Fret dress question

[rainfall]

Hey guys, I'm a complete newbie in fret work, but I decided to give it a shot to level and dress the frets of one of my guitars.

I followed the steps of the video below for the most part, but I think that some frets aren't as smooth as I was expecting.

I used a 400 and 1000 grit sandpaper, then polished the frets with a Nomad Frine fret polisher ( https://www.guitarcenter.com/Music-Nomad/FRINE-Fret-Polishing-Kit-1500000037802.gc?cntry=us).

What should I do to make the frets smoother? More sandpaper time, more interim grits between the 400 and 1000 meshes, a different polish finisher...?

here is the video I used as a basis:

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBRude9l0Tg[/youtube]

 

[jdroost]

I am also learning as I go.
Just did a dress on an old guitar I am practicing on. I bought one of those ultra grit sand paper kits from amazon. Was 800 to 5000. Worked my way up and then hit it with some automotive super fine scratch remover. Came out like gloss.

 

[Cagey]

Couple things. First, you need more interim steps. Seems like that would take longer, but in the end it usually takes the same time. Each progressively finer grit is removing the scratches from the previous grit and making smaller scratches. Second, the finer the grit, the slower the cut. So, when you get to the high numbers, it takes longer to make a difference. Patience pays.

Also, keep in mind that even very fine scratches will be tangible, and you can even hear them when amplified and using fretting hand bends/vibrato techniques. So, when you're grinding/polishing you want to work perpendicular to the neck, not parallel to it. That is, back and forth instead of up and down. Makes the scratches run in the same direction as the string movement when doing bends/vibrato. Ideally, you don't want any scratches, but soft nickel/silver fretwire and the techniques often taught on YouTube will almost always leave you with some unless you get into very high grits and subsequent polishing stages.

 

[rainfall]

Couple things. First, you need more interim steps. Seems like that would take longer, but in the end it usually takes the same time. Each progressively finer grit is removing the scratches from the previous grit and making smaller scratches. Second, the finer the grit, the slower the cut. So, when you get to the high numbers, it takes longer to make a difference. Patience pays.

So, when you're grinding/polishing you want to work perpendicular to the neck, not parallel to it. That is, back and forth instead of up and down.

ahh I see. I just bought more sandpaper with more "steps".
Now I see where I messed up. With sandpaper I only grind parallel to the neck, not perpendicular. The video did parallel to help round the crown, but he later used steel wool in perpendicular to buff the frets. I didn't want to use steel wool so I used the fret polish in perpendicular. I guess the fret polish wasn't harsh enough to give the shine I was looking for.

I plan to do the perpendicular work this weekend and report back once I'm done.

 

[AirCap]

File along the length of the fretboard, sand across the frets to polish. This has been my method for 40 plus years. I use 3 grits of sandpaper, and for really picky clients - a final polish with white Meguiars. You will hear no complaints from my clients.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Another happy Meguiars user here, stuff works wonders to polish them up nicely.  I use polishing cloths with Meguiars once I reach 2000 grit, then 4000, then 8000, occasionally up to 12000.

 

[Hendrix]

I have made a video about it :

[youtube]a36SJ0vSjOY[/youtube]

Power tools Fret dressing Tutorial in 5 Easy Steps

 

[AirCap]

Hell, NO.

 

[TonyFlyingSquirrel]

Hendrix, please, please don't do that, it may mis-lead the less skilled into rushing into irreversible damage to their necks.

 

[rgand]

No offense intended here, but I need to chime in. I'm no expert at dressing fret ends but I have a lifetime of using power tools and would not use them like that on a neck of mine. They just take things down too fast.

 

[Cagey]

This strikes me as a pretty dangerous way to dress frets that could result in a lotta damage without much warning at all. I'd strongly recommend against trying this - on top of the damage potential, it clearly doesn't even save any time. Further, this dressing process appears to eat up a lotta fret real estate (although you could put that off to technique), effectively narrowing the neck playing surface. If I saw a fretboard dressed like this, I'd recommend refretting it, and I'd never use this technique to do it.

 

[AirCap]

For those of us who do it as a business - it's neat to have tools to save time, but there is no need to buy tools for jobs that can be done simpler and easier without power tool. That video only demonstrates one thing - OVERKILL.

 

[Hendrix]

I just feel that who do it as a business don’t like the user know it can be done in a labor save way to DIY , and may get less  business .

To made something into different levels of precision, is a basic know-how, no matter use power tool or hand tools.  if someone doesn't have  precision skills, very hard to made it with hand tools too . 

 

[Cagey]

I just feel that who do it as a business don’t like the user know it can be done in a labor save way to DIY , and may get less  business.

There are some out there who feel that way, but that mainly stems from insecurity. What people like to see is how things are done so they can judge whether or not those who actually do it are competent. In reality, sharing knowledge rarely reduces business, it improves it, and sometimes even improves the state of the art as ideas are exchanged and new ones are tried and either discarded or adopted.

 

[AirCap]

I just feel that who do it as a business don’t like the user know it can be done in a labor save way to DIY , and may get less  business .

To made something into different levels of precision, is a basic know-how, no matter use power tool or hand tools.  if someone doesn't have  precision skills, very hard to made it with hand tools too .

I take it English is your second language.... Right? Because your post makes very little sense.

And I'll tell you something, in 40 years I've learned it's easier to just GET TO WORK without resorting to all the tricks and tools when time is of the essence. All the time making setups for each tool, and changing over for the next operation is simply a waste of time.

I use no power tools for fret levels and can usually do a complete client pleasing job in less than 2 hours from cutting the strings off to restringing. When the shop wall is full of waiting guitars, and you need to make some money - you learn to focus on the essentials, and don't bother beating your pud like the guy in the video.

 

[Hendrix]

Language is another skill I have learned, if you got open minded, you can learn so many skills.
The smallest engineering design I did is my first job, working for a Seiko design mechanical watch.

The biggest work I have done is something over 20 meters diameter theme park structure. I will feel bored if doing the same things over so many years.

In my primary school age already learning how to read 2D technical drawing with section making something very accurate in scale to 3D model. Poor resources is not an obstacle, it's forcing you to find more out of the box created way to solve problems., DIY FILLER from chalk powder mix with paint etc.

I started crafting wooden scale aircraft model from this kind of drawing.

in secondary school I build my first guitar like this, with aluminium and copper pick guard cut / polished by hand.

All done by hand tools besides a electric hand drill, so I know very well how slow it is to use hand tools.

I have another video above 3D Print, CNC ,Lathe, Laser Cut Mix sculpture, How it Made

https://youtu.be/DRvSX7YYXJg

[youtube]DRvSX7YYXJg
[/youtube]

 

[Fat Pete]

Hendrix, you've shown several examples of your very impressive work and it's clear you have some serious skills - I'll happily admit to being envious of them.

But, your methods are radical and unless someone has spent as much time developing a high level of tool control as you have, recommending your approaches seems risky. I'm pretty sure if I got near a Warmoth neck with an angle grinder, it's usefulness and value would quickly be substantially altered!

So the negative responses to your video guides are understandable, surely - maybe a title like '5 steps which are only easy if you've spent a lifetime honing your abilities, but are reckless otherwise'?

Take it as a compliment.

 

[Rick]

I love it.  If I had the dexterity I'd use the dermal and angle iron.  I don't have such skills, I'd ruin the neck in New York minute.  I wouldn't recommend this for the average bear.  I know a guy that uses all kinds of power tools on clock repair so this not far fetched, different strokes as they say

 

[Hendrix]

I think some may only looked at the thumbnail as judged books by it’s covers.

The Angle Grinder is only for using as final stages polishing with Buffing Pads, how to avoid overhead issues that maybe happen also has been addressed in video .

If you not comfortable using angle grinder , my second video also shows how to use shank wool polishing head for dremel rotary tool on polishing step if you find Angle Grinder not easy to control , it surely safer and easier on smaller areas.

 

[rainfall]

Thanks all for the replies. I bought a set of 1500-7000 sandpaper, but only used 1000, 1500 and 2000 to re-sand the frets. I instantly saw that the frets started to get better. I then finished it off with a rotating pad and a "perfect-it" by 3m. My local luthier is very reputable and recommended this finishing. It took me a bit of work to take the excess out, but I liked the final result. I'll post pics when I can. Thanks all!  :headbanging: