Help Identify TOM bridge type to order a Callaham?

[Steve_Karl]

To order a Callaham ... to replace the one in the pic. ... would I want "Nashville Conversion Studs" ?
I just want to be sure. Thank you!

Also, one of the tail piece studs was kinda cross threaded and I had to cut ( dremmel ) 1/2 of the screw off to get it all the way into it's socket.
Can I get that socket re threaded and put a new full length screw in or should I get both parts and have the old one pulled out and the new one put in?
Thanks!

 

[blue313]

Based on your pic, I'd say the Nashville.


The ABR-1 has threaded posts that screw directly into the wood.  The thumb wheel is a separate piece.

The Nashville has bushings that are pressed into the wood.  The posts are machine threaded and screw into those bushings.  The thumb wheel is also permanently attached.

 

[Steve_Karl]

Thanks for the details.

I'll be restringing it soon and will pull it off and look.

Steve

 

[blue313]

The thumbwheel is holding the bridge up, so that's definitely some kind of bushing down against the body.  The ABR-1 has nothing like that.

 

[mayfly]

when you turn the thumbwheel, does the entire screw turn?  When you take the bridge off, is the part above the thumbwheel free of threads?

If so, it's a Nashville.

 

[Steve_Karl]

Thanks Blue313 noted!
Thanks MayFly ... that's very well explained.

 

[TBurst Std]

That is a Nashville. If I was you, order the tp anchors, and have them replaced.
Also as you are taking the tp to the deck, take a look at your string break angle over the bridge. Hard to tell from the pics, but it appears your strings are hitting the back of the bridge.
Even if they are not, with that much angle you will collapse bridges (lose the radius) over time. If you want the tp on the deck, top wrap it.

Here is a pic of a top wrapped TOM.

 

[Steve_Karl]

Yea. I noticed the that after cranking the TP down and remembered how I used to get that all the time with my older LPS, and having to pull the bridge back up in a straight position.
I never tried the top wrap trick but will do next restring.
Thanks for the info.

 

[TBurst Std]

Yea. I noticed the that after cranking the TP down and remembered how I used to get that all the time with my older LPS, and having to pull the bridge back up in a straight position.
I never tried the top wrap trick but will do next restring.
Thanks for the info.

Try it next time you re-string. When you do, try going up 1 guage in strings as well as the overall effective length of the string is longer.

 

[Steve_Karl]

Cool! I've got a heavier gauge set sittin' here ready to go.
Gotta find the time but will try them for sure.

 

[Steve_Karl]

The thumbwheel is holding the bridge up, so that's definitely some kind of bushing down against the body.  The ABR-1 has nothing like that.

Nice looking LP!

 

[Mor Paul]

Yea. I noticed the that after cranking the TP down and remembered how I used to get that all the time with my older LPS, and having to pull the bridge back up in a straight position.
I never tried the top wrap trick but will do next restring.
Thanks for the info.

Try it next time you re-string. When you do, try going up 1 guage in strings as well as the overall effective length of the string is longer.

Um... the effective length is from the saddle to the nut. It's staying the same  :tard:

 

[Steve_Karl]

What happens if I bolt my guitar to a table in the middle of a warehouse and use a trapeze tail piece 15 feet away attached to a work bench, and have special strings made of the same gage that are 17.8 inches long?
No change in string tension there either?

It's easier to see it when it's wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy biggggggggggggg!

 

[line6man]

What happens if I bolt my guitar to a table in the middle of a warehouse and use a trapeze tail piece 15 feet away attached to a work bench, and have special strings made of the same gage that are 17.8 inches long?
No change in string tension there either?

It's easier to see it when it's wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy biggggggggggggg!

The string can be as long as you want it to be behind the bridge.
Tension happens only between the nut and saddle, what happens past the nut or saddle has no affect.

 

[Mor Paul]

The string can be as long as you want it to be behind the bridge.
Tension happens only between the nut and saddle, what happens past the nut or saddle has no affect.

Because you can be anal... I'm going to say that the correct word is "Effect."

 

[Steve_Karl]

I keep forgetting that the term is stiffness ... not tension. 

 

[TBurst Std]

Yea. I noticed the that after cranking the TP down and remembered how I used to get that all the time with my older LPS, and having to pull the bridge back up in a straight position.
I never tried the top wrap trick but will do next restring.
Thanks for the info.

Try it next time you re-string. When you do, try going up 1 guage in strings as well as the overall effective length of the string is longer.

Um... the effective length is from the saddle to the nut. It's staying the same  :tard:

LOL, that is usable length. Effective length is measured from the end of the string. Trust me, the length of the string after it passes over the bridge does have an effect. The Bridge just mainly acts a primary frequency termination spot. By chance do you have a TOM based guitar? If so I have an experiment for you.

 

[Steve_Karl]

I'm ready for an experiment.
Please post it!

 

[TBurst Std]

I'm ready for an experiment.
Please post it!

Here is a simple way to see that the bridge largely only impacts the primary freq length (intonatable length).
Plug in, turn it up loud, now pluck the string between the bridge and tail piece. Yeppers there is sound there. Obviously the string behind the bridge (actually the fulcrum point) does have influence.
You could do this between the nut and tuners as well (as it is the same scenario).

The effective length of the string is end to end. The primary frequency (view this as intonatable) length is determined by your 2 fulcrum points, the nut and bridge.
To reach a certain intonation between your fulcrum points, a given tension is needed over the effective length. As that effective length is changed, tension needs to change to maintain the same intonation.

The impact with top wrapping is to achieve the same intonation, the tension needed over the now longer effective length is less: to use a guitarist's term, it is slinkier.
Thus why I suggested to go up a guage.

If anyone here as ever dome frequency analysis on golf shafts, I can offer another analogy.

 

[Steve_Karl]

Excellent explanation!