Kinda aggravated

[fdesalvo]

Understatement.  Here are some issues.

1.  The Gotoh 510 bridge all the way against the body is still not nearly low enough for the strings to be anything lower than telephone pole height off of the frets.  The string height cannot be adjusted by filing saddles.

2.  With the Gotoh 510 all the way down, you cannot change strings.

3.  White mark under clear near neck pocket.  Looks like glue or a filled chip.

4.  My fault - vintage tint doesn't blend with clear.  Neck and body look awful together from the back.  Oh well.

Honestly, I'm pissed.  I researched the 510 and my particular neck/body setup and didn't see any issues.

 

[stubhead]

The Gotoh 510 bridge consolidates the normal 2-piece bridge and stop tail piece set up into one superbly designed piece. Secure and solid, it sustains extremely well allowing your strings a single termination point. This sleek and compact bridge is an ideal mate for our VIP and LP style carved top bodies. A neck pocket angle of 1-1/2 to 3 degrees is necessary for best set up.

- http://www.warmoth.com/Gotoh-510-Stud-Mount-Bridge-Chrome-P554C706.aspx

:dontknow:

 

[fdesalvo]

That's already good bro. Neck pocket angle is fine. Researched this prior to order.

The Gotoh 510 bridge consolidates the normal 2-piece bridge and stop tail piece set up into one superbly designed piece. Secure and solid, it sustains extremely well allowing your strings a single termination point. This sleek and compact bridge is an ideal mate for our VIP and LP style carved top bodies. A neck pocket angle of 1-1/2 to 3 degrees is necessary for best set up.

- http://www.warmoth.com/Gotoh-510-Stud-Mount-Bridge-Chrome-P554C706.aspx

:dontknow:

 

[Mor Paul]

Have any pics? And sending Rob a message can't hurt.

 

[stubhead]

Yeah, this sounds like something only they can answer. If you ordered a body, neck, and bridge and expressed to Warmoth that they were all going together...?!? Well, I can't fix it. There may be some sort of code on the invoice about neck pocket angle but again, it's their baby now.

 

[fdesalvo]

Thanks, all - cooler heads..I walked away from it with the neck, pickups, pot, and toggle mounted; I'm sure any chance of a warranty is null.  I didn't even think of checking action before proceeding with the former since I could see the angle of the neck sitting in the pocket.  This is my 3rd warmoth guitar; I put them together the same way each time.  Maybe that will have proven to be a costly mistake. 

Either way, I'm getting it as close to completed as possible before taking it to my guitar guy.  The subtleties and nuance of these bridges (any bridge) can elude a goon such as myself.  If my guy tell me that he has to shim the neck, then I reckon I'll reach out to Rob, but for now I don't want to engage.  These guys have been really good to me and I'm willing to overlook that little white nibblet near the neck pocket, but if this bridge won't set up, then that's another story.

I should talk about the positives - the standard thin neck is the perfect carve for me.  The SS frets are lovely.  The guitar is a little neck-heavy actually, which is surprising for a mahogany body of this size.  It's very light - I'm guessing under 5lbs. 

Here are some pics - it's a lil darker in person. 

Highwire.  It's now a little lower and there is a bow in the neck and a very high nut to be taken into account aside from any bridge adjustments.

I installed the threaded inserts without a press and achieved excellent results.  I wouldn't recommend the same method for installing them into a neck.

Nibblet near pocket...

Same nibblet..

All plastic bits will be black - I will have to use a Gibson toggle switch plate because my bit popped a lil chip off of the top.  The hole for my volume pot came out perfect.. 

 

[Jumble Jumble]

Sorry to go off on a tangent, but I'm interested in your using threaded inserts for pickup mounting. I'd really like to do the same for both SCs and humbuckers in a guitar I'm building soon. Can you talk a bit about what parts you used and whether you'd ever do the same thing for humbuckers?

 

[fdesalvo]

I'd like to keep this thread on target as much as possible until I have some sort of resolution. 

I ordered from amazon - there are a few threads around here floating about regarding the size to use, so I can't comment on that at the moment.  I drilled out the pickup and cover to provide a small amount of play in the machine screw allowing me the ability to make small adjustments in postion relative to string path. 

I then placed the pickup in the cavity, lined up the outer E poles with the strings, and used the soft grips of a pair of side-cutters to hold the pickup level and flush against the cavity.  With humbuckers this wont be possible. 

I then drilled small pilot holes, observing orientation of drill.  I then worked up to the appropriate size for the insert and used the T-handle insert tool to install.  I used some high density foam I had lying about and the pickup went in easy breezy.  I also used the rubber tubing that came along with the pickup. 

I McGyvered this - you should use a drill press and observe drilling depth.  I have relatively keen awareness when using hand tools and micrometer-level precision thankfully wasn't required in this instance.  I had gone though the steps in my mind a few times before I started so I was somewhat prepared. 

You may notice the inserts are off center - I did.  Makes me wonder if the neck, bridge, or pickup cavity was cut a hair off..the screws are perfectly perpendicular with the body, so I know the inserts went in perfectly straight.

I would do this again and also do it if I wanted to wood-mount a humbucker.  I'm more of a mounting ring guy, though.  Hit me up via email if you need other details.

Edit -

Sorry about my tone.  I ordered from woodcraft -

12J20 #6-32 Brass Threaded Inserts (10) 2 Shipped $3.69 $7.38
12J15 "T" Wrench for 6-32 Inserts 1 Shipped $5.50 $5.50

 

[fdesalvo]

Updated - I'm certain the neck pocket is angled -  can see the canter of the fretboard against the body/neck pocket and the option is also listed on my invoice "Bridge: Gotoh 510, Angled Pocket, ".  I can only wait..

 

[Jusatele]

what is the radius of that neck ?
Those strings seem real flat compared to the neck
is the 510 radius adjustable and if not do they recommend a certain radius neck to use with it?
did you get a 720 mod?

 

[fdesalvo]

Neck and brdge radii are 12".  I think the strings appear flat because the nut/saddles are adjusted.

what is the radius of that neck ?
Those strings seem real flat compared to the neck
is the 510 radius adjustable and if not do they recommend a certain radius neck to use with it?

 

[Jusatele]

720 mod?

 

[fdesalvo]

No 720 mod ordered, though that *could* explain some of the excessive height I'm seeing. 

That little white niblet...it looks like some of the clear has lifted, but it's perfectly flat - doesn't rise above the surrounding clear...doesn't clear the clear, if you will.  Trying not to think about how pissed off I am.  Have a show next Saturday and planned on using this guitar. 

 

[fdesalvo]

Here's the warranty language.  NOT jumping the gun here, just wanted to know just in case. 

I did go through the steps outlined in the warranty as a matter of common sense.  Everything seemed great.  But the only way to uncover a flaw of this variety is to have the guitar set up - something you do as a final step.  But the bolded text below seems both for and against me.

Bodies:

Our bodies are warranted to be free of defective materials and workmanship for a period of two years from the date of purchase. We craft our bodies from the finest materials and made to be compatible with Fender guitars. Warmoth Guitar Products, Inc. may not be held liable for any work done on merchandise later found to be defective, nor may modified parts be accepted for refund or exchange.

Please read through the following tips to help avoid any unnecessary heartache:

To ensure your complete satisfaction, we urge you to take time to check each feature of your new body to verify that it is suitable to your application. Until you are completely satisfied that this body will meet all your requirements, do not drill, rout, paint or modify it in any way.

Check the scale length. Place the neck in the body and position the bridge over its mounting holes. Measure from the nut to the 12th fret and double this length. The resulting figure should equal the length from the nut to the center of the bridge saddle throw. If there is a discrepancy here, call us now or consult your luthier.

Check the neck alignment. Will the strings be equally centered on the neck? This is done either with a string down the middle of the neck, or by using a straight edge down the sides of the neck. Because all necks don't have the same heel dimensions, some adjustments may be necessary.

When checking the fit between the body and the neck, please remember to allow for the thickness of the finish on both the body and the neck. Very tight fits are not necessary and will probably chip the finish. Be aware that the neck heels and the neck pockets are tapered. DO NOT slide the neck in from the end of the neck pocket. Instead, slide the neck in down from the top.

Check that the bridge holes in the body match the bridge you intend to use.

Guess this says it all...

To be eligible for return all items must be in 'like-new' condition. Items which show wear will not be eligible for a return.

 

[ezas]

Not sure why you are hesitant to engage Warmoth. The Warranty information is going to be as strict as possible to cover them in all cases of dispute. I have not dealt with Warmoth much having only done two guitar, and have not had any real disagreements beyond I wish they offered this or that. But my impression from reading here is that they want you/us to be satisfied and will do what they can to help. Seems to me worse case you will need a shim. Good luck with this.

I'll be following this because I HAD finally decided on a 510 wrap around bridge for a flat top guitar.

I don't know what to make of the 'niblet' but I wouldn't sweat it. In the grand scheme of things it's minor.

+1 on the nice work on the inserts. It's those little things that make even parts guitars 'custom'.

 

[ezas]

Neck and brdge radii are 12".  I think the strings appear flat because the nut/saddles are adjusted.

what is the radius of that neck ?
Those strings seem real flat compared to the neck
is the 510 radius adjustable and if not do they recommend a certain radius neck to use with it?

Actually the Gotoh 510 bridge has a radius of 13.77" going by the Gotoh website which gives the bridge radius as 350mm.

 

[fdesalvo]

Meh close enough.  Not sure what I looked at prior.  :dontknow:

Neck and brdge radii are 12".  I think the strings appear flat because the nut/saddles are adjusted.

what is the radius of that neck ?
Those strings seem real flat compared to the neck
is the 510 radius adjustable and if not do they recommend a certain radius neck to use with it?

Actually the Gotoh 510 bridge has a radius of 13.77" going by the Gotoh website which gives the bridge radius as 350mm.

 

[fdesalvo]

Before I approach them, I wanted to have a professional's opinion.  I apreciate your insight.

Not sure why you are hesitant to engage Warmoth. The Warranty information is going to be as strict as possible to cover them in all cases of dispute. I have not dealt with Warmoth much having only done two guitar, and have not had any real disagreements beyond I wish they offered this or that. But my impression from reading here is that they want you/us to be satisfied and will do what they can to help. Seems to me worse case you will need a shim. Good luck with this.

I'll be following this because I HAD finally decided on a 510 wrap around bridge for a flat top guitar.

I don't know what to make of the 'niblet' but I wouldn't sweat it. In the grand scheme of things it's minor.

+1 on the nice work on the inserts. It's those little things that make even parts guitars 'custom'.

 

[Jusatele]

not a professional
in fact i have assembles 2 guitars
and I choose to finish them myself so I have not had a finish issue, no mater how small I am sure you can be upset.
as far as the bridge/action issue, Have you had a professional look at it.

there is a big matter of a few pictures online to a bunch of hobbyist and having a professional look over it. I assemble mine and bring it to a professional for a complete fret dressing and set up. cost around 2 Bengamins. I figure I am a hobbyist and a hack at best. If there are compatibility problems I get them fixed.

I also know Warmoth is a parts company, and understand warranty issues. I think that an inspection of the product should be done when delivered, you would have had a much better chance of dealing with the small issue you have with a product you had not started work on. But hind site is 20 20

now about posting it here before going to Warmoth about your issues.
First Warmoth and the representatives have proven to be a 1st rate company in the past. making extremely fair policy when dealing with these kinds of issues.
However do you think that you actually helped the issue by going 2 pages worth of complaints and stating how upset you were before going to Warmoth with the issues.
Do you not think that calling customer support would have been the first step?
I mean all I see is a thread about some guy who is upset and has not even called Warmoth, and he started to assemble and modify a body and now he has a issue he will at this point try to return it over a small thing he was willing to ignore before he had issues. Other wise why would he have started the assembly if the thing was an issue?

So. not to be putting you down, but maybe a call to the Turtle would be the next step to see what may be going on about the bridge compatibility?
Maybe instead of drawing a line in the sand, you could find out what is up.

I hope you the best, but I am not, nor are 99.9% of the guys here Warmoth representatives, you need to go to Warmoth, we have no authority or pull at all

 

[fdesalvo]

I appreciate your input, but this is a community filled with ppl with more experience than myself. I should be able to come here for advice and to post my issues, progress, failures and whatever else. If no one posts an issue, then no one can chime in with advice. In that case, what good would that offer a man about to run head on into a similar circumstance?

I've had zero issues with any of the 2 Warmoths and 1 USA/Warmoth hybrid I've assembled and had finished by a luthier. All were playable before the hand off. So I posted my experience with this one and so what if it has a negative connotation?  My posts have been mostly filled with an apologetic tone, highlighting my ignorance of this particular bridge in the initial comment.

As I've stated beforehand, I've already gone through the checklist of receipt an pre assembley, as I have 3 times before. All checked off positively.

I've also stated that I'm taking the guitar to a tech to have a look at it, so I'm not sure if you've read my posts or not. You are leaving me with the impression you haven't. 

As a consumer who likes to be well informed, I look for all angles before making a decision  to invest in such a costly project. I'd be somewhat leary of warmoth if all comments on this board were utopian koolaid inspired drivel.  If I didn't thoroughly enjoy warmoth products, I wouldn't have invested the thousands of dollars I have thus far.

Having said that, I'd like to swing this back round to being on point and ask for more feedback from people that don't mind brainstorming.  Again I appreciate your perspective, but you placed me into a bit of a defensive posture by disregarding key details in my post. No harm no foul brother.