extra careful around that area.

I'll post a picture once I get some sealer on there.
 
OK, here is where I am at with the L5s. It's been re-dyed and has a couple of sessions of French Polish done. There are a couple of light spots that I'm not thrilled with but can live with. You can see one in the upper bout.

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I like it!
Sometimes, I like the more hand-made look. It makes it seem more personal.
And that light spot? It's a burst of some kind.
trust me.
 
One time, in a past life, my friend, Kenny Jackson, managed to drill a hole right in the top of a new, and very expensive, jig borer machine.  We're talking... oh... $50k in 1970 money for this machine.  So he did what any good machinist would do, he got out a little ball nipple, threaded the hole, screwed in the nipple, and stamped "OIL" next to the hole.

Find an excuse to stick a switch and switch plate RIGHT THERE on the upper bout, or just stamp OIL next to a hole!~
 
Agree with =CB= about finding a reason to place a switch in that lighter area on the upper bout. Nonetheless, a great finish on that guitar. :icon_thumright:
 
Well, after 7 long weeks the neck for the L5s arrived and it was worth the wait. My apologies for the camera phone pictures. It's stunning in real life.

Bubinga with Goncola Alves fretboard, gold frets, compound radius, standard thin.
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4192017121_081cc613a2.jpg


BTW, I was able to fix that light spot on the body.
 
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