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Floyd Rose bridge screws super "loose" in the inserts

vikingred

Hero Member
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Again, I have no idea if this is normal or an issue or not.  This is my first build.  So I got the Warmoth Original Floyd Rose, and had them install the bridge screw inserts.  Today, when I screwed them in, they are very loose.  "Rattly" loose.  No matter what height they are (even if I screw them all the way in which obviously isn't going to work) they are rattly, like way loose.  I must be missing something here.  Thank you for your patience.
 
Tough to say. One man's "rattly loose" is another man's "snug", but neither term is objective enough to go by. I just put a OFR on a VIP, and I thought the mounting post threads were fairly fine. You could thread them in by hand without trouble, but they didn't seem loose at all. I wonder if you somehow got some metric bushings and SAE posts, or vice-versa. I wouldn't expect them to thread at all if that were the case, but if they were close enough in size they might turn in and be unusually loose.
 
I doubt there's a mix up between metric and standard. It's possible but doubtful, neither will fit with each other more than a thread or two, unless one is quite smaller than the other. It's more possible that the parts were made at a point as the threading dies were wearing down. Or the stud insert or the posts are of different quality. Cheap junk that comes from overseas is just that, junk. But for the most part the hardware Warmoth sells isn't junk.
 
DangerousR6 said:
I doubt there's a mix up between metric and standard. It's possible but doubtful, neither will fit with each other more than a thread or two, unless one is quite smaller than the other. It's more possible that the parts were made at a point as the threading dies were wearing down. Or the stud insert or the posts are of different quality. Cheap junk that comes from overseas is just that, junk. But for the most part the hardware Warmoth sells isn't junk.

Did you see the video?  I guess I'm going to have to order new inserts and screws directly from FR.  Ah, well.  Wonder how difficult it will be to remove the old inserts. 
 
Cagey said:
Well, in any event, those definitely look too loose.

Yeah.  I've googled around and found it's a thing.  Some people say "use plumber's tape, and it works great".  Yikes.  I ordered a new set from StewMac for $4.58, we'll see how that goes and what Warmoth says.  They might say "put your big boy DIY pants on and deal with it, son".  Heh.  We'll work it out.  What a weekend.  Made a lot of progress.
 
Ah, well. Things go wrong, and even little things can set you back for days or longer. Long as you're learning stuff, you're making progress.
 
Cagey said:
Ah, well. Things go wrong, and even little things can set you back for days or longer. Long as you're learning stuff, you're making progress.

True.  I've learned a lot already.  Just ordered a second set of inserts/screws directly from FR dot com.  Got another FR build coming so hopefully I'll be ready.  What's that thing in your sig Cagey, slow down to speed up?  One more shot of warm lacquer on that headstock then it's lights out and pause on the build for a week.  Thanks for all the help, folks.
 
I am curious to see what Warmoth says and to see what your new inserts will be like.  Obviously is they are loose by design there is no need to pull your current studs.

I have guitars with multiple floyds, all ORIGINAL floyd rose systems.  From what I recall there was always some play in the inserts.  What amount I cannot tell you.

I will check it out once I change some strings.
 
This is why Warmoth would be advised to do what the luxury goods companies I have sold for over the years do. QC the hell out of everything. Even though you may only make one or two specific things, everything you sell will reflect on your company.

I worked for a company that made stain glass windows to order but they also sold all kinds of widow related s!@#. Everything from hinges to drapes to window sills. We QCed everything no matter how simple it was. Measured every single sill--with a micrometer for thickness--to make sure it was as labeled. Sent every so many sills to a local foundry to be x-rayed for micro-fractures and other structural weaknesses.

It increased operations costs a bit but in the 5 years I was there we never, not once, had anyone return anything or even complain about anything we sold. I know, because I was the guy they were told to call.
 
I'd be more comfy with aluminum foil over plumber's tape.  At least it's still metal-on-metal.
 
I'm inclined to think that a few wraps of teflon tape would be just the thing there. If you should choose to pull the bushings however, I can't recommend this little apparatus highly enough:

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Maintenance/Knob_and_Bushing_Puller.html
Knob_and_Bushing_Puller.jpg


It's a bit pricey, but man is it the right tool for the job. The alternative is a claw hammer...
 
Verne Bunsen said:
I'm inclined to think that a few wraps of teflon tape would be just the thing there. If you should choose to pull the bushings however, I can't recommend this little apparatus highly enough:

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Maintenance/Knob_and_Bushing_Puller.html

It's a bit pricey, but man is it the right tool for the job. The alternative is a claw hammer...

Got me one.  Works very well for studs and stubborn volume knobs.
 
Verne Bunsen said:
...The alternative is a claw hammer...

Whoa there, Ted Bundy!

Might I also recommend the...knob puller? 

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Maintenance/P-51_Knob_Puller.html

:toothy12: :toothy12: :toothy12:
 
fdesalvo said:
Verne Bunsen said:
...The alternative is a claw hammer...

Whoa there, Ted Bundy!

Might I also recommend the...knob puller? 

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Maintenance/P-51_Knob_Puller.html

:toothy12: :toothy12: :toothy12:

I've got that one too, in fact the first review you see there (VB) is me! It's great on knobs, but I don't think it'd do much for you on a bushing extraction. The bushing puller I linked to is the only thing I've ever used for that purpose, so admittedly my frame of reference is narrow, but the other approaches I've seen are all right in line with the Ted Bundy reference, haha!
 
Verne Bunsen said:
fdesalvo said:
Verne Bunsen said:
...The alternative is a claw hammer...

Whoa there, Ted Bundy!

Might I also recommend the...knob puller? 

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Maintenance/P-51_Knob_Puller.html

:toothy12: :toothy12: :toothy12:

I've got that one too, in fact the first review you see there (VB) is me! It's great on knobs, but I don't think it'd do much for you on a bushing extraction. The bushing puller I linked to is the only thing I've ever used for that purpose, so admittedly my frame of reference is narow, but the other approaches I've seen are all right in line with the Ted Bundy reference, haha!

LMAO!  I almost burst out laughing at my desk!

Yeah, I know it's not the right tool, but once I saw the name, my inner juvenile had to be satiated!  Now, I'm off to scour the interwebs for a "bush extractor".
 
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