Gecko5 VS. G5

[TonyT]

I couldn't find an existing thread, please direct me if I have missed it.

Excited for my 1st Warmoth build and hung up on which to go for, the gecko 5 or the G5. Of course I notice the neck pocket difference (does this play a major role?)  what other differences between the two? Anyone on here have or tried both? Your opinions, thoughts, suggestions are much appreciated! Thx

 

[swarfrat]

Geckos are 35" scale,  laminated necks with a unique pocket. I believe G4/5 are traditional bass neck pockets and 34" scale

 

[TonyT]

Geckos are 35" scale,  laminated necks with a unique pocket. I believe G4/5 are traditional bass neck pockets and 34" scale

Yep 34" vs 35" I hadn't noticed that, thanks for pointing it out. So no 35" G5's? I've read a ton about how sweet the low B is on the 35"

 

[JimBeed]

I can't say I've tried a 35" 5 string, but my Z 5 Bass with 34" scale (I'm assuming it is if the g5 is also) the b string certainly doesn't feel sloppy or anything personally

 

[TonyT]

I can't say I've tried a 35" 5 string, but my Z 5 Bass with 34" scale (I'm assuming it is if the g5 is also) the b string certainly doesn't feel sloppy or anything personally

Thanks. This will be my 1st 5 string, played many (not sure if they were 34" or 35" but never owned one... yet. I'm just caught up on this gecko and g5 thing, not sure why, they both look like nice basses.

 

[line6man]

Tension does not have as much to do with scale length as people think it does. What matters is having a nice stiff construction that does not flex. If you have this, then you can have a good B string without there being a need to go beyond 34".

 

[TonyT]

Tension does not have as much to do with scale length as people think it does. What matters is having a nice stiff construction that does not flex. If you have this, then you can have a good B string without there being a need to go beyond 34".

So how to guarantee this stiff construction that does not flex. Just properly putting it together?

 

[swarfrat]

Stiffeners, laminates, etc.. but i think string enharmonicity IS a major part. The longer the scale, the fatter string you can have before it quits acting like a string and starts action like a rod. but you can also tune up to c or C# and get a lot crisper better behaved string without givig uo too much range

 

[line6man]

Tension does not have as much to do with scale length as people think it does. What matters is having a nice stiff construction that does not flex. If you have this, then you can have a good B string without there being a need to go beyond 34".

So how to guarantee this stiff construction that does not flex. Just properly putting it together?

Assembly has nothing to do with it. The stiffness of a neck comes down to construction. The biggest factors will be the wood and the design of the neck. You need to choose a species of wood that is typically stiff, and have a cut of it that is properly dried, and suitable for a neck. It should not be "Springy." Reinforcements in the neck are also important, depending on the wood. Some necks have steel or carbon fibre rods, and others don't. Having a nice tight neck joint probably factors in, as well.

 

[line6man]

Stiffeners, laminates, etc.. but i think string enharmonicity IS a major part. The longer the scale, the fatter string you can have before it quits acting like a string and starts action like a rod. but you can also tune up to c or C# and get a lot crisper better behaved string without givig uo too much range

Right, but it is not necessary to have longer scale lengths to get a good B string. With proper construction, a 34" bass can rival a 35" or 36" bass.

 

[swarfrat]

I'll go with "string thinner with respect to length" and "higher tension" for a two fold advantage over "artfiully arranged laminations to move any questionable resonances out of the strings region of activity"  if stiffness were the primary driver her, you'd expect your wonly flabby B to wake up and get with the program above the fifth fret. I play 34" B's. They're OK. But intonation is always a compromise.

 

[TonyT]

I think I have moved from gecko5 vs. G5 right into 34" vs. 35"

 

[ihavenothingprofoundtosay]

As mentioned, string tension makes a huge difference, IMO - more of a difference than scale length. If you've got low tension strings (like lighter gauge roundwounds) on a 35" scale bass with a P-style headstock, your B may be floppier than a flatwound B on a 34" scale bass with a tiltback headstock.

I'd personally recommend going with either a string through body bridge and/or tiltback headstock. Or a reverse inline headstock, with the B being furthest from the nut. But that's just me. The scale length is more a matter of preference than a guaranteed result of better tone/better feeling.

One thing worth mentioning is the size of the necks on the Geckos: three options for width vs. 2 for the deluxe 5. The larger delux 5 is about the same as the small Gecko.  If you have smaller hands and/or prefer a thinner neck, the Geckos probs aren't for you.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

Please elaborate on the string thru, tilt back headstock, and low B on reverse headstock stuff.

 

[bagman67]

IANAB (I Am Not A Bassist), but here's what I know:


1.  Some folks find there is a difference in how a string performs when it is run through the body, as opposed to anchored at the bridge itself.  You can surely find all sorts of fanatical arguments all over the place supporting either view, and probably fairly little empirical research, but there it is.


2.  Tilt-back headstocks ensure the strings break at an optimal angle to keep from being deadened at the nut or slipping out of the nut slots.  They also eliminate the need for string trees, which many (including yours truly) find to be a burden and an obstacle to consistent tuning.


3.  If you use a reverse headstock on a fiver, you will have a whole lot more B-string north of the nut than you would with a conventionally oriented headstock, which may cause tuning issues on an already-potentially-troublesome string.  Essentially, the way I understand the argument, for a string as massive as a low B, your tuning stability is compromised by having that much length between the nut and the tuning machine.  Other real bassists may have real-world experience to share as well.


Bagman

 

[misterfinn]

Stiffeners, laminates, etc.. but i think string enharmonicity IS a major part. The longer the scale, the fatter string you can have before it quits acting like a string and starts action like a rod. but you can also tune up to c or C# and get a lot crisper better behaved string without givig uo too much range

Right, but it is not necessary to have longer scale lengths to get a good B string. With proper construction, a 34" bass can rival a 35" or 36" bass.

anecdotally, my 34" musicman stingray 5 has a much tighter-feeling (and -sounding) b string than my 35" ibanez btb when strung with .135s. that's the primary reason i switched - the ibanez was much more versatile.

i have a standard 5 mim in queue - waiting on the body finish to be completed so i can assemble. it's a 34" scale, but the super bass construction + wenge neck + 1/4" ebony fretboard should be solid enough that it'll play like my stingray.

ymmv of course.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

I get all that, but tension relating to scale length is not altered by bridge type or headstock orientation, only a different scale length.

A longer string will give more elasticity, as there is more string to bend.  As long as the scale length is thesame, the lbs of pressure to attain a certain pitch don't change regardless of the extra amount of string on either side of the nut or bridge.

This guy has done the math

. http://www.premierguitar.com/articles/The_B_String_Extender_Myth

 

[AndyG]

I've built 2 Deluxe 5 Jazz basses, one with the Warmoth-style 3+2 angled headstock, which is also string-thru body, the other has a 5-inline Fender style headstock, with the bridge anchoring the strings.

Other than both basses having swamp ash bodies, there are too many différences between them to be able to do a proper tonal comparison.  I get the feeling that the string-thru body bass has a little more thump and sustain, but that could also be due to other factors of the build.

From a "feel" standpoint, they play pretty much the same ... perceived string tension is identical.

One caveat about string-thru on 5-string basses .... you NEED to buy super-long scale strings.  The low B has graduated windings, which will not make it past the nut (or just barely) if you run the strings through the body if you use regular length strings.

 

[drewfx]

Even with a 35" scale, the tension of a low B string is going to be less than the E string on a 34" scale. The question is what is acceptable.

Personally, for strings I prefer to use a 4 string set and purchase a .135 B string separately on my 34" scale 5 strings.

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

Breakover angle because of string thru and angled headstock are different issues altogether.  Regardless of the string degree angles over anchoring points, tension relating to scale length remains the same.