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Is the 34" Jazz Bass Deluxe B String floppy?

soundoholic

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I'm looking to build a 34" scale Jazz Bass Deluxe 5. I'm curious if the Low B string is loose or floppy? I'm used to a 35" scale so I'm a little concerned.

Thanks,
Chris
 
firstly ... I can assure you from personal playing and building experience that if the neck is built correctly, and the bass is set-up properly ... you can have a stellar B-string with 34" or even 33" scale lengths. a 35" scale length does not guarantee a flop-free B. I see no need for 35" scale unless a customer simply like the larger stretch between frets. there's is a sonic difference between the different scales most noticable on the G-string

and to your question ... the W 5-string Deluxe basses I've played that were properly set-up did not suffer from a floppy B IMO. YMMV of course, and will depend on the set-up and string set you utilize

all the best,

R
 
If you go with a heavier and stiffer neck wood such as Bubinga, you'll be on your way to an unbelievable tight and clear B string.

In fact, there's a really nice Bubinga neck in the showcase now!  Please buy it so I can stop drooling over it.  :)

I haven't had much luck with Maple or softer/lighter woods.
 
You can also get a thinner B string single, if you are looking to get a different frequency range. In my experience they seem to have a little more tension. The guy at Birdsong guitars patented a cool through body system that gets a tight B on a 30" scale neck. I've also heard a string retainer can help out on the low B, but I am not so sure its practical.
 
I meant a lighter gauge, .125 versus a .135. I thought effects the decibel output range? A slightly higher frequency? I'm not trying to bullshit, I'd like to know if I am way off.
 
My Lakland Darryl Jones has a maple neck and has a way tighter B string than my Warwick Corvette with a 34" Bubinga neck. So I think it's still up for debate on neck length but I completely agree that overall construction is a big factor.

I was planning on having a Maple neck with a Pau Ferro Fretboard and a string through Swamp Ash body. I am little worried about going with bubinga because of the weight. I really love how light my Lakland is. But I hate the neck dive on my warwick - and the back ache.
 
RIPetrus said:
I meant a lighter gauge, .125 versus a .135. I thought effects the decibel output range? A slightly higher frequency? I'm not trying to bullshite, I'd like to know if I am way off.

I think you've got this backwards.  All other things being equal, a thicker string needs MORE tension to reach the same pitch as a thinner string, so this makes the thicker string feel tighter when you play it.  It also increases the output because you've got more mass vibrating.  

My experiments with low B strings have shown that (within limits) thicker and tighter is better.  Thinner strings or strings at looser tension will feel more flexible, but less defined, especially in the fundamentals.  Usually a .125 sounds less tight and authoritative, even on a good string like DR or D'Addario.  I consider .130 to be a reasonable minimum, while .135 feels and sounds even better.

A thinner string may *seem* like it it has more high harmonics, but that's usually because the fundamentals and low harmonics are softer.
 
I never took physics, looks like I would have failed. So, you tune to a frequency and that frequency has a certain decibel output or pressure wave, I get that. If you are playing a shorter scale you would want a thicker string to get a tighter feel. I going to assume this applies to all scales and I have just avoided buying the wrong gauge strings. I'm thinking I need a medium gauge set rather than a light gauge set to throw on the short scale I am building, in order to keep a feeling tighter than a rubber band.
 
Well not sure if it applies as i built a warmoth z five string deluxe body with a warmoth head five string neck,
but the b string feels in no way floppy to me, just nicely vibrates enough for a good b string sound.

Word of warning if you go rotosounds strings,  i bought a five string long 34" scale set,
and it would not fit through the body on some of the strings( as in they were not long enough at the top), so i had to do top mounted.
So if you go with rotosounds i suggest getting extra long scale set just to give you enough to go through the body itself.
 
Sorry to jack your thread soundoholic. I have a bass with an ash body and a bubinga/mahogony neck with a rosewood fretboard. It dives quite a bit.
 
RIPetrus said:
Sorry to jack your thread soundoholic. I have a bass with an ash body and a bubinga/mahogony neck with a rosewood fretboard. It dives quite a bit.

No worries. I'm going to stick with my Maply/Pau Ferro plan. I play long gigs so weight is an issue.
 
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