Heel Truss Rod Adjustment

[Perry Combover]

I've done the work on my last two Warmoths myself and have been quite pleased.  However, this new baritone neck that I have makes me a little nervous.  Since the truss rod adjustment is in the heel, How can I know how much to adjust before attaching it to the body?  I suppose I can just slap it on as is and hope for the best, but when I get it wrong three or for times in a row, how many times can I take it off before the predrilled holes lose their grip?  :icon_scratch: Surely I'm not the first to have this issue.

 

[Verne Bunsen]

I'm not sure what the rest if your configuration is, but often, heel-adjust truss rods can be accessed just by removing the pickguard. If it's tight and if the fretboard doesn't hang over, a fancy schmancy tool like a paint can opener can do a bang up job of getting in there.

If you must remove the neck to adjust, just use care when reassembling and you should have decades of on-and-off without issue. Keep track of which screw went in which hole, use soap or wax or other thread lube, and rotate the screw backwards till you feel it "drop" into the existing threads before re-tightening.

 

[Cagey]

Since the truss rod adjustment is in the heel, How can I know how much to adjust before attaching it to the body?  I suppose I can just slap it on as is and hope for the best, but when I get it wrong three or for times in a row, how many times can I take it off before the predrilled holes lose their grip?

It's a good argument for threaded inserts in the heel. Lets you use machine screws to attach the neck, which allows you to pull it as often as you want without issue, and also makes for a tighter joint. But, without that you can always just measure your relief while the neck is off and set it to something that should be very close if not spot on.

You need a reliable straightedge that's accurate to within .001' over its length, like one of these. Lay that against the frets and use a feeler gauge to see how much gap you have at about the 7th-8th fret. On a guitar with a scale length in the 25" range that has had its frets leveled, I've found that between .008" and .012 works best. On a baritone, you may want a little more, say .012" to .015".

Be aware that once you install the neck and string it up, the relief is going to increase by some small amount, so you might want to set it a bit lower than you want to end up at.

 

[Perry Combover]

Good info Cagey, thank you. 

I think I might go ahead and put the threaded inserts on this one.  I have avoided it in the past because I have heard that the insertion has to be precise.  Might be worth it though.

 

[Cagey]

Well, the threads on the inserts are cut for machine screws, so there's little or no room for error if you want to avoid cross-threading the screws. If that happens, cleaning up the mistake is no fun at all. But, if you have a drill press and a cross-vise or a jig, then getting the inserts in square is not much of a problem. I've heard of guys successfully doing it with portable drill motors, but that's just asking for trouble.

 

[Perry Combover]

I have a buddy who is a cabinet maker. I might have to invite myself to his shop and give it a go.

 

[fdesalvo]

I have a buddy who is a cabinet maker. I might have to invite myself to his shop and give it a go.

"Where's your hand?!"
"Between two pillows."

:toothy12:

 

[pabloman]

Hahaha!! :icon_biggrin:

Those aren't pillows!

 

[fdesalvo]

Haha!!! So damn good!  I just noticed that brilliant avatar. Ol' Candy!

 

[Perry Combover]

I still miss him. Gone way too early.