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Is It Possible To Remove Dye From Maple?

Cagey

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I have the opportunity to buy a mahogany VIP body with a quilted maple cap, but it has already been dyed and finished in such a way that it would be unacceptable to me. I hate to pass it up, but I'd also hate to have to put an opaque finish over quilted maple and mahogany. I'd end up with all the weight and none of the beauty. So, what I'm curious about is how deep dye typically goes into maple. Is it shallow enough that it could be sanded back to raw again?
 
you will likely be able to get most of it out...some may remain in the deeper gain...this may help or harm you depending on what you want to do next.
 
DMRACO said:
you will likely be able to get most of it out...some may remain in the deeper gain...this may help or harm you depending on what you want to do next.

This is the look the current owner owner was going for... (imagine quilted maple under there)

PS4804C.jpg


and if I get a hold of it, this is how I'd like to finish it...

vipp163C.jpg
 
tfarny said:
You can probably get all the dye out. Maple is pretty hard.

That's what I'm hoping for, but never having tried it I don't know. I know maple is quite hard, and it doesn't want to take stain, but I figure dye is different. Maybe not. I don't know. I'd hate to have to put a million hours into trying to get a decent finish on the thing.
 
I scrubbed the poly and dye of a misbegotten tele headstock recently. It wasn't really that bad compared to some refinish jobs. On a carved top I'd expect a ton more work. Personally I wouldn't take it on - but I'm sure it can be done.
 
tfarny said:
I scrubbed the poly and dye of a misbegotten tele headstock recently. It wasn't really that bad compared to some refinish jobs. On a carved top I'd expect a ton more work. Personally I wouldn't take it on - but I'm sure it can be done.

That was the other thing - all those curves. Hate to sand on the thing too much and end up with inconsistent lines and surfaces. Then a shiny finish would make every imperfection stick out like a sore thumb. But, I just talked to the owner a little bit ago and it turns out the thing wasn't dyed at all. He tinted clears and shot those, trying to make a burst. So, it should be a pretty straightforward stripping job. I just have to find out what cuts Crystalac. Ever worked with that stuff?
 
Cagey said:
I just have to find out what cuts Crystalac. Ever worked with that stuff?

Here's CrytalLac's tech support number:
1 866 218-9216

I imagine they'd be able to tell you what to use to strip one of their finishes.

peace

Bagman
 
bagman67 said:
Here's CrytalLac's tech support number:
1 866 218-9216

I imagine they'd be able to tell you what to use to strip one of their finishes.

Thanks. I'll see what they have to say.
 
If it was originally dyed amber, the red dye will wash it out pretty easily.  You will have to sand it back to keep it from going orange on the light sections, but they sand the quickest.  Removing the other finish, I can't help there, but the dye colors are not horribly dissimilar, and it should work out.  Good luck, and let us know if you figure out the proper finish remover.
Patrick

 
As I mentioned a couple posts back, it turns out it wasn't dyed in the first place. He tinted some clears (of Crystalac), and shot those in an attempt to make a burst. So, I don't have to worry so much any more - it's going to be a straight stripping job. I'm beginning to question the worth of the whole project, though. I think I'd rather take a beating than strip a finish. It is a nice body, though...
 
Yeah, I know. I've done it before a number of times. Still, it's a pain in the shorts. The cleanup alone is enough to put you off it.
 
Cagey said:
Yeah, I know. I've done it before a number of times. Still, it's a pain in the shorts. The cleanup alone is enough to put you off it.

I hear that.
But iirc Crystalac is waterbased lacquer? it shouldn't be much different than removing any other lacquer, and much easier than if it were polyurethane, or polyester(this is the worst stuff to remove.)
 
Yes, it is water-based, although that's really only pertinent at application. Still, as you say, it shouldn't be any tougher to remove than any other lacquer.
 
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