Help! Input jack issues

[rduke]

I ordered my rear routed Strat with the 1/2" hole for the input jack I'm holding here.]

But it does not protrude far enough through the hole here
]
to get the securing nut on it.

I need to take down about 1/4" of wood so that I can get the nut on.  I'm not very excited about that option.  Our I could ream the hole to a 3/4" and finish it with the "football" input jack plate but I'm not crazy about doing any drilling either.
Any suggestions?

 

[line6man]

OUTPUT jack! The signal flows out of the jack!

Is the body finished? If it isn't, I would try recessing the jack hole. Otherwise, there are a number of ways to go about. You could use a router with a template bit to remove some wood on the inside of the cavity, or you could put a cove bit in a hand drill and start hogging out some wood inside the cavity. The best thing to do, however, is to buy a deeper jack.

 

[Cagey]

OMFG! Yer scrood! Yer Fukt! Ya made a HUGE irreversible mistake!

Hehe! Just kidding.

There's no easy way to relieve that hole from the inside without hiring some well-equipped leprechauns or fairies... maybe the Keebler elves. What with the unions and all, I hope you've been saving your pennies. Those little buggers don't come cheap.

I don't think they make that jack any longer than the one you have, either.

But, all is not lost. Just buy an OUTPUT jack plate (football or square, it matters not) and relieve the hole in the plate to fit that jack, then mount it as if that's what you'd planned on doing all along (I won't tell anybody). No need to torture your guitar's body. It's newborn. What did it ever do to you?

Although, you will have to relieve the body a little bit to clear the nut behind the jack on the plate, but that's minor. You could almost do it with an exacto knife.

 

[rduke]

Output.  Got it.

Yep, I believe relieving the hole enough to get the regular Switchcraft (Output) jack in and finish with a football jack is what I'll do. 
Thanks.

 

[line6man]

Output.  Got it.

Yep, I believe relieving the hole enough to get the regular Switchcraft (Output) jack in and finish with a football jack is what I'll do. 
Thanks.

You probably already know this, but the best way to do that is to glue a 1/2" dowel in the hole, and then redrill the hole with a forstner bit. Should give you a nice clean hole.

 

[DangerousR6]

OUTPUT jack! The signal flows out of the jack!

Is the body finished? If it isn't, I would try recessing the jack hole. Otherwise, there are a number of ways to go about. You could use a router with a template bit to remove some wood on the inside of the cavity, or you could put a cove bit in a hand drill and start hogging out some wood inside the cavity. The best thing to do, however, is to buy a deeper jack.

Blah, blah, blah...you have no "output" before you "input"... So's the way i seesit, it's both.. But I digress, unless you have a back bore or you feel like routing that chunk o wood away. Sounds like you're looking at line6man or Cagey's plan.. :dontknow:

 

[Cagey]

Output.  Got it.

Yep, I believe relieving the hole enough to get the regular Switchcraft (Output) jack in and finish with a football jack is what I'll do. 
Thanks.

You don't have to relieve the hole that much. That deep panel jack you've got there fits the hole, so you don't need to change that. All you'll need is just enough space to clear the jam nut that'll hold that jack to the plate. A small amount of carving will do it. No need to drill or anything.

 

[Updown]

Can you measure the length of that output jack ?
Is it this one ? .... http://www.warmoth.com/Deep-Panel-Stereo-Jack-Gold-P726C68.aspx

I posted some pic's using this one .... http://www.warmoth.com/Deep-Panel-Stereo-Jack-By-Switchcraft-P725C68.aspx
This is 1 & 1/2'' to the end of the shaft. Plus it is Stereo.

I have a slight feeling that the output you have isn't as long as the one I showed in my pic's.
(I don't have one to compare)  :dontknow:

You can get a dremel in there on the inside (I have done many times)
Only need to take a small piece away from the inside.
Just use the grinding stone of about 15mm

NO need to bore out the whole hole to fit something even bigger.  :tard:

I'm sure it's that jack you have.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

There are some vendors out there such as WD and Alllparts that have the jack itself in longer lengths.

I personally would research just replacing the jack for less than $15 than to go hogging out material on the body itself.

I just think removing wood should be the last resort, that's all.

 

[rduke]

Done.  Thanks Cagey, I went with the Exacto knife method.  Now I know what a first year brain surgeon feels like on the first one!  :laughing7:

]

Incidentally, I just wanted to let you guys know that it's the ability to get advice on stuff like this that makes it possible for a lot of us noob's to take the plunge into "W" land!  ccasion14:

 

[Cagey]

Well... that's not what I was suggesting at all, but you can't argue with success <grin>

 

[Rickgrxbass]

I just ran into this problem with my Jazz bass, which is weird because it was in fact wired up previously. I decided to countersink the control cavity side, but I didn't have a Forstner bit so I had to use a spade bit, which went exactly as smoothly as you would imagine. Somehow, though, I was able to not bung up the finish or the existing hole, so I guess no harm no foul? (If it'd have went south, I'd just have routed a channel and used a control plate and said I meant to do it  :doh

 

[Cagey]

A spade bit? Ok, tell the truth now... how many beers did you have in you?

 

[mayfly]

Well... that's not what I was suggesting at all, but you can't argue with success <grin>

I actually thought you were suggesting just that!

I think you fixed it the right way.  Looks great - probably looks great from the outside too  :icon_thumright:

 

[ocguy106]

Well... that's not what I was suggesting at all, but you can't argue with success <grin>

I actually thought you were suggesting just that!

I think you fixed it the right way.  Looks great - probably looks great from the outside too  :icon_thumright:

Looks good...
I think Cagey was suggesting to put a little relief on the outside hole so that the nut that would hold the jack to the square or football plate could then sit flush on the guitar. I would have gone the route the OP did as I think this is more what he wanted since he didn't really want a football plate

 

[Cagey]

That's right, and I'm sure you're right about the OP's desires as well. I just didn't see a good way to do it from the inside.

 

[Rickgrxbass]

A spade bit? Ok, tell the truth now... how many beers did you have in you?

All I remember, I woke up in a daze, the cordless drill still humming softly on the coffee table, with a 7/8" spade bit still in the chuck. Oh God, I thought, not again; what have I done now? As I regained acumen, I discovered the guitar in prone position bound to the workbench, a sorry disposition for sure. I cautiously approached the control cavity, wherein a slightly oblong hole was recklessly gouged around the most distal opening. It was crude, but somehow the face of the guitar was unharmed. I located the Switchcraft jack nearby, and, against most logic, the threaded barrel protruded just far enough to secure the fastener. This time was lucky, I may have even said aloud, but I really need to stop putting lacquer thinner in my ginger ale.

But yeah, I finally got some forstners from the hardware store, so I may just throw those hateful wood chippers away...

 

[AutoBat]

^^Still a better story than Twilight.

 

[bagman67]

"I slammed my own Johnson in a car door" is still a better story than "Twilight."  Not a very high bar, is all I'm sayin'.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

A Twilight Valentine's, Christmas, or birthday gift has gotten me out of many a jam at my house.  The sad thing, I have no kids.