We seem to get people in here all the time asking the same questions again and again. I thought I'd put together an FAQ. Please offer opinions and suggestions. Maybe we can come up with something for the "please read before posting" section. I don't know all of this from personal experience... some of it is consensus or opinion from the board.
Is it hard to build a Warmoth?
No. If you can use a hand drill and a screwdriver, you can do it. Go slow. Don't use power screwdrivers or overtighten any screws. Drill correctly-sized pilot holes for screws.
If you can't handle that you can pay a luthier to assemble it. You're looking at a couple hundred bucks.
Unless you know what you're doing and can do it yourself, you should probably take your guitar to a luthier or guitar tech to get a setup and fret level. It will make a big difference in playability. I'd say $50 for a setup and $100 for a fret level is reasonable.
I have 2 long and 2 short screws for my contoured heel guitar. Which goes where?
The long screws go in the 2 holes closest to the bridge; the short ones go in the 2 holes closest to the nut.
My neck is too wide for the neck pocket.
You may need to sand the sides of the neck pocket a little, especially if there's finish in there. Don't sand the neck. If it's WAY out of whack and won't fit at all, ever, call Warmoth.
Something is wrong with my new neck/body. Should I drill/sand/paint/glue/saw/burn/modify it in any way?
No, you should call Warmoth. There will be plenty of time to void your warranty later if you want.
Should I shield my Warmoth?
Doesn't matter. It can't hurt but it doesn't help much. (I have 2 shielded, one unshielded, and none of them are any noisier than the others.)
Do set necks have better sustain than bolt-on necks?
No. (That's the board consensus. Personally I don't know one way or the other, but my bolt-ons have plenty of sustain, so I don't really care.)
Do Warmoth poly finishes wreck your tone?
No. Many many people here have guitars with Warmoth poly finishes and they all sound great.
Tung oil vs. Tru-Oil... discuss.
Tung oil is actually oil from tung nuts. Tru-Oil is not oil at all; it's a varnish. Tru-Oil dries much faster. Tung oil is not sticky like Tru-Oil. Tung oil is completely non-toxic; Tru-Oil has an impressive warning label. Tung oil smells good. They both look good. Tru-Oil is considered a "hard finish" for Warmoth necks; tung oil is not.
Do TonePros TOM bridges really have better sustain?
Probably not. The consensus is that the main advantage of the TonePros bridge is that it doesn't fall off when you change the strings.
Can Warmoth do neck-through guitars?
Nope.
Can I make a set-neck Warmoth by gluing a neck to a body?
Nope.
Who are the Warmoth employees on the board?
Gregg, wyliee (aka Eric), and TonyFlyingSquirrel.
Hi, this is my first post. Does anybody want to buy a used X? Anyone willing to trade a Y for it?
Hi! No. No.
ccasion14:
Do you know any good luthiers in the East Bumblefrick area?
Nope, sorry. Google is your friend.
Should I buy a raw exotic neck?
Yes. Nobody ever says "This raw exotic neck is nice, but I sure wish I'd gone with a finished maple neck."
I'm buying a raw exotic neck. Should I have it finished?
Hell no. Finishing any wood that doesn't need it is a crime against humanity!
Where can I try out a neck similar to the X contour?
Standard thin: American Standard Stratocaster
Wizard: Ibanez RG
Boatneck/Fatback: Fender '59 Telecaster reissue
SRV: SRV signature Strat
Clapton: Clapton signature Stat (NOTE: the W contour is sharper than the Fender one)
Wolfgang: Between SRV and standard thin
'59 roundback: PRS McCarty, PRS SE
(thanks, tfarny)
Isn't X a great guitarist?
Not as good as Y!
Is it hard to build a Warmoth?
No. If you can use a hand drill and a screwdriver, you can do it. Go slow. Don't use power screwdrivers or overtighten any screws. Drill correctly-sized pilot holes for screws.
If you can't handle that you can pay a luthier to assemble it. You're looking at a couple hundred bucks.
Unless you know what you're doing and can do it yourself, you should probably take your guitar to a luthier or guitar tech to get a setup and fret level. It will make a big difference in playability. I'd say $50 for a setup and $100 for a fret level is reasonable.
I have 2 long and 2 short screws for my contoured heel guitar. Which goes where?
The long screws go in the 2 holes closest to the bridge; the short ones go in the 2 holes closest to the nut.
My neck is too wide for the neck pocket.
You may need to sand the sides of the neck pocket a little, especially if there's finish in there. Don't sand the neck. If it's WAY out of whack and won't fit at all, ever, call Warmoth.
Something is wrong with my new neck/body. Should I drill/sand/paint/glue/saw/burn/modify it in any way?
No, you should call Warmoth. There will be plenty of time to void your warranty later if you want.
Should I shield my Warmoth?
Doesn't matter. It can't hurt but it doesn't help much. (I have 2 shielded, one unshielded, and none of them are any noisier than the others.)
Do set necks have better sustain than bolt-on necks?
No. (That's the board consensus. Personally I don't know one way or the other, but my bolt-ons have plenty of sustain, so I don't really care.)
Do Warmoth poly finishes wreck your tone?
No. Many many people here have guitars with Warmoth poly finishes and they all sound great.
Tung oil vs. Tru-Oil... discuss.
Tung oil is actually oil from tung nuts. Tru-Oil is not oil at all; it's a varnish. Tru-Oil dries much faster. Tung oil is not sticky like Tru-Oil. Tung oil is completely non-toxic; Tru-Oil has an impressive warning label. Tung oil smells good. They both look good. Tru-Oil is considered a "hard finish" for Warmoth necks; tung oil is not.
Do TonePros TOM bridges really have better sustain?
Probably not. The consensus is that the main advantage of the TonePros bridge is that it doesn't fall off when you change the strings.
Can Warmoth do neck-through guitars?
Nope.
Can I make a set-neck Warmoth by gluing a neck to a body?
Nope.
Who are the Warmoth employees on the board?
Gregg, wyliee (aka Eric), and TonyFlyingSquirrel.
Hi, this is my first post. Does anybody want to buy a used X? Anyone willing to trade a Y for it?
Hi! No. No.
ccasion14:Do you know any good luthiers in the East Bumblefrick area?
Nope, sorry. Google is your friend.
Should I buy a raw exotic neck?
Yes. Nobody ever says "This raw exotic neck is nice, but I sure wish I'd gone with a finished maple neck."
I'm buying a raw exotic neck. Should I have it finished?
Hell no. Finishing any wood that doesn't need it is a crime against humanity!
Where can I try out a neck similar to the X contour?
Standard thin: American Standard Stratocaster
Wizard: Ibanez RG
Boatneck/Fatback: Fender '59 Telecaster reissue
SRV: SRV signature Strat
Clapton: Clapton signature Stat (NOTE: the W contour is sharper than the Fender one)
Wolfgang: Between SRV and standard thin
'59 roundback: PRS McCarty, PRS SE
(thanks, tfarny)
Isn't X a great guitarist?
Not as good as Y!
