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First humbucker...

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whyachi

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I got my cheapo soapbar off the 'bay and I'm confused on how to wire it up. I'm running it straight to the jack to stay under $100, but it has four wires coming off of it. The black ground in a shielded wire, then red / white / blue wires. If it came with a manual, it was a quarter-sized piece of paper with some Chinese on it. What do I run to where? I figured I'd have a hot, a ground and a second ground running to the bridge and that's it..
 
Do you have any idea as to the pickup's pedigree? I mean, is it supposed to be "like" a Semour Duncan or DiMarzio or Gibson, etc.? Different manufacturers use different color codes for the start/finish winding leads. Depending on who they're emulating makes a TON of difference in how you wire it.
 
two of your three will get twisted/soldered together, the third will be hot.
i imagine there is a way with a multimeter to determine which is which?

before soldering you can try the screwdriver method and test the wires with something easy like electrical tape.
put the white & blue together, put the red on the jack (obviously the ground is always ground) plug into an amp, and gently tap the screwdriver on the pickup's pole piece.
if you heard thunking, you've got sound.  i'm not well versed in coil splittable humbuckers, so you might have to check each combination until you get the loudest sound?

that should work in a pinch, i'm guessing someone else has more scientific ways to get what you want.
 
@Cagey - The information I have on the thing is here, from the eBay page,
# Brand New
# sealed to cancel hum
# Wide mid range and bright tone
# Cover: Plastic
# Cable: 4 Conduct with shield
# Magnet: Ceramic
# Output Resistance: 11.7 K
# The Size:9cm(L)*3.5cm(W)*2.2cm(H)
As far as the style, just, "Noiseless Good Balance Soap Bar 4 String Bass Pickup."

@Autobat - There are no exposed polepieces, it's not MM style. As far as being splittable, not sure, I don't have much information on it. The thing isn't even square at the corners, its kind of mushed in sideways so cutting the slot has been a pain.
 
If they brought out 4 wires, then it's definitely splittable. Two of those wires are from one coil, and two are from the other. By connecting the finish of one coil to the start of the other, you'll create a humbucker. The start of the first coil will be your "hot", and the finish of the other will be your "ground". By grounding the start/finish connection in the center, you'll effectively short out the second coil, which would make it into a single coil.
 
So do I just attach all four of them to the jack like one big hot wire?
 
What you need will be like pictured, your colors (probably) are different.

Ground goes to ground. Two will be soldered together, the last single will go to the Hot (jack)
Since I don't know which wires are which on your model, it may take trial and error or a multimeter to know exactly what's going on.
 
this post says it a lot better than I could
http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/the-sevenstring-org-workbench/75867-tech-determine-the-color-codes-for-your-pickup.html#post1343163
 
That post is based on my ability to tap polepieces with a screwdriver. I have a completely sealed, enclosed soapbar.
 
you said the black wire is also shielded? plus 3 more wires, is that to say there are 5 conductors? a pic would be helpful i can explain how to check it with a multi meter once i figure this out.
 
I can't get my phone camera to focus on it well enough to show you. I did peel back the outside shrink wrap that is binding them all together and found out its a blue one, a black ground, and the red and white wires are twisted around each other. They're all wrapped together and coming right out the middle of the pickup, so its not like they're coming from somewhere helpful.
 
the red & white twisted around each hints to me that those are the two to stuff together, and the blue would be hot.
not saying it's right, but it hints at that.

sorry about forgetting there aren't open poles, this time i'm the knucklehead.
 
So the educated guess at the moment is that I solder the red and white together at the end, don't attach it to anything, and use the blue and black as my normal hot and ground.

I've got a lot more work to do before I'm at that point, I'm just trying to get everything in order.
 
Maybe, if all else fails, grab some small alligator clips and attach the wires to thsoe and do clip on tests on the various combinations of the wires til you get the sound working? Then solder it in.  :icon_scratch:
 
that's what I would think, if you have some alligator clips, you might wanna use that in lieu of soldering the red & white, just in case they aren't the two you wanted.
this is a cheap pup we're talking about :)
or just twist them together and throw on electrical tape.
you can solder later once you're sure.
 
well black is not always ground, it can just as easily be hot, also there are 4 correct ways you can wire a humbucker with two coils in series in phase. and 2 more for parallel in phase. the number is reduced for a second pickup that needs to go in phase with the fist one.

so first determine if there is a sheilding conductor;

    is there foil or a braid in the main sheath?

        if yes check the resistance from the sheild to each of the conductors, if any conductor has a resistance reading in the single digit ohms range possibly zero the will be the ground.

                if there is no continuity from the shield to any conductor then any conductor can be ground. 

        if there is no shielding any conductor may be the ground as far as we know.

    is any part of the pickup removable, or is there any visable metal parts? i know the poles are hidden but is there maybe a brass backing plate?

          if there are metal parts check for resistance from the metal part to each conductor.
               
              if the circuit is open to all of the conductors then any conductor can be ground

next you can determine which wires go to each coil;

    starting with lets say the ground wire if there is one, if there is not a specific wire that must be the ground choose one as the ground, check the resistance to each other wire, if you know the advertise dc resistance then you are looking for about half that, it can be as low as 3000 ohms as as high as 10000 ohms or more for some weird designs, only one wire should give any reading the others should show an open circuit. these two wires go to the same coil, once you have found this presumably the other two wires go to the other coil.

if the red and white wires do infact go to different coils the fact that they are twisted may be a clue that they form the series link for the correct phasing;

    to test the phasing you will need to either; A) listen carefully, or B) test it.

          the best way i can think of to test it would be to hook one coil to the other in series and generate a current in the wires, without sophisticated equipment you can do this by running a power tool like a battery drill in close proximity to the pickup and measure the output. set the multi meter to AC and set it to the millivolts range, the pickup to powertool placement should be precice and repeatable however you plan to do that. run the power tool and record the voltage reading, switch the wires to one coil and repeat the test, the  greater voltage rating should be the the correctly phased wiring. remember the pickup and power tool should not be disturbed between switching the wires.

          you can also try plugging into an amp and listening for tone and volume changes between the two possible choices.

              if the instrument is assembled the combination that give more oomph is in phase, out of phase sounds thiner and loses output.

              if it is not assembled and you still want to use the amp you can run a battery drill near the pickups for sound, i dont know if a difference in tonality would be heard with a sound like a drill makes so you'll have to rely on your perception of whats louder. for this placement and distace of the drill and pickup is crucial.
 
I went to wire the thing up tonight.. and ran into more fun.

So apparently, its four wires + a grounded shield. I'd missed the yellow wire as it had ended an inch up inside the shielding instead of poking out the end.

Using alligator clips I've tried R+B and W+Y, R+W and Y+B, W+B and R+Y, on the hot and twisted together for each. No matter which combo of wires I've tried, the thing hums like mad as soon as I get a cable plugged in.

I've got the outer shielding stuff twisted up and on the ground lug and the ground wire from the bridge is coming in at 0ohms so that line is good.


On this drawing, the black wire would be the twisted shielding from inside.. Coax, right? That stuff is the ground?
 
You need to identify which wires are which, at least to some degree. If you've still got the multimeter, set it to the x10 resistance scale.

You've got 4 wires to be concerned about at this point - red, blue, white and yellow. Disregard the ground/shield for the moment.

Connect one lead of your meter to the red wire, then touch each of the other three wires one at a time. Only one should get any reaction from the meter. Now, those two leads are one coil, the two leads that are left are the other.

Connect one lead from one coil to one lead from the other. The two leads that are left are going to be your hot and ground. Run it into an amp and see if it hums. If it doesn't, you're done. If it does, reverse the leads from one of the coils. See if it hums. Keep in mind that both ways may hum, but one configuration will hum louder than the other. You want the one that hums least. Once the shield is connected to whichever lead you decided was going to be ground, the alligator clips are gone, solder/insulate everything up, and call it a love story. It may have hummed before with everything laid out, but it should be quiet now.

 
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