Initial neck adjustments?

[new creation]

Hello everyone! I've got a question for you... When my Warmoth neck arrived, it came with a little baggie containing the truss rod wrench and two pieces of paper. One paper was a Warmoth pamphlet giving some general cautions, the other a paper saying "This Neck Features The New Gotoh Side-Adjuster For easy and convenient truss rod adjustment". This paper cautioned me "Before using your new neck, please read all of the following instructions carefully..." Any thoughts on whether to follow the latter paper's instructions to the letter? Also, what is the best course of action to take in truss rod adjustment during initial string-up/set-up?

 

[SustainerPlayer]

Any thoughts on whether to follow the latter paper's instructions to the letter?

Yes. Follow the instructions. Why would you not?

 

[Cagey]

You say "to the letter" as if there's some aspect you disagree with. Is there some reason you wouldn't follow the manufacturer's directions of how to set up and use the product they designed and built?

The neck is shipped sorta relaxed, so you want to flatten it first so you have a datum point. It's also a good time to check if you need any fret levelling done. They're usually pretty good, but your needs may be more demanding.

 

[new creation]

I say "to the letter" because I might not have the tools necessary to "adjust until the fingerboard is perfectly flat", or, more specifically, to know when it IS "perfectly flat". I'm just wondering what experienced builders do for initial adjustments and whether or not they follow that paper exactly (or are even familiar with said paper). As far as fret levelling goes, I'm not going to be very needy or demanding at this point in time.

 

[Cagey]

I see. Well, a good straightedge is necessary, and not usually something the average person has around. But, you can approximate such a thing by getting your tuners installed, then sacrificing a string to use. You may even need a partner to do this.

If you're on your own, clamp the string in either the D or G tuner, then pull it straight down the neck. Clamp it at the first fret with a capo, hold it down by hand at about the 17th fret or so, and see what kind of clearance you have at about the 8th fret. If the neck is flat, there should be none, but make sure there's no back-bow to the neck by loosening the truss rod just a hair. The string should rise. Now, put it back.

If you have help, you don't need a capo, they can fret the string at one of the points for you.

Once the you're there, you install the thing, string it up, and run the same exercise. This time, though, you're going to want to loosen the truss rod just a hair so you get about .008" clearance.

At that point, you start in with the dreaded bridge setup.

 

[new creation]

Let's say I had already screwed the neck on when I started this thread... I'm confused that they'd recommend adjusting the slotted heel nut before screwing the neck on and applying string tension.

 

[new creation]

Besides, why would one need to adjust the slotted heel nut at all? Isn't that what the side adjuster is for?

 

[AutoBat]

Besides, why would one need to adjust the slotted heel nut at all? Isn't that what the side adjuster is for?

The heel adjust is the coarse adjuster, for larger changes in the truss rod.  The side adjust is the fine tuner, for making small adjustments.

If you don't use the heel adjust we will expect to see your post in a week or so saying "Help, my side adjust won't turn any more!!"


tl;dr: follow the instructions that came with the neck, even if you have to take off the neck to do so.

 

[Cagey]

Let's say I had already screwed the neck on when I started this thread... I'm confused that they'd recommend adjusting the slotted heel nut before screwing the neck on and applying string tension.

It's always easier to release tension than it is to add it. So, since you never want a back-bowed neck and know you want it at least flat or relieved, you wanna start from flat. From there, you release tension to add relief. Plus, as Autobat says, the heel adjust is for gross adjustment, while the Gotoh side adjust is for fine-tuning. If the gross adjuster is off from the start, the fine adjuster may run out of range before you get to where you want to be.

Neck tension adjustments are small. There's not a lot of range to them. So, you want to be as close to correct before you ever install the thing as you can. That way, a tiny adjustment gets you where you wanna be.

On the plus side, one of the advantages to the dual truss rod arrangement you have in that neck is that once it's adjusted, you may never have to touch it again. It's a very stable arrangement.

 

[new creation]

Thanks! That information is actually very helpful. But, now that I've removed the neck, I have another question: with what do I adjust the "slotted heel nut"? I want to be sure to use the proper tool, but I see nothing on Warmoth's website saying what to use. Do I turn something deep in the heel cavity, or only just within it?

 

[Cagey]

Actually, what you have is a "pro" style neck, so the heel adjustment isn't "slotted" like it is with the old "vintage" style necks. It's a hex head, and Warmoth's part uses a 7/32" hex key (Allen wrench) to adjust it.

If you don't have any Allen wrenches, you can get a whole set of the little lovelies at many places for roughly $10-$12. They're tough to buy in single sizes, so you'll have to bite the bullet and get a set. Don't worry - someday, you'll be glad you have them.

You should be aware that tightening (clockwise turns) will bow the neck back, and loosening (counter-clockwise turns) will relax it. You should also know that it takes very little adjustment to get where you need to be. If you have to go more than half a turn or more, you need to wonder if something is wrong. Usually, a 1/4 turn or less will do it. Also, it shouldn't be difficult. If you encounter a lot of resistance, stop. You break your truss rod or strip the threads on it and you're in deep, meaningful sheep dip.

edit: the hex key Warmoth ships with the neck is only for the side adjuster. They don't give you the one for the heel.

 

[new creation]

Ah! Muchas Gracias, Senor! Due to some confusion and hasty (stupid) action on my part, I plan on resetting the side adjuster per Warmoth's instructions (better safe than sorry, right?).

 

[Cagey]

Yes. And don't be afraid to follow their instructions. They really do know better than anybody how to do those adjustments. Also, don't be afraid to ask more questions if you aren't sure of what you're seeing/doing. Necks are precious things.

 

[new creation]

Indeed. It's been a little nerve-wracking throughout the assembly... Especially since it's a Pau Ferro/Pau Ferro.

 

[Patrick from Davis]

I was under the impression that the warning was about not adjusting the side adjuster while under string tension.  That will strip it, and make it no longer of any use.  They warn you not to, but people tend to look over that detail.
Patrick