How long should tru oil dry in between coats/steel wool?
- Thread starter JamesL
- Start date
Kyler (JamesL) said:
This might help if the Tru oil is completely cured you can lightly rubdown with steel wool or scothbrite as long it doesnt have that sticky feeling...But for my case for the initial coats i build up a thicker layer first before I started to rubbing down with scoth brite between coats.. It is safer do this way just my 2 cents..
I'd forget the steel wool, it breaks apart and leaves little tiny bits in your finish. I wouldn't worry about doing anything between your first several coats, try to build it up a bit first. But then that's how i did my tung oil finish, never used tru-oil, so maybe thats diferent. Still, steel wool is a nightmare.
In fact with pure tung oil, i didn't do anything till all the tung oil was on, then I buffed it out to a brilliant shine and baby's butt feel. Not that I'm into feeling baby's butts mind you
In fact with pure tung oil, i didn't do anything till all the tung oil was on, then I buffed it out to a brilliant shine and baby's butt feel. Not that I'm into feeling baby's butts mind you
Thanks guys! You're all the best! :icon_thumright:
It's 11AM here and I just woke up, about to go put on the second coat!
I'm gonna go pick up some scotchbrite on my way to work and I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. :toothy12:
P.S. There's a million different scotchbrite pads..... (okay, well like 5 or 6) This is what first popped into my head, These are the right ones eh?
It's 11AM here and I just woke up, about to go put on the second coat!
I'm gonna go pick up some scotchbrite on my way to work and I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. :toothy12:
P.S. There's a million different scotchbrite pads..... (okay, well like 5 or 6) This is what first popped into my head, These are the right ones eh?
lafromla1
Hero Member
- Messages
- 837
Found this:
SCOTCHBRITE GRIT CHART
3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M Chart
Less Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445 7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer Finish --------> Coarser Finish
SCOTCHBRITE GRIT CHART
3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit
7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
(The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
3M Chart
Less Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
7445 7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
Finer Finish --------> Coarser Finish
:blob7: That is the same Green Scothbrite im using...
As i said build up as much as possible of Tru Oil/Tung Oil during the initial application. These initial layer will serve as a good thick foundation for the following process which Drying--Sanding(scoth brite)---coat after coat process. i know during the initial coats let us say ur on the 4th coats U will notice it will be rough due to dust particle stick on the surface... That is why its important to have a thicker initial layer so that you have enough surface to sand down.
You can lightly wet the scothbrite with water it wil work as Lubricant but not to wet. Remember not to over sand the surface just enough for u to prepare the surface for next application.
Now that you have establish a thicker layer of Thru oil you will notice after rubbing it down with scotbrite, when you apply the next coat of Oil let us say this the 5th coats...you will notice it will be easy to work with and smooth..Then day after day coats---sanding coats after coats..If you have a day job then it will be just nice of curing time..Until you get the thickness you prepare. Finish the last application with WAX to polish...then i rub down some AXE oil to get that wet look.
Im currently on the process of Tung Oil application day by day on the neck which i did the same process..But in my work I stain the neck with oil color then put coats of TUNG OIL see attached photo..
ccasion14:
As i said build up as much as possible of Tru Oil/Tung Oil during the initial application. These initial layer will serve as a good thick foundation for the following process which Drying--Sanding(scoth brite)---coat after coat process. i know during the initial coats let us say ur on the 4th coats U will notice it will be rough due to dust particle stick on the surface... That is why its important to have a thicker initial layer so that you have enough surface to sand down.
You can lightly wet the scothbrite with water it wil work as Lubricant but not to wet. Remember not to over sand the surface just enough for u to prepare the surface for next application.
Now that you have establish a thicker layer of Thru oil you will notice after rubbing it down with scotbrite, when you apply the next coat of Oil let us say this the 5th coats...you will notice it will be easy to work with and smooth..Then day after day coats---sanding coats after coats..If you have a day job then it will be just nice of curing time..Until you get the thickness you prepare. Finish the last application with WAX to polish...then i rub down some AXE oil to get that wet look.
Im currently on the process of Tung Oil application day by day on the neck which i did the same process..But in my work I stain the neck with oil color then put coats of TUNG OIL see attached photo..
ccasion14:
jackthehack
Epic Member
- Messages
- 5,630
Time actually varies with ambient temperature/humidity/thickness of coats applied. I use Tru-oil in the winter when it's too cold to shoot lacquer. In a warm, dry basement you'll never have any problems applying thin coats 10-12 hours apart/2 a day; that's how I finished this as an example:
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=2669.0
http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=2669.0
