Guitar Schematics Question

[stubhead]

But still...

You couldn't do neck single and bridge hum, neck hum and bridge single, neck and bridge single, or neck and bridge hum.  For this reason, I'd do 2 SPST or push/pull pots.  The split coil sound, although a single coil, lacks the sound of a true single coil and is best used in conjunction with another pickup.

 

You sure we can't change your mind? I have that exact one (the right one :icon_biggrin on my seven-string, albeit with series/cut/parallel switches. I'd say 50% or more of the time I've got both pickups on and one switched. I'll give you another on/on switch if you want, I bought a whole boxcar of 'em some time for some damn reason or another, ah the mists of time. :dontknow:

 

[itsall4you]

Here you go.  I apologize for the quality.  Graphics ain't my strong suit.

Hi Thank you SO much!

Just another question.. that wiring diagram is assuming that it is a seymour duncan pickup right?

Therefore, I'll have to work out the colours myself.

So would it be correct to say that

1. Green in Duncan = South Start therefore on a Benedetto pickup it would still be green
2. Red in Duncan = South Finish therefore on a Benedetto pickup it is white.

3. What is the random black line on the tone pot?
4. Is the cap supposed to ground on to the volume pot? or the tone pot itself

Thanks in advance

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

Those are for Seymour Duncans, you'll have to figure out the color equivalent for the others.

On the tone pot, there are three lugs.  As it shows from left to right, the 1st has nothing terminated on it.  The 2nd, or middle, has a capacitor between it and ground.  The 3rd is a parallel feed with it and the threeway toggle coming from the input jack.  If the wire looks "random," it because in a schematic there is supposed to be differientation when wires cross that aren't connected, coupled with the fact that like I said, graphics are not my strong suit.

As far as grounding, that is up to you how to do it best.  Avoid ground loops when possible, and ground the chasis of all the pots (theoretically not necessary though).  So depending on how you choose to ground it, you could just solder the other end of the capacitor to the pot since the pot will be grounded.

 

[stubhead]

http://www.guitarelectronics.com/category/wiringresources.wiring_faqs.pickup_color_codes/

http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Electronics/Color_codes.html

http://www.guitar-repairs.co.uk/guitar_pickup_colour_codes.htm

I use the first one myself, but they all agree. It'll almost certainly go better for you if you WRITE DOWN the specific conversion code, not try to do it off the top of your head. Also, I find it invaluable for some reason to redraw each schematic for my own use - I think of the electricity as water flowing through pipes, with it being affected in certain ways at each stage of the switching or something. I don't even truly understand this stuff in terms of deep theory, but I've wired up some pretty complicated stuff just by being patient & careful.

 

[itsall4you]

Those are for Seymour Duncans, you'll have to figure out the color equivalent for the others.

On the tone pot, there are three lugs.  As it shows from left to right, the 1st has nothing terminated on it.  The 2nd, or middle, has a capacitor between it and ground.  The 3rd is a parallel feed with it and the threeway toggle coming from the input jack.  If the wire looks "random," it because in a schematic there is supposed to be differientation when wires cross that aren't connected, coupled with the fact that like I said, graphics are not my strong suit.

As far as grounding, that is up to you how to do it best.  Avoid ground loops when possible, and ground the chasis of all the pots (theoretically not necessary though).  So depending on how you choose to ground it, you could just solder the other end of the capacitor to the pot since the pot will be grounded.

Thank you very much!

I finished wiring the guitar and it sounds perfect.

The only thing is that the minitoggle switch is not working.

Nothing happens when I flip the miniswitch.

It sounds like it's on the humbucker mode at the moment and is not splitting (or it could be the other way around but i think it's humbucker)

Do you have any idea what might cause this?

Otherwise everything is working thanks to Super Turbo Deluxe Custom :hello2:

The wires are all connected.. The only thing I did that wasn't on the schematics was

I joint the bare and the green wire from both pickups and linked them to the grounded 2 poles (the top two) which was also joint by one grounding wire going through them both.

Is this where the problem might be? I thought it would be fine to do that because they're both ground anyway..

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

The jumper on the SPDT switch with the bare, all grounds are connected so it shouldn't matter.  When testing a newly wired guitar, even though you can tell the difference in tones, I'll get a cell phone or an electric razor, and with the amp turned down, hold it over each coil and flip switches and turn knobs to see if they're doing what they're supposed to do.  The pickup will pick up the electromagnetic "noise" from a cell phone or electric razor.  You can move it slowly over a humbucker and here it distinctly as it passes over the coils.  I do that before it ever get a string put on.

 

[itsall4you]

Here you go.  I apologize for the quality.  Graphics ain't my strong suit.

Hi again..

um Just another question.

I just compared your schematic to the one at guitarelectronics.com (which I probably should have done earlier.)

And isn't one of the two top ones (which in your diagram are both grounded)

Suppose to touch an hot wire depending on which one you want to cut?

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

Not sure what the question is.  Post the particular link to the schematic you're refering to.  Yes, you can move the wires around on the switch, it will change what it does in that position.

 

[itsall4you]

Of the two top terminals on the minitoggle switch, (on your diagram) this schematic at guitarelectronics.com says one of them should actually join the hot output.

Is that a mistake on your schematic? I don't think there is loose wires or cold solderjoints in my electronics.. So I am guessing the schematic is wrong...(I'm not sure at all actually)

Hope this will fix the problem

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

That's puzzleing.  De-solder and try it their way.  The DPDT is two switches in the same housing that has two sides that are isolated from each other.  If one side of the switch splits the coils of the humbucker one way, it would make sense that the other side, wired the same way, would do the same thing.  It's also possible that the sloder job was too hot and melted some of the plastic guts of the mini-switch.