Here's my San Dimas shredder spec. Please review and answer some questions!

[ben]

I'm building a San Dimas-style shredder. It'll be lightly finished with dye, oil, and lacquer.

Here are the basics so far:

Body:
Strat, Solid, Alder, Rear Rout, Contoured Heel
2 Duncan wood mount HBs (JB & 59, I think)
1 volume, 3-way switch
Side Jack w/ electrosocket jack
Recessed Schaller Floyd

Neck:

Strat, maple/maple
Warmoth Pro or Vintage Modern
1-11/16”, Standard thin, 10-16”, 22 SS6100 Frets
Black Face & Side Dots
Sperzel tuners
Floyd R4 nut w/ Mounting Holes

Now for some questions:

I'd kind of like a Mahogany body, but feel it’s going to be heavy - what are your experiences with Warmoth mahogany body weights?

Debating the 720 mod - It’ll work fine with the recessed Schaller and 22 fret unbound neck, right?

Assuming it works, Is it just a matter of how high I want the strings off the body? Generally I prefer the slightly higher feel, but should I be worried about how high I’ll have to set the bridge without the mod? I don’t want it to be too “floaty.”

I’m unsure on the neck construction type. I’d only be getting VM for the looks - should I just get the Pro?

Is quartersawn maple worthwhile? Especially on WP construction?

Is the R4 nut ok? It’s the same width as the R3, but wider spacing for unbound necks, correct?

Will I need a string tree with the Sperzels and locknut?

Finally, I’m planning on shimming my Floyd saddles according to this thread: http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=1983.0

Looks like I’ll need 2 shims under the E strings, and 1 under the A and B.

Thanks!!!!!!

 

[MikeW]

Hi Ben. Welcome to the addiction, uhm, I mean, board. I built a Strat based on the San Dimas a little bit ago, so can answer some of your questions. I'll give those a go and leave others for those more knowledgeable.

Body:
Strat, Solid, Alder, Rear Rout, Contoured Heel
2 Duncan wood mount HBs (JB & 59, I think)
1 volume, 3-way switch
Side Jack w/ electrosocket jack
Recessed Schaller Floyd

Neck:
Strat, maple/maple
Warmoth Pro or Vintage Modern
1-11/16”, Standard thin, 10-16”, 22 SS6100 Frets
Black Face & Side Dots
Sperzel tuners
Floyd R4 nut w/ Mounting Holes

Yep. Good start here. Mine is basically the same body and neck woods. The one thing that I would recommend is to go with 6105 or higher frets. You can file down to an acceptable height while finishing the neck, but can't put more back on. The San Dimas models are close to the 6105 size as well.

I'd kind of like a Mahogany body, but feel it’s going to be heavy - what are your experiences with Warmoth mahogany body weights?

I stuck with Alder since Charvel uses either Alder or Basswood for their bodies. The only Mahogany body I've played was an LP and it was far too heavy for my tastes. YMMV.

Debating the 720 mod - It’ll work fine with the recessed Schaller and 22 fret unbound neck, right?

Assuming it works, Is it just a matter of how high I want the strings off the body? Generally I prefer the slightly higher feel, but should I be worried about how high I’ll have to set the bridge without the mod? I don’t want it to be too “floaty.”

I've not played with the 720 mod so I'll leave this one for others.

I’m unsure on the neck construction type. I’d only be getting VM for the looks - should I just get the Pro?

Yes. There are differences of opinion on this but most here think that the Pro construction is more stable, requires fewer adjustments, has easier adjustments due to the side adjust nut and doesn't adversely affect the tone for what you're getting. My advice here is go with the Pro.

Is quartersawn maple worthwhile? Especially on WP construction?

Not required unless you like the look or feel of quartersawn. Just to put a bug in your ear, you might want to consider a Canary/Canary neck instead of Maple/Maple. Not to disparage Maple/Maple but going with the raw tonewoods is a real boon since they don't have to be finished. You get to play right on the wood. Canary has tonal characertistics very similar to Maple as well, so you don't have to incur the price of a finish and still get the same tone and look.

Is the R4 nut ok? It’s the same width as the R3, but wider spacing for unbound necks, correct?

You are correct. I went with the R3 spacing just because I find the R4 spacing to be a bit too close to the fretboard edges for my tastes. Again, YMMV.

Will I need a string tree with the Sperzels and locknut?

No string tree required. If you're not a huge fan of the locking nut, you might consider going with the LSR roller nut. I have a friend who built a Floyd Rose bridge with LSR and locking tuners guitar and it stays in tune really well. No need to have to lock at the nut if not required.

Finally, I’m planning on shimming my Floyd saddles according to this thread: http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=1983.0

Looks like I’ll need 2 shims under the E strings, and 1 under the A and B.

Yep! I didn't believe that shimming the saddles on the Floyd would make a big difference to the playability until I did it. Now, I wouldn't have a Floyd without shimming.

Good luck and keep us posted. Remember, it never got built unless there are pics to prove it.

 

[swarfrat]

Don't forget you can always put the 'Hog on a diet and get it chambered. that should bring rhe weight in line with other woods.

 

[stratamania]

The SS6100 frets mentioned are fine and bigger dimensionally than the suggested 6105s mentioned earlier.

 

[Eric S.]

I have a flame maple on basswood soloist with SS6105 on a Brazilian rosewood board on a quartersawn maple neck.  The quartersawn is worth it. I have an original Floyd with the R4 nut, and feel that the edge distance is correct on my 1 11/16--24.75" scale neck.  Thanks for bringing up the saddle shim idea. I do have a Pro construction compound radius 10-14".  I have yet to adjust the truss rod in the 7 years I've owned it!  :headbang: I am happy for you and your design, good luck. ccasion14: