Help needed with "inventive" wiring for 1-humbucker guitar

[VanHeGen]

As some of you might have noticed, I am planning a guitar build and I have asked lots of questions related that (thanks for all the help so far!). When it comes to the Warmoth build part I am very soon ready to order the body and the neck and I will create a separate "Build thread" for that.

However, I have had an idea for the wiring of the guitar, and depending on if it is doable or not, I will order a "bunch of holes" in the Warmoth body. As a disclaimer, I know nothing about actual wiring and/or logic of how wiring works, so please bear with me! I have created a "logical wiring diagram" that shows how I would like it to work on a high level, but it does not show any real wiring (which I would need at some stage).

So right now I am requesting help from the experts on this forum to verify that this idea for wiring is possible, at least in theory. It looks very different from the wiring diagrams I have ever seen, but here we go:

The guitar (will be) a one humbucker (bridge) guitar, but what makes it a bit different is the amount of controls planned for it

• 3-way switch
• 1 Volume
• 1 Tone
• 1 "Spin-a-split" "Tone"

Using the 3-way switch (it is my preference, even if push/pull pots and other ways could be possible) I want to quickly choose between three "sounds". Here are the positions in the switch and the corresponding sounds and components used

1. "Rhythm/Clean": In this position I would be able to use a Volume knob, a Tone knob, and a "Spin-a-Split" knob
2. "Solo/Rhythm": In this position there would be only a fixed 500K resistance (or similar) to "tame the tone" a bit
3. "Solo/Blower Switch": In this position the pickup would not be altered in any way, producing the "full sound"

I´ll try to explain the idea of the wiring diagram below. The basic idea is that whenever the 3-way switch is in a specific positions, a bunch of components (or nothing) would be included, otherwise not.

• The bridge humbucker (on the left) is connected to the 3-switch to pole 3 (on the left)
• That pole 3 is jumpered to poles 2 and 1, which should make the bridge humbucker available in all 3 positions
• The commons in the switch are jumpered, and all output from the switch goes from the upper common (C) to the output jack (upper right)
• On the right hand side of the switch are the three different "sounds" (see description above), with all related components, except position 3 that has no components.
• Out of the components on the right hand side of the switch my assumption (is it wrong) is that they (Volume and Tone) don´t have to be connected to the bridge humbucker, except the "Spin-a-Split" (will that "Spin-a-Split" connection to the humbucker cause a problem?)

Any comments, ideas, suggestions etc greatly appreciated - thank you! And please be kind with your answers



And in case you wonder, yes, normally a one-humbucker "EVH-type" of guitar has only 1 volume, and potentially 1 tone control. But my guitar build will be abnornal

Updated #1: The order in the picture (and description) is wrong (reverse), it is supposed to be 1 being the bridge and 3 the neck pickup. The wiring diagram provided by stratamania later in this thread (posting #18) shows the correct version.
Updated #2: Pos1 and Pos2 configurations have been changed, which is described in the posting #32 in this thread.

 

[stratamania]

I can tell you that with a standard three-way switch, it definitely will not work for any position.

It could be probably made to work with a 4P 3 way switch such as this part below in terms of what you are looking to do.

3-Position Super Switch for Telecaster w/ Black Tip-16 Terminals

Huge selection of top brand guitar & bass electronics, pickups, parts & hardware. Plus hundreds of free guitar wiring diagrams.

guitarelectronics.com

Here is how to wire a spin, a split.

Guitar Wiring Explored: The Spin-a-Split Mod - Guitar Pickups, Bass Pickups, Pedals

In a previous article we looked at how to rig up a simple switch to split a humbucker to a single coil. This gives two very different sounds. But wouldn't it be nice if we could choose not just those two sounds, but anything in between as well? This is where the Spin-a-Split modification comes in.

www.seymourduncan.com

And here is how to do a blower switch, written by yours truly.

4PDT Blower Switch for Guitar

In this post are a series of diagrams to show how a blower switch could be wired up in a guitar. A Blower switch is one that sends the output of the pickup directly to the output jack bypassing the…

stratamania.wordpress.com

See if you can figure it out from the above information and update the thread. (I will try to help out further if you get stuck)

 

[VanHeGen]

Thank you so much @stratamania - again! Your first sentence answered my question most accurately - unfortunately Seriously, the information and the links you provided were most helpful!

I read your article about how to implement a blower switch, and it was so well written that even I thought that I understood what was said! And I had actually seen the excellent article on Seymourduncan about the Spin-a-Aplit mod, it was referenced when I first heard about this mod.

I did not cover this in my first post, but I actually presented the high level idea to a guy who has been helping me when I have been planning the build, and he had a high-level diagram showing how the pickup is connected to a push/pull Volume control, that either bypasses everything (”Blower switch”) or includes the Volume control and a Tone Control (the diagram included the S-a-S control, too).

The reason(s) I would like this to work with a blade switch (3-way/super) are

• I want three selectable tones
• I prefer a blade switch close to my picking hand for switching things (it is faster to me)
• I feel that a Gibson-style pickup selector is in my way when I am (for instance) tapping. Someone will now say that Eddie had no problem with that, well, I can guarantee you that I am no Eddie
• The Warmoth Soloist I am planning to order has the options I need/want (blade, Vol1, Tone1, Tone2)

The next step is that I will see what the guys at Guitarelectronics say about implementing this idea with a 4P 3-way switch. I already sent them a message. I will also try to educate myself on these switches.

 

[stratamania]

@VanHeGen by the way, when you mention the positions 1, 2 and 3 for your selections can you verify that 1 is when the blade switch is closer to the bridge or to the neck?

Standard Fender type numbering would be 1 being the bridge and 3 the neck pickup, for example on a Tele. But I have a feeling you may have numbered it the other way around. Just want to check in case I have some time to draw this out over the weekend.

 

[VanHeGen]

@VanHeGen by the way, when you mention the positions 1, 2 and 3 for your selections can you verify that 1 is when the blade switch is closer to the bridge or to the neck?

Standard Fender type numbering would be 1 being the bridge and 3 the neck pickup, for example on a Tele. But I have a feeling you may have numbered it the other way around. Just want to check in case I have some time to draw this out over the weekend.

@stratamania I definitely have them the other way around in the picture, which is an error! Your eyes are sharp! The correct order should of course be this:

3: ”Rhythm/Clean": In this position I would be able to use a Volume knob, a Tone knob, and a "Spin-a-Split" knob
2: "Solo/Rhythm": In this position there would be only a fixed 500K resistance (or similar) to "tame the tone" a bit
1: ”Solo/Blower Switch": In this position the pickup would not be altered in any way, producing the "full sound"

And it would be fantastic if could draw something for me - thank you!

 

[Street Avenger]

Why make everything so complicated? Just do a volume control, a tone control, and a series/parallel toggle switch.

 

[Rick]

Because he’s human. Humans always make things more complicated. I say go for it and learn.

 

[VanHeGen]

Because he’s human. Humans always make things more complicated. I say go for it and learn.

@Rick you nailed it! And especially because I want to learn. But also, because as I am having something built, why build something that everybody else has?

@Street Avenger I covered the reasons for why I want to go with this solution in my previous message, but mainly because I want 3 switchable sounds. And I don’t like how the series/paralell works - so I want to try the Spin-A-Split.

Thank you both for commenting!

 

[stratamania]

@stratamania I definitely have them the other way around in the picture, which is an error! Your eyes are sharp! The correct order should of course be this:

3: ”Rhythm/Clean": In this position I would be able to use a Volume knob, a Tone knob, and a "Spin-a-Split" knob
2: "Solo/Rhythm": In this position there would be only a fixed 500K resistance (or similar) to "tame the tone" a bit
1: ”Solo/Blower Switch": In this position the pickup would not be altered in any way, producing the "full sound"

And it would be fantastic if could draw something for me - thank you!

Thanks, also a point to note. Is if position 1 is for a standard set up of the bridge p/up, or in your case the solo/blower switch, you have also drawn the switch upside down. The terminals for position 1 (bridge) would be closer to the neck and vice versa. This is because a lever blade switch causes the active terminals to be at the opposite end to where the switch knob that the user looks at.

I don't think it is a particularly complicated set up - just different. As I mentioned, give me some time as I have some things I have to get done before Monday but I will see what I can do in terms of drawing it out.

 

[VanHeGen]

Thanks, also a point to note. Is if position 1 is for a standard set up of the bridge p/up, or in your case the solo/blower switch, you have also drawn the switch upside down. The terminals for position 1 (bridge) would be closer to the neck and vice versa. This is because a lever blade switch causes the active terminals to be at the opposite end to where the switch knob that the user looks at.

I don't think it is a particularly complicated set up - just different. As I mentioned, give me some time as I have some things I have to get done before Monday but I will see what I can do in terms of drawing it out.

Thank you for the information, I am learning something new all the time! Happy to hear that this should be doable, as it is one important part of my build project! It sounds like I could move forward with ordering the guitar from Warmoth, as it will take a loooong time until it is in my hands (production time).

 

[ragamuffin]

I think you'll find that your 1-2-3 positions aren't going to sound as different as you're expecting them to. It could be a fun project/exercise in learning about wiring though

 

[Street Avenger]

@Rick you nailed it! And especially because I want to learn. But also, because as I am having something built, why build something that everybody else has?

@Street Avenger I covered the reasons for why I want to go with this solution in my previous message, but mainly because I want 3 switchable sounds. And I don’t like how the series/paralell works - so I want to try the Spin-A-Split.

Thank you both for commenting!

The suggestion that I made is not what everyone else has. And it makes no sense to try to get 3 different switching configurations from one pickup, but like Rick said; go ahead and learn.

 

[VanHeGen]

Thanks @ragamuffin and @Street Avenger (sorry if I chose my words badly when replying to you!) for the comments! Yes, this is a learning exercise for me, and I want to hear what it sounds like, as I have never tried a blower switch or a spin-a-split. I have tried many variations of volume controls (treble bleeds, pots, etc), normal tone controls and bass contours, coil splits and taps,as well as a series/paralell toggle.
Oh, I will actually install a ”notone” Tone control (1-9 is normal control, 10 is full tone bypass), too…

 

[Rick]

I have to concur you'd be better off with installing a neck pickup and having: bridge, neck, neck + bridge, neck + bridge in series, neck + bridge in series out of phase, and a coil split. But for learning purposes, it's OK, and you never know, it may sound great.

 

[VanHeGen]

I have to concur you'd be better off with installing a neck pickup and having: bridge, neck, neck + bridge, neck + bridge in series, neck + bridge in series out of phase, and a coil split. But for learning purposes, it's OK, and you never know, it may sound great.

@Rick Another goal of this project was to minimize the tone chase, as I have other guitars with bridge+neck PU and various mods (as above), and it seems like I will never find two pickups that work together the way I’d want to, soundwise. With one pickup there are less variables

 

[Street Avenger]

Thanks @ragamuffin and @Street Avenger (sorry if I chose my words badly when replying to you!) for the comments! Yes, this is a learning exercise for me, and I want to hear what it sounds like, as I have never tried a blower switch or a spin-a-split. I have tried many variations of volume controls (treble bleeds, pots, etc), normal tone controls and bass contours, coil splits and taps,as well as a series/paralell toggle.
Oh, I will actually install a ”notone” Tone control (1-9 is normal control, 10 is full tone bypass), too…

You mean a "no-load" tone control, which is a good idea in my opinion.

 

[VanHeGen]

You mean a "no-load" tone control, which is a good idea in my opinion.

Yes, I had read about it and I tried it on a Charvel Pro-Mod DK24 that had a Duncan Full Shred in the bridge position. I was suprised how much it affected the tone. BTW, that Chatbel is a beautiful guitar based on Mahogany, in ”Dark Amber”.

 

[stratamania]

Here is the wiring. I really should start a Buy Me a Coffee or something





I have called the positions something different in the diagram but they will give you what was described earlier as:

1: ”Solo/Blower Switch": In this position the pickup would not be altered in any way, producing the "full sound"
2: "Solo/Rhythm": In this position there would be only a fixed 500K resistance (or similar) to "tame the tone" a bit
3: ”Rhythm/Clean": In this position I would be able to use a Volume knob, a Tone knob, and a "Spin-a-Split" knob

This is essentially a variation of my blower switch wiring that I linked to earlier, except using a 4P3T rather than a 4PDT giving the third position.

The drawing programme I had access to today does not have a 3 way switch of the type needed so I have used a 5 way super switch, just imagine the terminals marked with a red x are not there.

Other points to note, R1 connected to the switch at position 2 could also connect to the corresponding position 2 terminal at the other side of the black jumper wire. I have drawn it the way it is for diagrammatic clarity.

Position 2 is essentially the same as position 1 except with the addition of the R1 resistor will tame a little potential harshness *

Whether you notice much difference between pos 1 & 2 may depend on the pickup and value of resistor chosen.

The bridge ground wire could equally well be connected to another ground point - again shown this way for clarity

* position 2 is the same as my blower switch wiring, with a variation which is also used by Kevin Eknes in the below video.

 

[VanHeGen]

I don’t speak English well enough so that I could tell you how grateful I am for this @stratamania , but believe me when I say that I am!!! I only have a few things left to check before ordering my build, but this was the important one.
If you ever setup anything like Buy Me A Coffee I will definitely buy - an entire pot!


BTW, my guitar will be called Coffee!

 

[Logrinn]

In light of everything you contribute to these pages you should definitely set up a PayPal /Buy-me-a-coffee page link @stratamania, so that everyone that wishes could show their gratitude to you.