Flame maple carved top soloist custom DIY finish with roasted flame maple neck

[damian]

Happens all the time. It's called "veneer", and you can buy it in sheets of various sizes, some even with adhesive already applied. These guys sell bigger lots of it, while you can get smaller pieces that are probably more suitable for what you want to do here.

Thanks for the info! Do you know what kind of glue should be used for veneering?

 

[Cagey]

Contact cement is the most common, but there are others. Oddly enough, while veneer is just very thin wood, wood glues are rarely used. Probably has something to do with moisture content. There's an article with suggestions as to what to use and when/how here if you're interested.

 

[docteurseb]

I tried putting a veneer on a Regal headstock couple years ago and failed miserably, several times.

I could never get a clean edge/corner, it'd chip/crack when trying to cut it flush.
Not sure what exactly went wrong (it wasn't my first time applying a veneer) but:
  - that headstock shape had very sharp corners, so it's very easy to chip the veneer there.
  - the contact cement was one of those 'green/environment-friendly' alternatives (it's CA so that's what I found back then at Woodcraft) that didn't stick near as well as real contact cement.


In hindsight:
- I should have practiced on scrap wood cut to a similar shape as the headstock, with a few holes drilled too to see how cleanly the veneer could be cut once applied.
- I should have avoided the 'green' water-based contact cement: veneer + water = pretzel

So, practice on scrap wood first ;-)

 

[damian]

I tried putting a veneer on a Regal headstock couple years ago and failed miserably, several times.

I could never get a clean edge/corner, it'd chip/crack when trying to cut it flush.
Not sure what exactly went wrong (it wasn't my first time applying a veneer) but:
  - that headstock shape had very sharp corners, so it's very easy to chip the veneer there.
  - the contact cement was one of those 'green/environment-friendly' alternatives (it's CA so that's what I found back then at Woodcraft) that didn't stick near as well as real contact cement.


In hindsight:
- I should have practiced on scrap wood cut to a similar shape as the headstock, with a few holes drilled too to see how cleanly the veneer could be cut once applied.
- I should have avoided the 'green' water-based contact cement: veneer + water = pretzel

So, practice on scrap wood first ;-)

Thanks for the advice! I'm going to spend some time watching some videos of the different techniques.

 

[fdesalvo]

That's not only gorgeous, but the finest finish I've seen from a wipe on application.  I will avoid thee at the next GoM thread with great expectations of you taking the cake!  That's beautiful.

Contact cement will work, as will Titebond. Used it extensively when refinishing antique furniture.  It will bond stronger than the wood it's joining, so there's no chance of a failed job provided the surfaces were prepped.  The bonus is you will find uses for it on future builds and around the house, so it won't go to waste.

 

[damian]

That's not only gorgeous, but the finest finish I've seen from a wipe on application.  I will avoid thee at the next GoM thread with great expectations of you taking the cake!  That's beautiful.

Contact cement will work, as will Titebond. Used it extensively when refinishing antique furniture.  It will bond stronger than the wood it's joining, so there's no chance of a failed job provided the surfaces were prepped.  The bonus is you will find uses for it on future builds and around the house, so it won't go to waste.

Well, thanks for the kind words but I messed up and started all over again.
I'm not doing the Northern Lights finish anymore ( it's too much work). I'm attaching photos of how it looks today.

 

[bagman67]

Damn, son, that's dead sexy.

 

[rgand]

Clear on that would be amazing.

 

[fdesalvo]

Not sure what you messed up, but let me acknowledge the huge haires it takes to redo that.