Grain Fill with CA

ognolman

Senior member
Messages
351
First off, I've never done Tung Oil.  I've done Tru-Oil on some furniture before with decent results.

I've read the posts about grain filling with CA.  I'm seriously considering it on my Swap Ash bass body, but I want it to be a slightly tinted natural pure Tung Oil finish.  I've got a batch of Belhen's (sp?) pure Tung on the way.  In the closet I have a can of Bartley paste wood filler.  Downstairs I've got a fairly big container of Zap thin CA, but it doesn't have a brush-- it's the model airplane variety with the little wick for dropping out beads of the stuff.  I also have one pint of ColorTone Waterbase Grain Filler and a 16oz container of Milk Paint's Citrus Natural Solvent.  I've gotten most of this stuff from posts here.  So am I about to make a huge mess here or what??

The body is sanded to 150 grit and I'm pretty happy with the shaping and all.  I've been careful to get the scratches out.  The Bartley filler is looking about the color of the Ash, but it has a fairly dark, oily substance on top of it, so I can't see the filler very well.  I suppose that would probably be oil. :laughing7: I don't recall where I got it, but I've never used it.  I've never used the ColorTone filler, either.

As for the Zap CA, I'm not sure how I would apply it.  Old credit card?  Sponge brush?

Anyway, I guess I'm looking for someone to help get me moving in a direction that is going to keep me from ruining this thing 'cause I've put a lot into it.  I figure the most idiot-proof thing to do would be to start off with the ColorTone and then add the Minwax and finally the Tung Oil.  Seems like no matter what I can always fix problems with a water-based filler.  Even if it takes forever, I think "forgiving" is a good word for what I need.

As far as the CA goes, it seems like I could accidentally re-shape some areas on the body with all the sanding it will require.  And I'm worried about how it will look under the Minwax and Tung Oil.  I don't know that it was ever decided on whether it looks OK under Tung Oil.  I'm sure it is very durable, though.  I do have a finish sander I can use.

So I guess if I can get some opinions on how I should proceed it would be most helpful.  CB?  Jack?  I know you guys have talked this stuff to death, so I'll understand if you don't wanna.

Thanks!
JBD
 

-CB-

Senior member
Messages
5,427
When you put on the CA, expect it to be totally uneven on the body - just like grain filler would be uneven too, and you'll have to sand it down.  You'll need to use a sanding block - I've been using the 3m one at Home Depot, and it works ok.  Think in terms of 220 paper to level the CA, then 320 or 400 to really smooth it out.      CA dries clear.  If you want enhanced grain, do a fill first with whatever filler you like, in some contrasting color, but since its ash... you'll need to refill it.  On the 2nd fill, use the CA and it will go clear over the first stuff. 

If you use the filler first, you needn't CA the entire guitar, just those deep deep canyons of grain that ash is noted for.  That will save the CA, and the sanding.  You're using it as a filler, so just fill what needs to be filled.  After you get it filled, 400 grit... and oil of your choice.
 

ognolman

Senior member
Messages
351
I've coated it up with the Bartley filler and will sand it off tonight and do another coat.  That stuff dries slowly-- 24 hours between application and sanding.  Fortunately, I don't think there is a lot of super-deep grain to take out of this piece of wood.

Thanks for the tips, CB!

JBD
 

SkuttleFunk

Senior member
Messages
1,156
instead of using CA for grain filling, I'd consider this combination instead

web4669.jpg


http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4669

- plus -

FSTIQSilicaThickener1648.jpg


http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=338 - Item #124527


a significantly better solution and 'safer' to use product

all the best,

R

 

-CB-

Senior member
Messages
5,427
Actually, CA is safer.  Don't let the "cyano" fool you into thinking "cyanide".  CA is safe stuff, even heated.  Its worst problem, other than sticking fingers together.... is the fumes can be, to some people, an irritant.  I might be immune, but a body whose top was covered in CA didn't stink the place up there, as it laid in my office drying.
 

SkuttleFunk

Senior member
Messages
1,156
for me just filling a couple cavities in a burl top put me beyond uncomfortable even with a MSA respirator properly fitted and loaded with proper cartridges. I guess I'm just highly sensitive to the CA vapors, whereas the epoxy goo deosn't bother me much

too much time in a composite clean room, maybe?

all the best,

R
 

ognolman

Senior member
Messages
351
Both adhesives seem to have some safety issues:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate#Toxicity

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Epoxy#Health_risks

The main concern I have with CA is that getting that stuff in your eyes would be bad news, indeed.  But I've been working with CAs for a long time now and have never gotten it in my eyes, although I have ruined a few pairs of glasses with plastic lenses.

I appreciate the epoxy suggestion, though.  The problem I've had with epoxy is that it is very difficult to sand off once applied, but now that I have a variety of nice sanding machines I probably wouldn't have as much of a problem.  I had tried it with a spalted maple body once a while back and it was a lot of work.  But, again, I didn't have the sanding equipment I have now.

Thx,

JBD
 
Top