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Gotoh 3 saddle bridge from Warmoth Issues

Ozopart

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I am having a lot of difficulty getting this bridge intonnated properly. Between the saddle set screws and the intonation screws at the back, I am going back and forth but can't get things working smoothly. Chords are OK now, single notes not so much. I have setup this same bridge on other Warmoth Tele's with no issue. Not sure what is the problem here. The body is a Vintage Tele Warmoth body, and the Neck is a 21 fret roasted maple Warmoth neck.

I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions for troubleshooting, or alternatively, suggestions for a more stable/easy to setup bridge. I don't mind spending more if the bridge is better..
 
Chords are OK now, single notes not so much.
This is an honest question, as I don't understand this, but: How can chords be ok, when single notes are not?

And btw.: The set screws have nothing to do with the intonation, they are for individual string height.
 
This is an honest question, as I don't understand this, but: How can chords be ok, when single notes are not?

And btw.: The set screws have nothing to do with the intonation, they are for individual string height.
Your question makes perfect sense, and sorry for being a bit dumb on all of this. I have built several Warmoth guitars in the past, but had the wiring done by Fralin. Meaning loaded pickguards or control plates. But for the Telecasters I built I used the Gotoh 3 Saddle bridges Warmoth sells and had no issues "out of the box". For this build after I got everything together the strings were "dead" or flubby. I adjusted the string height (as you say, sorry to be dumb there, they don't cfhange intonation, but they do (I think, or it seems) impact whether the string resonates or sounds dead. That helped a bit, but I still am having issues with the strings just not resonating clean (not sure what the correct words are here).
What I meant by chords being OK, lead notes not so much, is when I fret higher on some strings it sounds different. I am not great at words to describe this but they are sort of jangly, erratic, trebly, ?
The main thing is it had lots of dead strings when I first completed the build. I might be making things worse adjusting, but I don't think so. I think I am trending in the right direction. Now I think I need to replace the .001uF cap I used with either a .022uF, or maybe even go to the standard .047uF cap. Not sure yet, I might try the .022uF first. The tone is just a bit too bright for me with the .001uF. I chose that based on a Fralin video on the impact of different caps, but I think it isn't a good match for my Blues Special pickups.
Anyway, I appreciate your help.
 
For at least a third of my guitar playing life I didn't know how intonation worked, so I would be the last one to call you dumb. 😅

Also string height can sometimes feel like a compromise.

Did you check the neck relief?
 
For at least a third of my guitar playing life I didn't know how intonation worked, so I would be the last one to call you dumb. 😅

Also string height can sometimes feel like a compromise.

Did you check the neck relief?
I didn't do that, I have considered myself, being not particularly handy, lucky not to have ever had to adjust any of my Warmoth necks. Perhaps this is the first time? I will do a bit of research to see how to check the neck relief.
It is probably obvious, but this particular build was intended to be to create a guitar that I cduld do lots of different things like testing different pickups, bridges, ... So, I am not at all unhappy with having to tweak things. I just need to learn a lot do know what to do. Again, I appreciate the help.
 
Try a different set. Strings can (I’d say 2-3%of the time) be dead out of the package.

First check the nut. Then set neck relief. Now set intonation while the guitar is in a playing position.

Now report back how things are. Also if you are using single coils, lower them. You may be suffering from stratitis. Single coils have a heavy magnet pull, and can pull things out of tune it set to close.
 
Try a different set. Strings can (I’d say 2-3%of the time) be dead out of the package.

First check the nut. Then set neck relief. Now set intonation while the guitar is in a playing position.

Now report back how things are. Also if you are using single coils, lower them. You may be suffering from stratitis. Single coils have a heavy magnet pull, and can pull things out of tune it set to close.
Wish I was skilled/knowledgeable in any of those 3 areas. Sadly I am just learning. As I said above, I never had any issues with playability of any of the Warmoth necks I used in the past. I think I messed up buying this one as all of my previous ones were Modern construction, 22 frets. This one is Modern/Vintage construction with 21 frets. I don't think the number of frets matters, but they construction type might. Either way, I need to learn to adjust the neck for playability.
 
Stop where you are at. Do you have 2 capos (1 can work but 2 is better), a true straight edge (if not get one), and an either a micrometer or feeler gauges (you can get a feeler gauge from an auto parts store).

You can do this, these basic tools are needed though.

All this will cost less than a neck. And you can use them all the time.

But even before then, if using single coils, drop them. Re intonate and see if your situation persists. I bet 65% it won’t.

Now remember a 3 saddle Tele bridge will never be perfect (that’s part of the magic). Intonate each saddle as a compromise between the shared strings: then adjust as needed for open chords. At that point you are good to go. Intonate using the open and fretted seventh rather than a harmonic 12th or fretted 12th.
 
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Stop where you are at. Do you have 2 capos (1 can work but 2 is better), a true straight edge (if not get one), and an either a micrometer or feeler gauges (you can get a feeler gauge from an auto parts store).

You can do this, these basic tools are needed though.

All this will cost less than a neck. And you can use them all the time.

But even before then, if using single coils, drop them. Re intonate and see if your situation persists. I bet 65% it won’t.

Now remember a 3 saddle Tele bridge will never be perfect (that’s part of the magic). Intonate each saddle as a compromise between the shared strings: then adjust as needed for open chords. At that point you are good to go. Intonate using the open and fretted seventh rather than a harmonic 12th or fretted 12th.
A couple of questions;

(1) By micrometer do you mean digital calipers, or something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-Professional-Micrometer-102/100659779
(2) By straight edge do you mean a ruler, or ...
(3) For intonation adjustment, I think I need a different screwdriver, mine doesn't seem to make a tight fit. I think for the bridge I have it wants a #2 philips head. I am thinking an 8" long one might be better also.
(4) I have several capos, not sure how you are suggesting to use them though. Do you mean put one at the first fret and one at the seventh? Or ...
(5) Dumb question here but when you say "drop them" for the single coils (I have Fralin Blues Special Tele pickups) do you mean lower them further from the strings?

I definitely don't intend to replace the neck as the purpose of this build was to create a learning tool. Of course I wanted it to be playable right away and more focused on experimenting with pickups, but ... Anyway, I won't be replacing the neck. I intend to put those funds towards either a keyboard, drums, a better speaker output solution, an amp and passive cabinet maybe, and a Gibson LP Special P90.

Thanks as always for the help.
 
Yes. And they also seem to not vibrate "cleanly". Not sure the right words.
Ok loosen the strings a few turns THEN use Allen wrench to raise the saddles upward until the strings vibrate cleanly. The bridge should have come supplied with appropriate tool.
 
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